Wheel vibration w/22" aftermarket wheels & tires

themann25 · July 11, 2014

I have a 2014 1500 Silverado wt and I upgraded to aftermarket 22 inch wheels and gained an intermittent vibration at 70+. I also had a vibration with another set of 22s but not with stock. I had them rebalanced and road force balanced and still a vibrate. I also removed the brass clips. What should I do?

Silverado-Hareek · July 11, 2014

So the truck was fine when it was stock, but you developed a vibration after swapping the rims and tires for aftermarket rims and tires?

themann25 · July 11, 2014

So the truck was fine when it was stock, but you developed a vibration after swapping the rims and tires for aftermarket rims and tires?

Correct

20L8TSierra24 · July 11, 2014

Time to put the stock wheels back on or exchange them for another set

fondupot · July 11, 2014

100% the problem is the aftermarket 22" wheels. Either the shop doesn't know how to balance them correctly, or they are crapola wheels.

themann25 · July 11, 2014

Why would wheels do that intermittently over 70 tho?

Silverado-Hareek · July 11, 2014

Why would wheels do that intermittently over 70 tho?

Speed amplifies an improperly balanced wheel/tire. The fact that your truck rode fine when it was stock further confirms it's your new wheels and tires. I would go back to the place that balanced them and let them know what's up. It could be something as simple as a wheel weight fell off and they do in fact know how to properly balance a tire. The good news is it's not your truck and it shouldn't cost you a dime more at this point because you didn't get what you paid for and they owe it to you to make it right.

EDIT: Never mind I just saw you said intermittently. That I'm not sure about but again the fact that your truck rode fine when it was stock leads me to believe it's still your new wheels/tires that are the problem, not your truck.

themann25 · July 11, 2014

Speed amplifies an improperly balanced wheel/tire. The fact that your truck rode fine when it was stock further confirms it's your new wheels and tires. I would go back to the place that balanced them and let them know what's up. It could be something as simple as a wheel weight fell off and they do in fact know how to properly balance a tire. The good news is it's not your truck and it shouldn't cost you a dime more at this point because you didn't get what you paid for and they owe it to you to make it right.

EDIT: Never mind I just saw you said intermittently. That I'm not sure about but again the fact that your truck rode fine when it was stock leads me to believe it's still your new wheels/tires that are the problem, not your truck.

I fear that it's the vibrate issues with these trucks amplified with bigger wheels and the stock 17s hide it

Also I had a second set of 22s that did the exact same thing

fondupot · July 11, 2014

But the reason you might only feel the vibration is due to harmonic balancing. The wheel/tire combo is out of balance, but after a certain amount of revolutions they get into balance for a short period of time.

But seriously. If it rode fine with the stock tires and wheels then there is something going on with the aftermarket ones. Have the shop that installed them break down all the tires off the rims, remount, rebalanced. reinstall. Could be bad tire as well.

eb575757 · August 22, 2014

I have a 2014 silverado Z71 crew cab, I have a shake from the rear end. Everything in the cab shakes between 35 to 45 and then again around 70. Feels like the seat is a massaging seat. I bought a new set of rims and used the stock tires, 17 inch. Still had shake even after 2 rebalancing. I then bought new 22's and have same shake but worse. Took to dealership, advised had three seperate set of rims and two different set of tires, two different shop balancing machines, same shake. Dealer technician noticed the shake also. Dealer had my truck from Thursday thru Monday and gave me another 2014 Silverado 4x4 to drive, same shake. When i picked mine back up they told me is was the aftermarket rims and tires, nothing they could do for me. I seen other blogs where they said GM knows about the problem, has anyone else heard if GM is working on a fix?

fondupot · August 22, 2014

I have a 2014 silverado Z71 crew cab, I have a shake from the rear end. Everything in the cab shakes between 35 to 45 and then again around 70. Feels like the seat is a massaging seat. I bought a new set of rims and used the stock tires, 17 inch. Still had shake even after 2 rebalancing. I then bought new 22's and have same shake but worse. Took to dealership, advised had three seperate set of rims and two different set of tires, two different shop balancing machines, same shake. Dealer technician noticed the shake also. Dealer had my truck from Thursday thru Monday and gave me another 2014 Silverado 4x4 to drive, same shake. When i picked mine back up they told me is was the aftermarket rims and tires, nothing they could do for me. I seen other blogs where they said GM knows about the problem, has anyone else heard if GM is working on a fix?

Check out this thread. Looks like you're having the dreaded shake and vibration issues.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153186-shake-or-vibration-issues/

wilks3 · August 28, 2014

Are the new wheels hub centric? I'll bet they are not and there is your problem. Here is a good explanation.

There are two distinct types of wheels found on today's cars and light trucks. There are Hub Centric wheels and there are Lug Centric wheels.

The most common wheels are Hub Centric in design. The center hole of these wheels is the actual center bore of the wheel. These wheels can be properly mounted and accurately balanced using the standard cone system supplied with most off car computer balancers.

Many of today's aftermarket wheels are Lug Centric in design. The center hole of a Lug Centric wheel is not the true center. These wheels cannot be properly mounted and accurately balanced using the normal cone mounting system that came with your wheel balancer.

Many Lug Centric wheels may appear to be mounted correctly with the center cone system, but they cannot be accurately balanced. The wheel balancer will continue to either "chase weights" or the wheel will show signs of imbalance when re-mounted on the vehicle.

To ensure an accurate balance, Lug Centric wheels must be mounted on the balancer through their lug bolt pattern. Lug Centric wheels, when mounted on the vehicle, are centered by the torque of the lug bolts and not the center bore of the wheel.

The only way to properly balance Lug Centric is through their lug bolt pattern. This style wheel must be mounted to the computer balancer in the same manner as it is mounted on the vehicle...through the lug bolt pattern.

Lug centric mounting on the wheel balancer mimics the way the wheel is mounted to the vehicle.

If you are balancing Lug Centric wheels, you must use the Atlas® Universal Adapter. The standard cone system will not work properly.

JaronM3 · August 28, 2014

I had this issue on my M3 when I put 20s on it. Turned out I had a bent wheel. All my wheels balanced fine, but one wheel was slightly bent from a pot hole.

thewhitestallion · August 29, 2014

Are the new wheels hub centric? I'll bet they are not and there is your problem. Here is a good explanation.

There are two distinct types of wheels found on today's cars and light trucks. There are Hub Centric wheels and there are Lug Centric wheels.

The most common wheels are Hub Centric in design. The center hole of these wheels is the actual center bore of the wheel. These wheels can be properly mounted and accurately balanced using the standard cone system supplied with most off car computer balancers.

Many of today's aftermarket wheels are Lug Centric in design. The center hole of a Lug Centric wheel is not the true center. These wheels cannot be properly mounted and accurately balanced using the normal cone mounting system that came with your wheel balancer.

Many Lug Centric wheels may appear to be mounted correctly with the center cone system, but they cannot be accurately balanced. The wheel balancer will continue to either "chase weights" or the wheel will show signs of imbalance when re-mounted on the vehicle.

To ensure an accurate balance, Lug Centric wheels must be mounted on the balancer through their lug bolt pattern. Lug Centric wheels, when mounted on the vehicle, are centered by the torque of the lug bolts and not the center bore of the wheel.

The only way to properly balance Lug Centric is through their lug bolt pattern. This style wheel must be mounted to the computer balancer in the same manner as it is mounted on the vehicle...through the lug bolt pattern.

Lug centric mounting on the wheel balancer mimics the way the wheel is mounted to the vehicle.

If you are balancing Lug Centric wheels, you must use the Atlas® Universal Adapter. The standard cone system will not work properly.

I can almost guarantee this ^^^^^^^ is your prob. worked at discount tire for 5+ years and this is how my manager made us balance every single wheel. using the cones made it a little easier and faster to balance but using what we called the "fingers" to balance saved us time if the customer had to come back b/c they were getting vibrations.

I would suggest trying this and if they don't have them then either return those wheels and tires and get something of better quality or go somewhere else that actually knows what they are doing. GL

stamgd1909 · August 29, 2014

My new tires also wobbled bad over 40, the first place I took them to for mount and balance didn't know what they were doing. I took them to a 4x4 shop and they got them almost perfect. I found out I had a bad rear tire...that was my problem. They could only balance it to 49 when road force balancing. It was at 96 when they first got it...