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Posted (edited)

20sierra14 - I couldn't find any specifics about the mics in the data I have, probably captured in a Service Manual (which is not scheduled to be released until the Spring). Since I don't have access to a mic, see if you can get the following information from yours.

 

O ring; post 498, page 34, picture 2

-- What is the depth of the O ring (front to back)?

-- Is the O ring hard or soft?

-- Can the O ring be removed?

-- What is the circumference of the O ring outer edge and inner edge? (doesn't look bigger than a dime, use for reference)

-- What is the material of the O ring?

Edited by The Zip
Posted

Tobek - "But am reluctant to remove the grills, don't want to break them. So yesterday I placed two pieces of thick masking tape over each of the three Mic's"

 

Placing tape over the grills will leave an air gap and open air around the microphone...this will create resonance which you do not want (and further you changed the volume around the microphones. The cotton ball method damps the resonance which you do want.

 

I have two, driven three, and a third on the way. It strikes me for me to escape the problem others are having, I should be entering the lottery. That brings up a question...have any of you, who have this buffeting/pressure problem had the GM Underbody Shield installed? I haven't driven a Yukon without one. I haven't driven a Yukon with the buffeting problem.

Posted (edited)

What is the GM Underbody Shield? A dealer installed option? What exactly is it.

 

From the GM website, looks like a shield at the back of the vehicle only.

 

Very, very, very interesting observation, Anon.

 

BTW, Anon, sound like you have your own fleet going there! What's up with that?

Edited by Wrench589
Posted (edited)

Anon2015 comment, "...an air gap and open air around the microphone", is the space I have been referring to as the mic well. Tape without cotton will probably make the pressure or buffeting stronger, "enhanced" could even be a good word here. If you do the tape and cotton method it should probably be as 20sierra14 suggest to at least achieve his results.

 

If the tires are not the cause of the S/V, the Underbody Shield (UBS), meant to protect from rocks and other debris getting into the engine bay, could also be performing an unexpected double-duty and locking down some components otherwise that could be moving. Offroaders may refer to the UBS as a form of a "skid plate".

 

If you are experiencing S/V, next time you are in for a service call, talk with the dealer and see what they are willing to do. The dealer may allow you to test drive a UBS or sell you one at a discounted price. Regular price is around 300 bucks dealer installed, Ebay has this OEM part for 54 bucks, free shipping. This is an extremely easy part to install with a basic socket wrench. If I was having this problem, the UBS would have already been in the mail.

Edited by The Zip
Posted

The more research I do, the more I am starting to believe the mics are doing there job. But, because of something in the GM design concept (roof, engine, headliner), it appears to be irritating the mics (and us). This is causing customers to address the mic "effect" because no one can isolate the GM "cause".

 

Based on work I did on the Enhanced Sound thread, I went from 100% Bose mic problem to XM being 100% my problem, thats why I say I "98% believe" the mics are doing their job.

 

BTW, it is GM's responsibility to figure the cause, customers assuming this responsibility will only be spinning your wheels.

Posted

2015 Suburban in shop for the wind tunnel noise.....

 

I have had 6 different Yukon xl/Suburban since 1997. and loved most of them.

 

I currently have my 2015 Suburban LTZ in the shop for the Wind tunnel problem.

 

My family and I get headaches from this when driving for a period of time. It's frustrating. Again it to feels like a single window is down and the pressure is not equalizing.

When is GM going to acknowledge this problem? (or have they?) I have a fleet of GM in my service truck and My 2001 Sierra glides down the road better than this LTZ. I understand it's a truck (my Suburban) but it should just go smoothly down the road and it doesn't.

It has been in the shop since 1/14. They say they are going to refill the gaps in the roof rails with an new epoxy/insulation to see if it fixes the problem.

It seems I'm the guinea pig for this dealer which has never done this before. Now a $70,000 vehicle ( which I am paying for and not using) which is only 21/2 months old is going to be torn apart with the headliner/DVD/ sunroof and etc..

 

I am sarcastic when I say.."I'm sure I will get it back the same way I dropped it off"

 

Where and who do you contact at GM?

 

Has anyone really gotten satisfactory from the roof thing? Is this acceptable for repairs?

 

What Really is the fix for this?

 

Is there a buy back or does this fall under the lemon law after a few tries?

 

Thanks,

Mike P

Posted (edited)

biginjuns68 - I hate it when a new person becomes a member on this thread because it most cases it means that GM suceeded in putting another family in pain and suffering. But, you became a member at the right time. This train left the station a while ago and at this point, we know more than the dealer. Everything you mentioned with the exception of who to contact at GM has been answered on this thread. At this point in our research, I respectfully recommend you do not allow a wet behind the ears dealer work on your truck in an attempt to mitigate the buffeting. Try the cottonball and tape concept, post your results, then standby

Edited by The Zip
Posted (edited)

20sierra14 - you have been the only one to try your concept as you described it, at least that we know off per this thread, good job. Answer the questions in post 605 as best and as accurate as you can so that the concept can go to another level. My thought is to improve on what works. I have thirteen ideas on moving to the right of what you did, each one can work singularly or in combination. So when you provide the info coupled with me getting some grilles, we'll press on. When I am done, I will send you the grilles for a test drive. Another question previously unanswered, is the mic well in a finite, enclosed space?

 

Again, we are only mitigating an effect to a cause, our goal should not be to figure this out (too complicated). We just didn't give GM 70K without any accountability; we don't want to let them off the hook

Edited by The Zip
Posted

20sierra14 - I couldn't find any specifics about the mics in the data I have, probably captured in a Service Manual (which is not scheduled to be released until the Spring). Since I don't have access to a mic, see if you can get the following information from yours.

 

O ring; post 498, page 34, picture 2

-- What is the depth of the O ring (front to back)?

-- Is the O ring hard or soft?

-- Can the O ring be removed?

-- What is the circumference of the O ring outer edge and inner edge? (doesn't look bigger than a dime, use for reference)

-- What is the material of the O ring?

 

Sorry for late response.. If you ever need some info, quote me - I'll get an email when you do :)

 

Depth - I don't have anything to measure that small, but maybe 1/8th of a inch..?

Soft

Cannot be removed - Glued (most likely) to the plastic behind it

About 3/4 of an in wide

Some squishy, sound-deadening foam.. Proper name? No clue.

Posted (edited)

20sierra14 - you have been the only one to try your concept as you described it, at least that we know off per this thread, good job. Answer the questions in post 605 as best and as accurate as you can so that the concept can go to another level. My thought is to improve on what works. I have thirteen ideas on moving to the right of what you did, each one can work singularly or in combination. So when you provide the info coupled with me getting some grilles, we'll press on. When I am done, I will send you the grilles for a test drive. Another question previously unanswered, is the mic well in a finite, enclosed space?

 

Again, we are only mitigating an effect to a cause, our goal should not be to figure this out (too complicated). We just didn't give GM 70K without any accountability; we don't want to let them off the hook

 

No, the openings are NOT enclosed... My fingers can feel all around the back of the headliner.. In other words, I think the mic is mounted the metal roof and then headliner was just placed on top. The mic doesn't seem to be concealed off in its own space.

 

Edit: I just ran out to check.. the mics are NOT concealed to their own enclosed space.

Edited by 20Sierra14
Posted (edited)

Ok - got it. Set back with your response. Without the mic being in a well, your concept will degrade over time, another reason to press-on. Occasionally repack the cotton to mitigate this. Not a big issue at this point, as my ideas don't involve cotton. Your photo surely looks like the depth is deeper, do this. Take a standard stick pin and place it in the opening. When it stops, provide me with the percentage of the pin left exposed.

 

The grille you provided in the photo 1 is the one for bluetooth. Pop off the grille again and see if the mic is similar to the others. If so, I will be able to get measurements.

Edited by The Zip

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