Jump to content

How are you guys liking your Chevy Cruze?


STINSAN3

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hopefully it bring newer it should be, but ya never know. Would the Turbo Diesel be worth getting?

 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Hopefully it bring newer it should be, but ya never know. Would the Turbo Diesel be worth getting?

 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I think it would be for the right price.

Posted

Disclaimer: NOT calling the Cruze crap. It is GMs best small car ever as far as I can tell.

 

Don't forget to test drive the competition. I don't care what kind of vehicle, what brand, I know plenty of people that drive pieces of crap because they are blindly brand loyal.

Then they get in a competitors car and have an "oh....crap" moment. Don't want her to get in a different car in a few months and realize she likes it much better.

Posted

Accord is a lot bigger, large/mid-size, think you mean Civic.

Na, Accord because it looks better. [emoji6]

Posted

I have been looking at the Imprezas too, AWD and they drive very well. There are lots of options for little cars, but many of them seem "soulless" to me. I think the VW's and Subarus stand out in that aspect, they are fun to drive.

Posted

VEE DUB IN DA HOUZE!!!! But yeah, when the wife and I were vehicle shopping, the 2014 Cruze Diesel is what we tested first. I think it had just about every option you could get on it but a few other's, think the heated seat's were standard, was pretty quiet motor and had some pep. Seemed like it had more pep than the standard engine in a Cruze. Only thing we didn't like was the lack of any rear leg room with my seat all the way back. Wife had to scoot her seat halfway up for my daughter to fit. Now my GTI isn't much better on the rear leg room but she doesn't have to scoot the seat up, nor do I, for people to fit in the back. That and I think the build quality between the two would go to the VW but that is just my opinion. Also, the 2.0 T engine and the sportier suspension allow for an pleasant long distance drive as well as something that can whip around the street's when you want it all while getting good gas mileage, average around 34-27 HW/Town. Though I am told the Cruze does very well in that department, but I wanted sporty and economical. If you were to go VW and didn't like the whole Hot Hatch look, the Jetta GLI, the Golf GTI equivalent, would be something to consider in your search.

Posted

I have a 2012 cruze Eco Manual.. Just hit 55k and I have only replaced the front pads and rotors and 4 tires.. Has a lifetime average of 33.8 mpg. For what it is and the price it's a great car, I use mine as a DD and for work and it's cheap to maintain and reliable to so far.

 

My sister has an auto cruze and I hate to drive it because of the transmission.. Never in the right gear and always shifting, the manual is a different story.

Posted

I have been looking at the Imprezas too, AWD and they drive very well. There are lots of options for little cars, but many of them seem "soulless" to me. I think the VW's and Subarus stand out in that aspect, they are fun to drive.

They are soulless cars.. Just a plain econobox car. If I had to do it again definatley would be a wrx or something

Posted

We're looking at small/midsize cars. We test drove a '14 Ford Fusion. They're nice, but not for that price tag. Also, we haven't test drive a Subaru, but there interior aren't that nice.

 

Accord would be nice, I always like 'em. But remember guys, it's my gf decision of what to get. But I can also drive it. I'm tired of driving 10 mpg everywhere also.

 

We might go on Wednesday and test drive some more vehicles. Maybe a Ford Escape, the new ones look nice. Also, we'll look at the Golf GTI. She's a very picky person.

 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Posted

I agree on the Fusion. Nice car, but over priced. If I had to do it all over again I would probably end up with a Mazda 3.

Posted

Na, Accord because it looks better. [emoji6]

Only compared to the 4 door civic, the 2 door looks pretty good. Does anyone know if the current gen Mazda 3 or 6 has lost any comparison test?
Posted

Only compared to the 4 door civic, the 2 door looks pretty good. Does anyone know if the current gen Mazda 3 or 6 has lost any comparison test?

Meh, I really didn't like any of the Civics, but that's just me. My buddy just bought a 2014 Mazda 6. He did a lot of research, and everything pointed to the 6 being the best car from what he told me. Not sure on the 3...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,000 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...