Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Okay so I was inspired by 2 threads here, one being the fog lights on with high beams, which I did and love. The other is a thread about putting a switch in the bed by the tailgate to turn on the cargo lights. That's a great idea but I wanted something simpler, so using the info in the fog light thread, and the link to the wire diagrams, I found the relay switch wires for the cargo lights and the reverse lights then used an extra diode from the fog light trick to connect the two. Now when it's dark and you unlock your doors with the remote, which activates the headlights and reverse lights, the cargo lights come on as well. This does activate the lights by the third brake light as well as the lights in the bed, just as if you pushed the switch on the dash. This is going to activate the cargo lights when you put the truck in reverse also, which will provide more light behind the truck, but it may glare off the rear window as well. I will be testing this tonight to see if I like it or not.

 

The reverse light relay wire is in the same brown plug as the fog lights. Number 26, its brown with 2 blue stripes.

 

The cargo light relay wire is also number 26, brown wire white stripe, but it's in the pink plug to the left of the brown plug.

 

I used the other diode from the 2 pack I bought to do the fog lights ( part # 1N004). The stripe goes toward the cargo lights in the pink plug.

 

As long as there's not too much glare to see while reversing at night then this should be a handy little trick!!

 

  • Like 12
Posted

Just what I was looking for. Do you have any pictures of your wire setup?

Posted

HA No kiddin. I was dreaming of this 3 months ago saying.. I wish there was a way...... especially I get out of work at 3 am walking to my car in an empty parking lot I like to light that shi(t up and be able to see. that cargo light really will light it up. TY

Posted

First time to upload pic. Hope this works.

 

 

post-132546-0-47499600-1409455149_thumb.jpg

post-132546-0-47499600-1409455149_thumb.jpg

post-132546-0-47499600-1409455149_thumb.jpg

post-132546-0-47499600-1409455149_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Have a link to the diodes you purchased? Also, do the reverse lights turn on when you hit the switch inside of the cab for when working in the bed or loading it at night?

  • Like 1
Posted

The diode stops the reverse lights from activating when you hit the cargo switch.

 

My original post had a typo on the part number for the diode. The correct part # is 1N4004, here's the link.

 

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036270&filterName=Type&filterValue=Diodes

  • Like 1
Posted

The diode stops the reverse lights from activating when you hit the cargo switch.

 

My original post had a typo on the part number for the diode. The correct part # is 1N4004, here's the link.

 

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036270&filterName=Type&filterValue=Diodes

 

Thanks man! Looks like I'm gonna stop by radio shack today or tomorrow

Posted

First time to upload pic. Hope this works.

 

 

attachicon.gif0830142204a.jpg

So you just shove the diode into those holes?

Posted

Yes. They will go in pretty far. About half the lead will go in.

Posted

In the picture, the diode that is in the brown plug that one end attaches to the blue wire, what color wire does the other end go to? Can't really see it clearly in the picture.

 

Thanks

Posted

If you were to put another diode in the opposite direction, then would it allow the reverse light to come on with the cargo lamps when you turn it on via the cab switch since the 2nd resistor would allow the electricity to flow the opposite way of the original?

 

I am curious becuase I am getting ready to add a VLEDs license plate frame light to add 3500 lumens when in reverse

 

If the second diode idea works, then I can hook up the light to either the cargo or the reverse, if it wouldn't work, then I would rather hook the light to the cargo lamps so I can use the light at night when I use the cargo lamps.

Posted

Yes this works great and I am very happy with it. You get extra entry light at night, the in bed lights come on under my bed cover which is great, and when reversing at night the cab lights offer extra light without any glare on the back glass.

The wire in the pink plug is brown with a white stripe.

Posted

In the picture, the diode that is in the brown plug that one end attaches to the blue wire, what color wire does the other end go to? Can't really see it clearly in the picture.

 

Thanks

The wire in the pink plug is brown with a white stripe.

Posted

Mike 1220, I guess the double diode idea would work, but I think it would be easier to just use a regular wire without a diode. The diode is just a one way valve so to speak. If you want power going both ways you don't need it. That might actually be better, let us know if you try it.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...