Jump to content

Headlights Flicker


Tcme64

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2010 Tahoe with 84,000 miles on it. About a month ago I noticed at night my headlights would flicker almost like a strobe light. I put 2 new bulbs in and that did not fix it. My local dealership has had it a long time. They put a new alternator in it and that did not fix it. The Tech has been driving it home at night and he sees the problem also. They do not know what is wrong. I have read that this is a problem and nothing can be done to fix it. Doubt if that is true. Any help would be appreciated

Posted

Bad wire somewhere, may just be loose or damaged. One of the reasons I hate electrical work unless it's basic. Take it to good shop or if you take it to the dealer make sure they get a GM certified tech to work on it. I had a wiring issue on my old 98 where the headlights and taillights wouldn't come on. The place I took it to the owner luckily had a buddy that works at the Chevy dealer here in town and they got it fixed. It was a bad wire somewhere. I can't remember where though.

Posted

Bad wire somewhere, may just be loose or damaged. One of the reasons I hate electrical work unless it's basic. Take it to good shop or if you take it to the dealer make sure they get a GM certified tech to work on it. I had a wiring issue on my old 98 where the headlights and taillights wouldn't come on. The place I took it to the owner luckily had a buddy that works at the Chevy dealer here in town and they got it fixed. It was a bad wire somewhere. I can't remember where though.

Thanks. It is at a GM dealer. They can't find any wiring issues. They are waiting for GM Tech support for help

Posted

Thanks. It is at a GM dealer. They can't find any wiring issues. They are waiting for GM Tech support for help

 

When I said GM certified tech I didn't mean just anyone in the service department, they have GM certified techs that are required for some recalls and work. Think of a GM certified tech as an ASE certified tech at any other shop and that's specific to GM vehicles.

Posted

 

When I said GM certified tech I didn't mean just anyone in the service department, they have GM certified techs that are required for some recalls and work. Think of a GM certified tech as an ASE certified tech at any other shop and that's specific to GM vehicles.

Southern. They tell me this is one of their best techs and he is certified. I think most or all of them are. Even the head of service department who has been there forever is on top of it. They are stumped. I just hope what I read in some other forums is not true. They say " This is normal" or " Nothing can be done. I doubt this is the case considering I bought it new in 2010 and it just started. Even the dome lights flicker. Makes me almost sick to stomach while driving at night. Like a low power strobe light... LOL

Posted

It's a sign of a connection somewhere that has degraded over time and is not making a good clean contact and is now likely being affected by temp changes, humidity changes and so on. I recently had the lights flickering and other more serious issues (that I won't get into here) that I think I have finally resolved.

 

Tell them to disconnect ALL the plugs to the BCM (body control module) under the dash, pack dielectric grease in all the plugs, reconnect, drive and then see what happens. If there's one thing I've learned, GM seems to have a hell of a time coming up with plugs and connections that over time will continue to pass a strong uninterrupted current.

 

If that doesn't help I'd be taking a look at the headlight switch and the connections to it, give them the dielectric grease treatment as well.

Posted

It's a sign of a connection somewhere that has degraded over time and is not making a good clean contact and is now likely being affected by temp changes, humidity changes and so on. I recently had the lights flickering and other more serious issues (that I won't get into here) that I think I have finally resolved.

 

Tell them to disconnect ALL the plugs to the BCM (body control module) under the dash, pack dielectric grease in all the plugs, reconnect, drive and then see what happens. If there's one thing I've learned, GM seems to have a hell of a time coming up with plugs and connections that over time will continue to pass a strong uninterrupted current.

 

If that doesn't help I'd be taking a look at the headlight switch and the connections to it, give them the dielectric grease treatment as well.

Thanks a bunch. I will call them this AM and discuss this with them. They are sure looking for help. Electrical issues can big a real pain

Posted

OK. They said they have it fixed. The battery??????????? It is only 8 months old and they said it tested fine but they put a new one in and the flickerin stopped. Kind of strange

Posted

Also a question: Have you ever noticed things like the door locks when using the FOB acting weird, not working correctly, interior or entry lights not doing what they should and so on?

 

The battery? Now that's interesting, you'd think they would have caught that right away, but I supposed anything is possible, could have been as simple as the battery connections just weren't that good. If it was the original AC Delco battery then it was about due to be replaced anyways, they seem to die right on time between 4 and 5 years almost like they have a timer built into them! As long as the lights now work correctly that's what counts. In my situation over time the plugs to the BCM were evidently not always passing a strong signal and was intermittent at times causing all kinds of problems. You go down a bumpy washboard gravel road and things get jarred around, one day it's fine and the next the connections could be questionable causing problems like you describe. Your truck is only 4 years old but could be suffering from some of this already. I'd still have them disconnect all the BCM plugs and give them the dielectric grease treatment just for good measure, it sure won't hurt anything.

Posted

Also a question: Have you ever noticed things like the door locks when using the FOB acting weird, not working correctly, interior or entry lights not doing what they should and so on?

 

The battery? Now that's interesting, you'd think they would have caught that right away, but I supposed anything is possible, could have been as simple as the battery connections just weren't that good. If it was the original AC Delco battery then it was about due to be replaced anyways, they seem to die right on time between 4 and 5 years almost like they have a timer built into them! As long as the lights now work correctly that's what counts. In my situation over time the plugs to the BCM were evidently not always passing a strong signal and was intermittent at times causing all kinds of problems. You go down a bumpy washboard gravel road and things get jarred around, one day it's fine and the next the connections could be questionable causing problems like you describe. Your truck is only 4 years old but could be suffering from some of this already. I'd still have them disconnect all the BCM plugs and give them the dielectric grease treatment just for good measure, it sure won't hurt anything.

No it is a DEKA and is 8 months old. The dome lights still flicker

Posted

If that's the case I would definitely take a look at the plugs to the BCM, the interior lights are one of the things controlled by the BCM. Tell them to amuse you and just disconnect all the plugs to it (also with the battery disconnected first), pack the plugs with dielectric grease, reconnect the plugs to the BCM, then reconnect the battery and see what happens. I'd also be taking a close look at the headlight / dash light dimmer / dome light switch or it's connections.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 417 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Even tougher is the 5.0 / 302. That's what this one has.    https://postimg.cc/Z9XRrCSg   https://postimg.cc/4n3F3yzY   Just realized I had the airbox removed in the engine pic, lol.
    • Yep! This should be a pin somewhere as @pgamboa really dives into all of this. Thanks for reposting the link!
    • I did the new thermostat after doing a 'flip' for a year. Runs as cool one way as the other in the summer but in the winter there is a bit of a floor. Yellow with the new 70 C thermostat. My data over the life of the unit to date. Still need more cooler. Anyway that floor helped both winter fuel economy and shift quality in the winter. I found it a good balance.       
    • Evan Williams Bottled in Bond   So pouring the last of a bottle of Evan Williams Black label last night I set off the the state store for a refill only to be denied the by an empty shelf. Rats.    What the did have was a bottle of Evan Williams Bottled in Bond. 100 proof. Hum, a few bucks more but a known distiller. Lets have a swing at it. ( I have before )    Cracked it open and pour a serving over ice. Hum.... more heat, yes. More alcohol naturally. But the barreling not the proof brings the taste and this one came up short.    Oh is was familiar but the heat ran the barrel over like a Peterbilt runs over a squirrel. Could use a heavier toasting of the oak me thinks or perhaps a longer barreling. Who knows. But what I can say is ice or a water back isn't the answer. What kills one kills them both. Sad. It is a pleasant drink....if you have little to compare it to.  
    • I've had exactly one set of Bridgestone. Lasted five year and 125,000 miles and had I known better 15oK would have been a cake walk. I would have bought a like set had they not tripled in price since the first set. I removed them at said mileage with 5/32" remaining in dead even wear all four. They were fuel efficient, quite, comfortable and predictable.    Early on I got a very good alignment checked at least once a year, sometimes twice; kept the tires properly inflated, balanced and rotated. And I've found that many a tire issue can be avoided with great maintenance practices. Lot's of tire dealers will do rotation and balance (simple) for free for as long as you own the tire they sold you so no excuse not to.    Bead prep, alloy integrity and stem health have a huge impact on inflation stability. There are more mountings done poorly that perfectly. Finding a good tire guy is gold and as important as finding a tire you like.    That 3X price increase now two sets of "other tires' later is starting look like a bargain.      Bad maintenance kills more tires than bad tires. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...