Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Maybe it's stock, .5, .75, and 1.85"? Idk i can't remember

 

I think its:

 

1. Stock

2. .75"

3. 1.25"

4. 1.85"

Posted (edited)

I recently read a thread that said that the numbers outlined by Bilstien are the increases in shock length and don't translate to the actual amount of lift in the front end. It said something like actual lift was something close to double what the increase in shock length was so setting 3 at 1.24" would translate to something close to 2.5" of lift....Just wondering if there's any truth to this since I have close to 3" of rake on my Sierra...

Edited by marino454
Posted (edited)

I recently read a thread that said that the numbers outlined by Bilstien are the increases in shock length and don't translate to the actual amount of lift in the front end. It said something like actual lift was something close to double what the increase in shock length was so setting 3 at 1.24" would translate to something close to 2.5" of lift....Just wondering if there's any truth to this since I have close to 3" of rake on my Sierra...

 

No the snap rings are directly correlated to lifting the front end. I had 3" of rake on my sierra. I got 1.85" of lift in the front. Here is how it turned out.

 

IMG_1520_zpszkdtiszo.jpg

Edited by 5RWill
  • Like 1
Posted

 

No the snap rings are directly correlated to lifting the front end. I had 3" of rake on my sierra. I got 1.85" of lift in the front. Here is how it turned out.

 

IMG_1520_zpszkdtiszo.jpg

I was under the impression that the space between each snap ring setting is about half of what they will provide for lift. Changing that definitely does not make the shock longer though, it simply compresses the coil more.

Posted (edited)

Where did I state that it makes the shock longer? I never said such. I was letting Marino know it doesn't change the length of the shock.

 

It only compresses the coil more on the strut. Once the strut is mounted the displacement of the spring is the same, since the weight of the truck is the only thing compressing the spring once mounted. We've been over this.

Edited by 5RWill
Posted (edited)

Where did I state that it makes the shock longer? I never said such. I was letting Marino know it doesn't change the length of the shock.

 

It only compresses the coil more on the strut. Once the strut is mounted the displacement of the spring is the same, since the weight of the truck is the only thing compressing the spring once mounted. We've been over this.

I wasnt saying you said it, I was replying to him even though I quoted you.

 

Also we can go over again if you'd like. It compresses the coil even when the trucks weight is on it, thats how it creates lift. If it didn't it wouldnt lift the vehicle... Bilstein even says themselves that it creates lift by compressing the coil.

 

"The lift on the 5100 Series leveling shocks is achieved by increasing the preload on the factory coil. By adding more preload, the shock is designed with more rebound damping as compared to the O.E. or standard aftermarket replacement shock."

 

http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/user_upload/user_upload_us/pdfs/Bil_LevShks_WebArticle.pdf

 

so essentially it lifts the same as a coil preload spacer, but the 5100's provide the proper dampening to handle the rebound.

Edited by projectsummit
Posted (edited)

Yes that was my point.The displacement of the spring is the same if it weren't there would be no lift. Once mounted to the truck the only thing compressing the spring is the weight of the truck itself. Hence the term preload. I think we're agreeing about the same thing. Maybe I misread your statement, didn't meant to come off offensive i thought we were getting into that "beating the horse" topic again.

 

Pretty much, which is weird because i couldn't find any coil spacers for these trucks yet there are plenty for every other manufacturer.

Edited by 5RWill
Posted (edited)

I am still disagreeing lol. If the billies did not compress the coil more when the trucks weight is on it than a stock application does then the suspension in theory would ride the same quality wise, but instead its way stiffer.

 

We need to do a test and measure the coil length with 5100's installed compared to the stock coil length, both with the vehicle weight compressing the coil.

Edited by projectsummit
Posted (edited)

That would be an interesting test. That's what our last discussion in this thread was on though: ride quality. You attributed it to a changing spring rate or stiffened spring, i think it's simply the shock itself combined with the change in geometry of suspension.

 

At stock application the spring is compressed by the weight of the truck. Move the snap ring the displacement and spring rate stay the same and truck's height moves as a result. This is because the only force weighing on the spring is the truck itself once mounted. We're both agreeing in the method of lifting, just disagree in what causes this "stiffness or bad ride quality" people are complaining about at max height. Which it's beyond me why i'm arguing i actually quite enjoy my 5100s at max height lol. Take the 7000mt just like the 5100, both lift about 2", both use the OEM spring to do so. Yet it supposedly rides softer than the bilstein from the only review i've found. Now i have no anecdotal evidence to prove his statement. Take your ranchos and put them on the highest ride quality setting and tell me if it compares to the harshness of your old 5100s.

 

 

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/rancho-7000-mt-shocks-253720.html#post3939515

"The 5100's and 7000's are pretty much the same shock. Same type of valving, but to reduce the harshness that a lot of people complain about- Rancho opted for less PSI.
75-100 psi is a big difference as far as harshness.
Imo, If you "like" the 5100's. you will "love" the Rancho's"
All that said i don't find my 5100s to be rough of course some might. Do i feel my stock ranchos were softer on pavement? Yup sure do but they were just that: a pavement shock. Going off road with those things or even a bumpy road was pretty annoying.
Edited by 5RWill
Posted

 

That would be an interesting test. That's what our last discussion in this thread was on though: ride quality. You attributed it to a changing spring rate or stiffened spring, i think it's simply the shock itself combined with the change in geometry of suspension.

 

At stock application the spring is compressed by the weight of the truck. Move the snap ring the displacement and spring rate stay the same and truck's height moves as a result. This is because the only force weighing on the spring is the truck itself once mounted. We're both agreeing in the method of lifting, just disagree in what causes this "stiffness or bad ride quality" people are complaining about at max height. Which it's beyond me why i'm arguing i actually quite enjoy my 5100s at max height lol. Take the 7000mt just like the 5100, both lift about 2", both use the OEM spring to do so. Yet it supposedly rides softer than the bilstein from the only review i've found. Now i have no anecdotal evidence to prove his statement. Take your ranchos and put them on the highest ride quality setting and tell me if it compares to the harshness of your old 5100s.

 

 

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/rancho-7000-mt-shocks-253720.html#post3939515

"The 5100's and 7000's are pretty much the same shock. Same type of valving, but to reduce the harshness that a lot of people complain about- Rancho opted for less PSI.
75-100 psi is a big difference as far as harshness.
Imo, If you "like" the 5100's. you will "love" the Rancho's"
All that said i don't find my 5100s to be rough of course some might. Do i feel my stock ranchos were softer on pavement? Yup sure do but they were just that: a pavement shock. Going off road with those things or even a bumpy road was pretty annoying.

 

Oh ya raising them makes them pretty harsh that's for sure. I don't think the geometry make a huge difference on these trucks when lifting. The control arms don't go to any extreme angles that's for sure (ball joints do though). I did add some new upper control arms with my quicklifts though and it helped with topping out over speed bumps. I agree with you about the stock shocks, they are dangerous how bouncy they are. Hitting wash board and rail road tracks would make my back end up around.

Posted (edited)

You should measure your coil length from top plate to bottom coil mount and take a pic, then we can compare to someone who is stock. I honestly would like to be proven wrong, just to lay this to rest. It's something that's been debated over for a long time on many different forums.

Edited by projectsummit
Posted

Idk that i can get a picture of the entire coil i'll see though.

 

A little off topic you felt it rides better with new UCAs? I thought about adding some Cognitos later down the road.

Posted (edited)

What I noticed with my quicklifts is that they are longer than the stock shocks, which in turn gave me the same problem that people with spacers run into (even though most of them deny the fact or else are too oblivious to notice). I would top out my suspension, meaning my shock was trying to push further than the ball joint/stops would allow it. When I would go over speed bumps the suspension would make a thump when extending after hitting it. In my case it was my ball joint angles causing me to hit my ball joint limits.

 

you can see in this picture how much longer it is.

 

med_gallery_140298_3255_1056282.jpg

 

I would have went with cognito control arms, but they don't have any for factory aluminum suspension. I ended up going with rough country, they were $250 and designed for factory aluminum suspension. They aren't listed online anywhere yet, but you can get them by calling them directly. They're designed for their 3.5" lift kit, but work great with 2" lift as well. I have nearly perfect ball joint angles now. Their customer support was horrible and told me that they wouldn't work with rancho's or 2" of lift, probably just being pissy that I bought someone elses product. I decided to try them despite their recommendation (to call rancho and ask if they have control arms) and I was impressed.

 

In these pictures you can see the difference in ball joint angles.

 

 

20150207_212520_zpslsj03gez.jpg

gallery_140298_3311_3514664.jpg

Edited by projectsummit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,827 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...