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Bilstein 5100 adj shocks (front and rear)

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sugarjohnson Enthusiast

sugarjohnson

Posted
Posted (edited)

Called a couple shops yesterday to have my 5100's installed.

 

One quote fromto do my struts and an alignment. $410 for the fronts, $135 for the rears, and $162.15 for an alignment.

 

The other doesn't have any availability for 4-6 weeks! They do a lot of tractor trailer repairs and RV maintenance. So I guess people are gearing up for summer...

 

So I guess I am stuck using the first one, which is fine, other than the price, I think they are a little steep. I think I will likely do the rears myself to save the $135.

 

But $410 + $162.15 = $572.15

 

Does that sound reasonable to everyone here for the front struts and an alignment? Seems excessive to me, but I have nothing to compare to since I did get any other prices and haven't done this before.

Drive up to Milwaukee and I can give you my guy. 250 for fronts with alignment. Do the rears yourself, easy 30 minute job.

 

I am willing to do just about anything on my truck despite it being new but I draw the line at compressing springs. I know they can be done but its one of those jobs where the right tool for job really makes it easier and safer.

Edited by sugarjohnson
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chuckl1218
chuckl1218

Installed the rear 5100's today. Short test ride afterward. Smoothed out some bumps noticibly. This is while it was still on the jacks. Can't wait to install fronts now.

calgator73
calgator73

Just had mine put on front/rear.....rides amazing.   Update....the best comparison I can make is that the 5100s ride like factory autoride shocks on my denali....always composed. Several large spee

Spurshot
Spurshot

The rear shocks don't add any height. They are only shocks.   The front shocks accommodate the upper and lower OEM spring pad. The lower spring pad register location is controlled by a snap ring wh

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dboot66 Enthusiast

dboot66

Posted
Posted

Called a couple shops yesterday to have my 5100's installed.

 

One quote fromto do my struts and an alignment. $410 for the fronts, $135 for the rears, and $162.15 for an alignment.

 

The other doesn't have any availability for 4-6 weeks! They do a lot of tractor trailer repairs and RV maintenance. So I guess people are gearing up for summer...

 

So I guess I am stuck using the first one, which is fine, other than the price, I think they are a little steep. I think I will likely do the rears myself to save the $135.

 

But $410 + $162.15 = $572.15

 

Does that sound reasonable to everyone here for the front struts and an alignment? Seems excessive to me, but I have nothing to compare to since I did get any other prices and haven't done this before.

Wow that is very high. I had my 5100s installed 3 days ago, and paid a grand total of $406 to a local shop for installation of all 4 and the alignment (and I thought that was kinda high). Your guy is over $700 for the same work. Ouch.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

I've decided to do the work myself. I will only use the shop for an alignment.

 

If you want something done, do it yourself!

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fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted (edited)

Did you try the dealer? That's expensive!

 

Didn't even consider the dealer. Figured they would be just as expensive if not more.

 

Gonna do this myself tomorrow. Not my first time doing shocks and struts so I know what to expect.

 

Side note. Anyone know the torque specs on all the nuts and bolts for the front and rear?

 

edit:

 

Found the torque specs, posting here for reference:

 

Torque specs for:

specs are in red:

Front Upper Strut Bolts: 37 ft.lbs

Front Lower Strut Bolt: 37 ft.lbs

Upper Ball Joint Nut: first pass 37 ft.lbs, second pass 90-110 degrees

Steering Linkage Nut: first pass 26 ft.lbs second pass 85-105 degrees

Sway Bar Nut: 17 ft.lbs

Rear Lower Shock Bolts: 85 ft.lbs

Rear U-Bolts: first pass 59 ft.lbs, second pass 130 degrees

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by fondupot
mtbsam Enthusiast

mtbsam

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just a side note for anyone.... The top nuts that are in the engine compartment on top of the fender well have a torque spec (not sure what it is, the shop installed them and I can't remember) and it was not enough to even fully install the nut. I was having a klunky noise in the front end and when I brought it back, they found the nut still had 5 or 6 turns before it seated all the way down. I'm not sure if there were just some bad threads or what, but I figured I'd share what I found out.

Edited by mtbsam
YQatari Enthusiast

YQatari

Posted
Posted

I got my Bilstein 5100 struts installed a few days ago, used the 2" RC bottom spacer and left the snap ring at the second notch (0.6"), so total about 2.6". I also installed Zone UCAs at the same time. The ride has significantly improved, no more bouncy front end like the stock ranchos with the 2.5" RC kit!

  • Like 1
fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Just got my rears installed. Piece of cake. Got it done in under 45 minutes. One of my OEM ranchos was definitely blown out. I could push it in about 3-4 inches before It would even have any resistance, while the other one (which was a replacement from the dealer about 6 months ago) I could feel resistance right at the start of pushing it down.

 

So I am NOT crazy when I said the loaner 2015 Z71 I drove the other day rode nicer than my truck! The service department was like, nah they ride the same. lol what bullshit.

 

Anyway, I haven't decided if I will actually do the fronts today. My helper had to do something and It's just me working on them. I know the fronts will be a little more involved than just a could bolts.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Decided to do the fronts. Only problem I am having is torquing down the strut hat nut. It's impossible to use my torque wrench because the threads spin. I could only do it with a 15 mm wrench while holding the threads ( there's a little flat part at the top to do so). I tightened them as much as I could before I released the spring compressors. Is this flange but on enough?

 

 

a47ec90ff5230b3d9a7123709ae1c9f0.jpg

 

 

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nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted (edited)

You could try using vise grips on the strut stem inside of the coils. Also what setting did you put them at? Im really torn between these shocks and the rancho quicklifts right now, only thing stopping me from ordering these is idea of the highest setting being too stiff for my liking.

Edited by projectsummit
fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

You could try using vise grips on the strut stem inside of the coils. Also what setting did you put them at? Im really torn between these shocks and the rancho quicklifts right now, only thing stopping me from ordering these is idea of the highest setting being too stiff for my liking.

 

You cant see any of the stem inside the coils. But I got it figured out and tight. it only calls for 35 ft lbs which is not that tight. I got them on there good.

 

I used the third setting from the bottom. I cant recall what lift that gives, but I didnt want to go max and I didn't want to be stock. I changed my mind, a few times lol.

 

Got one side done.....taking a break and gonna get to the otherside. Should go quicker since I had to run out and get a tool for the first side.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

I believe that settings is 1.25" keep us posted!

 

 

Just finished. Second side was easier. But It still had to remove the upper balljoint and sway bar end link to get the new strut in.

 

Took it for a quick spin, nothing in depth. But I like what it is so far. Feels overall a lot more solid. Handles the bumps better.

 

I forgot to measure my fenders before I started, but my fronts are now around 38" and the rear is 40". So just about 2" of rake. Which I Like.

 

 

 

 

 

Just a side note for anyone.... The top nuts that are in the engine compartment on top of the fender well have a torque spec (not sure what it is, the shop installed them and I can't remember) and it was not enough to even fully install the nut. I was having a klunky noise in the front end and when I brought it back, they found the nut still had 5 or 6 turns before it seated all the way down. I'm not sure if there were just some bad threads or what, but I figured I'd share what I found out.

 

 

Just saw this. I didnt have an issue at all with not enough thread. There was plenty and some extra.

nadrojcote Senior Enthusiast

nadrojcote

Posted
Posted

Can you comment on how it handles cracks in the road and little pot holes? I can't stand driving with my stock ranchos anymore because of how it jars on cracks in the road.

gone_fishing Enthusiast

gone_fishing

Posted
Posted

One of my OEM ranchos was definitely blown out. I could push it in about 3-4 inches before It would even have any resistance, while the other one (which was a replacement from the dealer about 6 months ago) I could feel resistance right at the start of pushing it down.

 

One of my rear factory Rancho's did the same thing. This movement was the cause of a clunk I was experiencing. Replaced rears with 4600's and I hope to do the front's down the road.

 

Are you planing to lift the rear axle also or leave it stock height?

 

Thanks!

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