Jump to content

Bedslide question


Horacio

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I ordred and received a Bedslide 1500 Pro CG for my Denali. I unboxed it and holy $hit is this thing heavy! Does anyone have the 1000 SE and is it heavy as well? The mfg website only gives weight ranges. Putting this thing in my Denali will def defeat the purpose of having a 6.2L motor.

I'm also wondering if there is any other product that someone might have that they like.

 

Thanks

Posted

Looks like a steel unit made for contractors that have heavy tools and equipment. The average I get in my bed for a hunting trip across the country is 400-600 lbs . I gave some thought to a slide on top of my drawers (seen it at the L.A. Car Show), but it would definitely be an aluminum lightweight job.

 

These drawers are 10" high x 48" wide x a little less than the 5 1/2' bed (my current truck has a 6 1/2' bed) and weigh about 200lbs (3rd truck they've been in). Then my topper is another couple hundred. I'm 400-500 lbs behind before I put anything in it.

 

DSC_2756Medium_zps1c74105c.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
    • I wonder kind of nuts and bolts they will come up with next? Jim
    • “It should be recognized, however, that there becomes a point where fuel economy oils do not make much economic sense for the end consumer—we talk about a fuel saving of ~€100 compared to a risk of €1000 Euros if the oil is too thin and causes increased engine wear rates. However, the benefit of these oils accrues to the car manufacturers. If their vehicles can save 1–2% fuel by using a special fuel economy lubricant, then that OEM can drastically reduce the amount of fines they need to pay.”   I liked this and the following paragraph as well but it’s really only touching the beginning of the benefits OEMs see from spec’ing these oils. After you factor in “out of warranty” service work and new car sales when these engines fail before their time, it’s a good racket for them. Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you!
    • Too much voodoo and snake oil.   Time to go EV    😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...