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Cruise Control not working

csuttle

By csuttle
in Ask A GM Technician

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gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

You have FACTORY LEDs in your Toyota, I have AFTERMARKET LED taillights (Anzo) in my '13 HD, and they also work without a problem. Usually replacement LED taillight assemblies are correctly wired for the vehicle they are listed for. For those who do not replace the whole assembly and only choose to use, for example only, Pilot brand LED bulb replacements that they now sell at Auto Zone or WalMart (at least in my area), they do not always work correctly or sometimes worse, create problems in the lighting circuit. Check this link out, http://www.superbrightbulbs.com/3157_led_selection_troubleshooting.html It's one of many that explains the issues that using the wrong type of bulb in your vehicle can create. I am not condemning the Pilot brand, I only use them as an example because they've become more widely available in my area

 

 

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As for the Original Posters problem, I see that you had replaced the tail light assemblies, so this may not be the issue, and you may have another problem such as a broken wire, faulty switch or even a corroded or faulty fuse. It is possible for a fuse to go bad, but not look like it's blown (usually indicated by a voltage drop across the fuse) You may want to start with checking the center high mount stop lamp issue. If I remember right, the cruise control module gets it CANCEL signal from that circuit. It may very well be just burned out bulbs, but if you have a short in the light blue wire in that circuit , it will cause an issue with your cruise. I have also seen a short in the trailer 7 way connector ( if equipped with one ) back feed and cause problems with cruise circuits. Start with the basics, double check your fuses (check that the voltage is the same on both sides using a multimeter) A word of caution, don't go poking around the wiring harness with a standard TEST LIGHT, if you hit the wrong wire, it can cause damage to the electronics. You can usually pick up a decent, low impedance digital muli meter at Radio Shack, Home Depot, Lowes, WalMart, Harbor Freight, etc. Check the brake lamp switch for proper adjustment. And get your hands ( or computer) on the proper repair manual for your vehicle. For example AlldataDIY.com will give you access to fairly complete trouble shooting guides for your vehicle. And if you are pretty handy, would pay for itself the first time you use it. Just my opinion.

Aftermarket sucks my son !!! Lol

csuttle Enthusiast

csuttle

Posted
  • Author
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Well I checked fuses and they were good. I re-installed factory (ugly) taillights and cruise control worked. I then re-installed the led lights and made sure resistor was connected, positive to positive and negative to negative (basically they are installed correctly). I did all my light checks before driving down the highway and all lights worked properly. Guess what...damn cruise control doesn't work. Anyone have any thoughts on how to fix this as I really do like these lights and they were expensive. If not, guess I am gonna go without cruise unless I have a long drive then will quickly install factory ones. I made a mistake earlier and said the brand was Spyder when they are actually WinJet. Thanks for your help/comments.

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

Try removing the resistor and see if it makes any difference. The resister is there to hide the low current of the LED lights. If the current being used is not what the rest of the system expects, there will be some odd results.

 

Also verify that the resistor is installed on the correct wire.

 

Can that actual led bulbs be replaced with incandescent bulbs? If so, try that, but remove the resistor as well.

 

According to WinJet web site all their tail light assemblies require no modification to existing vehicle for them to work. From your post it sounds like you have to made a modification by installing a resistor. Are you able to do as they claim, and "plug and play" these lights?

csuttle Enthusiast

csuttle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Try removing the resistor and see if it makes any difference. The resister is there to hide the low current of the LED lights. If the current being used is not what the rest of the system expects, there will be some odd results.

 

Also verify that the resistor is installed on the correct wire.

 

Can that actual led bulbs be replaced with incandescent bulbs? If so, try that, but remove the resistor as well.

 

According to WinJet web site all their tail light assemblies require no modification to existing vehicle for them to work. From your post it sounds like you have to made a modification by installing a resistor. Are you able to do as they claim, and "plug and play" these lights?

I removed the resistor and the lights blinked rapidly. I did not make any modifications to these assemblies as they come "plug and play." Each assembly came with a resistor that can only be plugged in one way. These assemblies are sealed with 20+/- l.e.d.s already installed...no way to connect an incandescent bulb (that is the factory look that I am trying to get away from anyway). I guess I can try unplugging the resistor to see if the cruise works and just deal with the rapid blinking...i don't know what would be more annoying...no cruise or rapid blinking lights.

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

The point of removing the resistor was just to see if the cruise came back. With LEDs you will always need a device to up the current in the circuit. Back when LEDs were first coming out I seem to recall wiring a standard incandescent bulb in the circuit to get signals to flash correctly on a motorcycle. Problem with doing that is the heat from the bulb when it is also the brake light(not an issue on a bike). LED signals will flash fast because there is not enough current flow without some add-in resistor. You may need a different value resistor. See if cruise works without resistor and post back the result..

 

Did you change the 3rd brake light? You may want to try taking the bulb out just to see if cruise starts to work. Maybe pick up a LED replacement bulb for it? No idea if the bulb currently in there has a LED replacement available.

 

You will have to keep in mind that you are trying to correct something that appears to have a design flaw somewhere, so the fix may be a bit odd.

csuttle Enthusiast

csuttle

Posted
  • Author
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The point of removing the resistor was just to see if the cruise came back. With LEDs you will always need a device to up the current in the circuit. Back when LEDs were first coming out I seem to recall wiring a standard incandescent bulb in the circuit to get signals to flash correctly on a motorcycle. Problem with doing that is the heat from the bulb when it is also the brake light(not an issue on a bike). LED signals will flash fast because there is not enough current flow without some add-in resistor. You may need a different value resistor. See if cruise works without resistor and post back the result..

 

Did you change the 3rd brake light? You may want to try taking the bulb out just to see if cruise starts to work. Maybe pick up a LED replacement bulb for it? No idea if the bulb currently in there has a LED replacement available.

 

You will have to keep in mind that you are trying to correct something that appears to have a design flaw somewhere, so the fix may be a bit odd.

When I first installed these lights, my running lights didn't work and the turn signal flashed rapidly. I had to change something. The stock taillights are: turn signal at top, reverse in middle and brake/running light at bottom. These new LED lights are: running/brake/turn at top, reverse in middle and running/brake/turn on bottom. I reversed the top plug with the bottom and all lights worked correctly. That is when the cruise went out. Last night I removed resistor...lights blinked rapidly but cruise worked. I then flipped the plugs to what I believe their correct (original) position and cruise worked, lights blinked rapidly but running lights did not work. I plugged in the resistors and had same problems. I once again flipped plugs and plugged in resistors and back to my same issue...all lights work correctly but no cruise. I called www.carid.com where we purchased the taillights from and they are sending me new resistors. We will see if that works.

  • 2 weeks later...
csuttle Enthusiast

csuttle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got the new resistors. I attached one to the turn signal light wire and one to the brake light wire (both on the drivers side). All lights work correctly and cruise control now works! Happy as hell right now! Thanks guys for all your help.

Duelin Enthusiast

Duelin

Posted
Posted

Got the new resistors. I attached one to the turn signal light wire and one to the brake light wire (both on the drivers side). All lights work correctly and cruise control now works! Happy as hell right now! Thanks guys for all your help.

:) Good to hear. I think that it would helpful if you posted what resistor you started with and what resistor you replaced it with to get the cruise control to work. That is the purpose of these forums. To help other members that might run into the same problem.

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

Got the new resistors. I attached one to the turn signal light wire and one to the brake light wire (both on the drivers side). All lights work correctly and cruise control now works! Happy as hell right now! Thanks guys for all your help.

 

I don't understand how adding a resistor to the left rear turn signal lead will make the right side work properly. Supposed to be two distinct circuits. I can see brake lights working, provided they are different bulbs(or LEDs) from turn signals. Are the resistors going on the power side of the LED, or the ground side? I know the turn signal flasher unit is almost a small computer now compared to the 2 or 3 wire flasher unit in the old days, perhaps there is some fancy circuit design in there to justify the $150 price tag?

 

NOTE: this question has nothing to do with the fact that it is working now, it is just something an old man can't quite grasp.

csuttle Enthusiast

csuttle

Posted
  • Author
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:) Good to hear. I think that it would helpful if you posted what resistor you started with and what resistor you replaced it with to get the cruise control to work. That is the purpose of these forums. To help other members that might run into the same problem.

I kept the original resistors connected. When I disconnected them the lights would hyper blink...even with new resistors. I don't know what the original resistors are because they came from the taillight manufacturer but the new ones are 50w from Lumen.

csuttle Enthusiast

csuttle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

I don't understand how adding a resistor to the left rear turn signal lead will make the right side work properly. Supposed to be two distinct circuits. I can see brake lights working, provided they are different bulbs(or LEDs) from turn signals. Are the resistors going on the power side of the LED, or the ground side? I know the turn signal flasher unit is almost a small computer now compared to the 2 or 3 wire flasher unit in the old days, perhaps there is some fancy circuit design in there to justify the $150 price tag?

 

NOTE: this question has nothing to do with the fact that it is working now, it is just something an old man can't quite grasp.

I added one resistor to the turn signal wire and it didn't work. I added another one to the brake light wire and now everything works. The way these resistors are is a 50w with a wire out each end. Connect one wire to the power wire via a clip that has a blade to crimp down on both wires thus connecting them. The other wire from the resistor is to connect to the ground wire. I assume when I added the second resistor to the brake light wire that sent a power signal to the computer that the brake light is no longer on, therefore not canceling out the cruise control anymore? Maybe I got lucky on picking the correct side to start on and that is the only one the computer/cruise control senses? Remember, all lights worked correctly, just the cruise control didn't work.

Doug_Scott Senior Enthusiast

Doug_Scott

Posted
Posted

I added one resistor to the turn signal wire and it didn't work. I added another one to the brake light wire and now everything works. The way these resistors are is a 50w with a wire out each end. Connect one wire to the power wire via a clip that has a blade to crimp down on both wires thus connecting them. The other wire from the resistor is to connect to the ground wire. I assume when I added the second resistor to the brake light wire that sent a power signal to the computer that the brake light is no longer on, therefore not canceling out the cruise control anymore? Maybe I got lucky on picking the correct side to start on and that is the only one the computer/cruise control senses? Remember, all lights worked correctly, just the cruise control didn't work.

 

Thanks. I think I know what is happening now. Normally I am not one to continue working on something that is working, but, in this case, I am not actually doing the work. I think the resistor on the turn signal side is not needed. If it is easy to get to, you may want to try removing resistor from the left turn signal wire.

 

It also sounds like you are using Scotchlok connectors on the wires. Depending on the environment you live in, and where these connectors end up living, you may want to attach the resistors by soldering and shrink-tube them. If you are going to try removing the left signal resistor, it would be a good time to make the other resistor a permanent connection.

  • 1 year later...
mspencex New Member

mspencex

Posted
Posted

Just had the same problem. Don't make the mistake of thinking just because your brake lights are working it's not the brake switch. You can take this to the bank, the brake switch is the weak link in the chain. If you were disassemble the switch, you would notice the brake, and cruise contacts are separate (two switch's, one housing). When the brake light switch is closed (active), the cruise contacts are open. When you remove your foot from the brake, the brake light contacts open, and the cruise contacts close. The brake light circuit is normally open, and the cruise circuit is normally closed.

What happens is a small hole that a rocker pin sets in becomes enlarged, which affects the travel of the plunger, thus failing to close the cruise circuit. The cruise control system thinks the brakes are applied, keeping the cruise from working. Due to the design of the switch, it affects the cruise first. Eventually the brake lights would fail to operate.

I had a small brass sleeve, which I glued over the pin in the rocker. I increased the hole diameter in the plunger so the sleeve fit snugly. Switch works good, as new.

It would have been easier to go to the dealer and pick up a new switch. For most the repair I described would be impossible, and considering it controls the brake lights, and cruise, I don't recommend trying it. With the proper tools, and brass sleeve, one could end with a switch that's better than new.

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