Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

You connect the wiring harness like you would normally do. When your done, program your homelink with the remote it comes with. Just like your programming a garage door opener. To be honest, Id rather have a switch hard wired. While driving I have to press the button a few times before the lightbar turns on.

 

Thanks for the input man

Posted (edited)

I found this terminal. It looks the same as the one on the wire part. Anyone got any thoughts on this?

 

I don't know that it fits but I think I'm going to start here before I drop $40 plus for the gm oem.

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2207797/?gclid=CjwKEAiAuKy1BRCY5bTuvPeopXcSJAAq4OVsa9DpOT2Xamn5FeFI3J3Eqa0ykQkEdR4fbFn81vJa4RoC9C7w_wcB

 

EDIT: Found them cheaper here: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/962885-1/A105237CT-ND/3440492

 

I ordered them. I will post a follow up when I check the fit.

Edited by arkiehou02
  • Like 3
Posted

I found this terminal. It looks the same as the one on the wire part. Anyone got any thoughts on this?

 

I don't know that it fits but I think I'm going to start here before I drop $40 plus for the gm oem.

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2207797/?gclid=CjwKEAiAuKy1BRCY5bTuvPeopXcSJAAq4OVsa9DpOT2Xamn5FeFI3J3Eqa0ykQkEdR4fbFn81vJa4RoC9C7w_wcB

 

EDIT: Found them cheaper here: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/962885-1/A105237CT-ND/3440492

 

I ordered them. I will post a follow up when I check the fit.

They look very similar, hopefully they will work!

Posted

I found this terminal. It looks the same as the one on the wire part. Anyone got any thoughts on this?

 

I don't know that it fits but I think I'm going to start here before I drop $40 plus for the gm oem.

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2207797/?gclid=CjwKEAiAuKy1BRCY5bTuvPeopXcSJAAq4OVsa9DpOT2Xamn5FeFI3J3Eqa0ykQkEdR4fbFn81vJa4RoC9C7w_wcB

 

EDIT: Found them cheaper here: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/962885-1/A105237CT-ND/3440492

 

I ordered them. I will post a follow up when I check the fit.

any updates on this?

Posted (edited)

any updates on this?

I did get them in and they look similar. I am still waiting on lights and my new switch before I dig into the dash thought. I will look tonight and see if there is a similar plug visible somewhere else.

Edited by arkiehou02
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I did get them in and they look similar. I am still waiting on lights and my new switch before I dig into the dash thought. I will look tonight and see if there is a similar plug visible somewhere else.

 

Did you ever get this installed?

Posted

 

Did you ever get this installed?

It's still a no. I have lights but I'm still waiting on the switch and latching relays. The switch will be here next week but the relays are coming from China. I will try and break into the dash when the switch comes in. I need to look for a spot door the latching relays anyway.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just posted this on colton_m's original post...

I think that I have found a solution for using the OEM Momentary switches to control accessories such as light bars. I have decided to use the 23145202 switch as I have the adjustable pedals. This switch gives me 3 open slots to use. The issue with the switches is that being momentary they will not operate a standard relay. Upon searching I found these latching relay boards that come from China and cost $3 each. I picked up four of them to try, they are 12V boards that use a low input, so when the input is grounded, the relay activates and latches, until the input received another low signal. I assembled 3 of them in a case made a harness for them.attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

I am modifying the switch to have the correct icon too. attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

 

This looks great -- nice work!

Where did you get the stickers?

Posted

 

This looks great -- nice work!

Where did you get the stickers?

My wife cut them using her vinyl cutter.

 

 

So I started installing everything yesterday and discovered that my truck has the 2nd harness for the exhaust brake port, even though the original switch has a blank port. I think this could be a good thing and maybe I can just add a fuse/relay and utilize existing hardware in the truck. At the very least I now have wires to tap into for that last switch. Anyone have schematics for the exhaust brake?

post-153411-0-86921500-1457627027_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60599700-1457627039_thumb.jpeg

I also took pictures of the main connector to see if we can find the connector and the correct pins. post-153411-0-84163900-1457627051_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-86921500-1457627027_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60599700-1457627039_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-84163900-1457627051_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-86921500-1457627027_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60599700-1457627039_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-84163900-1457627051_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-86921500-1457627027_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-60599700-1457627039_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-84163900-1457627051_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

My wife cut them using her vinyl cutter.

 

 

So I started installing everything yesterday and discovered that my truck has the 2nd harness for the exhaust brake port, even though the original switch has a blank port. I think this could be a good thing and maybe I can just add a fuse/relay and utilize existing hardware in the truck. At the very least I now have wires to tap into for that last switch. Anyone have schematics for the exhaust brake?

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

I also took pictures of the main connector to see if we can find the connector and the correct pins. image.jpeg

That's interesting that the connector was there even though it was a blank. The wires were there too? I wonder where they leed?

 

I would think once hooked up you could just ground one wire and test with one of the latching relays. Just use the process of elimination.

I don't really understand why the connector has so many pins. The exhaust brake is not a variable thing is it? (Multiple presses don't mean different things do they?)

 

On a side note, I am about ready to crack mine open too. I don't have all my lights in yet but I got a box with 6 relay ports so I can just run all my wires and be ready for lights as they come in.

Edited by arkiehou02
Posted

So did you just add wires to all of the pins in the exhaust brake connector. That's interesting that the connector was there even though it was a blank.

I would think once hooked up you could just ground one wire and test with one of the latching relays. Just use the process of elimination.

I don't really understand why the connector has so many pins. The exhaust brake is not a variable thing is it? (Multiple presses don't mean different things do they?)

On a side note, I am about ready to crack mine open too. I don't have all my lights in yet but I got a box with 6 relay ports so I can just run all my wires and be ready for lights as they come in.

I didn't add any wires to the brake controller connection, it is a complete harness. That's why I am thinking I can just find the stock relay location and utilize the OEM wiring, instead of taping into the wires at the plug. But if not then I will use wire taps and connect my switch trigger to the switch output and then my output to the relay will connect to the indicator ground.

 

I have everything connected and it all works great! I will have to modify the schematic just to show that the low output from my latching relays is also run to the switch for the indicator lights, so I used two wires for each switch. I have a video that I will try to post later. Everything works just like it would from the factory. Here are a few pics of the wiring while I was installing.

 

post-153411-0-59264900-1458156453_thumb.jpeg module mounted under steering wheel

post-153411-0-10790100-1458156466_thumb.jpeg harness to power/ground and relays

post-153411-0-34581700-1458156499_thumb.jpeg harness showing plug for module and wires to OEM connector

post-153411-0-62086000-1458156483_thumb.jpeg switch installed

post-153411-0-59264900-1458156453_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-10790100-1458156466_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-62086000-1458156483_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-34581700-1458156499_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-59264900-1458156453_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-10790100-1458156466_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-62086000-1458156483_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-34581700-1458156499_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-59264900-1458156453_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-10790100-1458156466_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-62086000-1458156483_thumb.jpeg

post-153411-0-34581700-1458156499_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

 

Did you ever get this installed?

Ok finally got it opened up. I removed one of the wires to look at them side by side.

6d82fcdb94a9f41ad7b8193a22e77a0b.jpg

f713381bfc630ccae5d9a391dd36aafd.jpg

They look the exact same. Only a slight variation on the clip but they should fit just fine.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Edited by arkiehou02
Posted

Azelkhunter do you actually have adjustable pedals? I don't and was wanting to use them as my fourth switch. Only problem I see is one pin moves pedals up and another moves them down. Should I tap both wires and bring both to the latching relay? Lane departure and park assist aught to be strait forward. I'm right there with you on the exhaust brakes though. Mine had the harness as well which was a pleasant surprise.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Azelkhunter do you actually have adjustable pedals? I don't and was wanting to use them as my fourth switch. Only problem I see is one pin moves pedals up and another moves them down. Should I tap both wires and bring both to the latching relay? Lane departure and park assist aught to be strait forward. I'm right there with you on the exhaust brakes though. Mine had the harness as well which was a pleasant surprise.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Ok so I said that park assist and lane departure should be straight forward. But I looked at the pin list some more and there are 2 pins for these also. Do pins 5 and 6 control the led light on the front of the switch? Did you get yours working?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 384 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...