Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Im still on the fence about this. I would love to do it, but I want to be exactly sure of what I am doing before i break into the dash of my brand new truck.

 

So after reading this like million times...I think I am closer to understanding what was done here, lol

 

I have pedals, TC, and cargo lights/bedlights. (3 switches, it is an SLT). It would be perfectly convenient if I could just buy the first upfitter switch bank with that blank one in the third spot and the 4 AUX switches. But can I use the blank spot for a switch (my 3rd position is cargo lights), or is it just a blank? Otherwise I would have to buy the other one and do what you did here.

 

And on another note, why did you bother soldering anything to the board and bothering with those special terminals and using the OEM plug? I dont understand where you are going to plug in those small plugs with red/bk wires going towards switches?

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the update, I will definitely be using these. Looks easier than trying to mess with the fuse box. I was looking at the same bulletin just the updated version (110k). Pin 8 says accessory voltage and 11 is run/crank ignition voltage. So I guess either will work just depending on when I want them on. I just need to confirm 8 will work first.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

do you have that bulletin? the latest one i have is 110f

And I would think acc, and ign are NOT same.

Posted

do you have that bulletin? the latest one i have is 110f

And I would think acc, and ign are NOT same.

I don't have a copy. I found it on here at one time, but looked and can't find it again. I ended up using pin 11 as others had stated. I tested pin 8 and best I remember it didn't deliver as expected. Pin 11 was a slightly larger spade which made getting the connector inserted a little easier.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Im still on the fence about this. I would love to do it, but I want to be exactly sure of what I am doing before i break into the dash of my brand new truck.

 

So after reading this like million times...I think I am closer to understanding what was done here, lol

 

I have pedals, TC, and cargo lights/bedlights. (3 switches, it is an SLT). It would be perfectly convenient if I could just buy the first upfitter switch bank with that blank one in the third spot and the 4 AUX switches. But can I use the blank spot for a switch (my 3rd position is cargo lights), or is it just a blank? Otherwise I would have to buy the other one and do what you did here.

 

And on another note, why did you bother soldering anything to the board and bothering with those special terminals and using the OEM plug? I dont understand where you are going to plug in those small plugs with red/bk wires going towards switches?

You would need to do what I did. The Aux switches are different. They deliver constant power when pressed. The standard and built in switches are momentary meaning they deliver a pulse which then is received by the computer and turns the option on.

 

The reason I used the connectors was to just tap into the factory connector. I found which pin operated the ___(pedals, park assist, etc.) then used that pin number to drive my relay. That ensured when I hit that button it triggers the proper relay. Hopefully that answers your questions.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Im still on the fence about this. I would love to do it, but I want to be exactly sure of what I am doing before i break into the dash of my brand new truck.

 

So after reading this like million times...I think I am closer to understanding what was done here, lol

 

I have pedals, TC, and cargo lights/bedlights. (3 switches, it is an SLT). It would be perfectly convenient if I could just buy the first upfitter switch bank with that blank one in the third spot and the 4 AUX switches. But can I use the blank spot for a switch (my 3rd position is cargo lights), or is it just a blank? Otherwise I would have to buy the other one and do what you did here.

 

And on another note, why did you bother soldering anything to the board and bothering with those special terminals and using the OEM plug? I dont understand where you are going to plug in those small plugs with red/bk wires going towards switches?

The blank is just a space filler. No switch.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

The blank is just a space filler. No switch.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Ok, then can i get both 7 switch panels and swap buttons around? this way I can have my first 3 stock options then 4 AUX

Posted

Ok, then can i get both 7 switch panels and swap buttons around? this way I can have my first 3 stock options then 4 AUX

I guess you could, I don't have any insight on swapping them out though. I have plans to custom paint mine. That's your call though if you just want the Aux1, etc. Just remember if you move a switch then you need to move that wire also. Pedals will be fixed because it is up/down. There may be 1 more also that functions different. I can't look at mine at the moment.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Ok, then can i get both 7 switch panels and swap buttons around? this way I can have my first 3 stock options then 4 AUX

Downhill assist doesn't have an indicator either.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

You would need to do what I did. The Aux switches are different. They deliver constant power when pressed. The standard and built in switches are momentary meaning they deliver a pulse which then is received by the computer and turns the option on.

 

The reason I used the connectors was to just tap into the factory connector. I found which pin operated the ___(pedals, park assist, etc.) then used that pin number to drive my relay. That ensured when I hit that button it triggers the proper relay. Hopefully that answers your questions.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Can you clarify where the pair of soldered red and blak wires are to go. Then from there you are going through the OEM plug with the custom wires/crimps you got to ...where? the relays?

You would need to do what I did. The Aux switches are different. They deliver constant power when pressed. The standard and built in switches are momentary meaning they deliver a pulse which then is received by the computer and turns the option on.

 

The reason I used the connectors was to just tap into the factory connector. I found which pin operated the ___(pedals, park assist, etc.) then used that pin number to drive my relay. That ensured when I hit that button it triggers the proper relay. Hopefully that answers your questions.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Can you clarify where the pair of soldered red and blak wires are to go. Then from there you are going through the OEM plug with the custom wires/crimps you got to ...where? the relays?

Posted

Downhill assist doesn't have an indicator either.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Let me just clarify here, I have the first 3 options on the new 7 switch panel so the last 4 would be for extra (AUX)

Posted

Can you clarify where the pair of soldered red and blak wires are to go. Then from there you are going through the OEM plug with the custom wires/crimps you got to ...where? the relays?

 

Can you clarify where the pair of soldered red and blak wires are to go. Then from there you are going through the OEM plug with the custom wires/crimps you got to ...where? the relays?

You won't need to solder anything in the switch panel. The 7 switch panel has all the wiring. Just take the wiring diagram and add the wires with the terminals mentioned to the coordinating slots.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

You won't need to solder anything in the switch panel. The 7 switch panel has all the wiring. Just take the wiring diagram and add the wires with the terminals mentioned to the coordinating slots.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

OOOHHH..LOL That is why I was confused. I got how to set up latching relays to relays but...So why did you have to solder on those extra pair of wires with quick disconnects on the end like that?

 

THANK YOU BTW..

Posted

OOOHHH..LOL That is why I was confused. I got how to set up latching relays to relays but...So why did you have to solder on those extra pair of wires with quick disconnects on the end like that?

 

THANK YOU BTW..

That was someone else. I think he used the aux panel. But I didn't really understand that either. He was one of the many guinea pigs that got us to point we are now.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

That was someone else. I think he used the aux panel. But I didn't really understand that either. He was one of the many guinea pigs that got us to point we are now.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

lol, oh. By any chance do you know gauge wire needed for those terminals?

Posted

lol, oh. By any chance do you know gauge wire needed for those terminals?

I used an 18/7 solid core sprinkler wire. It was really to big though. It made it tough to fit in the openings on the connector. I would probably use a 22 or 24 if I had it to do over again.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
    • Looks nice. I still have my 2000, 1500. Bought a 2025, 1500 for retirement. Feels solid. These trucks have a bad rap on the internet. My brother has a `24 1500, 5.3 with 52,000 miles. No problems at all. Mine hasn`t either but mine`s only at 12,700 miles. Have seen some of these things with 100,000 miles with no problems.
    • Howdy! New to the forum of course! My name is Casey, just picked up a 2024 high country midnight edition. First “new” truck in 24 years for me. Driving a 1998 Z71 since 2002. Have been on the GMT400 forum with lots of good info and help there. Nervous about driving these newer trucks and all their electronics…. Did a lot of work on the Z71 myself over the years. New truck is definitely a nice upgrade after 24 years. Photo of the old and new, still keeping the Z71 - has 320,000 miles on her and still running well!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...