Jump to content

Suspension lift.


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok I have an 09 gmc sierra. I leveled it using Rancho quick lift struts. So I'm level with newer longer struts not blocks or anything like that. But now I'm not happy with being level I want to lift. Around 3" or so. I was looking at rough country and others. They lift 3.5 in the front but only like 1.5 or 2 in the rear. Is it possible to get on of these lifts to bring my front up 3.5" and get bigger u bolts and blocks to get 3.5 in the rear also?

Posted

Not sure where you're located but there's a place every here in Michigan called suspension maxx that could make you blocks of any size. Not sure if they make shock extensions that big so you'll have to find shocks. I just put keys and blocks in my 04 and fit 33s with minimal cutting. Suspensionmaxx.com

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Posted

Anything over 3" you NEED to do a diff drop just make sure of what you are getting and how everything will line up and function.

Posted

Anything over 3" you NEED to do a diff drop just make sure of what you are getting and how everything will line up and function.

Me personally I wouldn't go over 2" without doing the diff drop. The angles even then are pretty steep.

Posted

Ok I have an 09 gmc sierra. I leveled it using Rancho quick lift struts. So I'm level with newer longer struts not blocks or anything like that. But now I'm not happy with being level I want to lift. Around 3" or so. I was looking at rough country and others. They lift 3.5 in the front but only like 1.5 or 2 in the rear. Is it possible to get on of these lifts to bring my front up 3.5" and get bigger u bolts and blocks to get 3.5 in the rear also?

 

 

If you lift teh rear the same as the front, it's going to look really silly. There is a reason the rear lift is usually half of what the front lift it. The rear of the truck sits higher to account for weight in the bed/trailer hooked up to the truck. It will usually sag to level this way. It is going to sit really uneven if you lift the rear that much higher.

 

Also be careful with that Rough Country kit. There have been several complaints in the past from that kit, several different issues. In reality, it's just not a good quality lift kit and is taking the cheap way into lifting your truck.

Your best bet is to do it right and go with a higher quality and more complete kit, like something from BDS. IMO they make the best lifts that can be offered for these trucks and have excellent customer service if for some reason you would have any issues, unlike Rough Country.

Posted

I think he's concerned because he already leveled it and now wants to lift it, he's afraid the front might be higher.

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 503 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...