Jump to content

Reccomendations for brush scratch/swirl removal

KMGZ400

Recommended Posts

KMGZ400 Senior Enthusiast

KMGZ400

Posted
Posted

I'm looking for some reccomendations on some good scratch and swirl remover products. Also what the best towels/foam to apply them with. Preferably no power tools...thanks

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

The proper way to remove them will be using a machine. Doing it by hand will get it better especially if it is spot touchups. If you are doing the entire truck I would highly suggest a polisher (many types and brands out there)

 

For products Meguires M105 is a great product, it has never let me down

Texas Husker Senior Enthusiast

Texas Husker

Posted
Posted

For products Meguires M105 is a great product, it has never let me down

 

+1 on the Meguires. Went through a bottle or two on the black Vette when I had it. :lol: Did use a DA polisher though.

 

If the power orbital is stopping you, look at the Porter Cable 7424xp. It has a built in clutch which makes it near and I mean near impossible to burn anything. The harder you push, the less work it does.

 

If it is cost mostly, here is a good basic write up with some recommendations on pads/applicator,

 

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/26612-how-use-hand-applied-abrasive-polish-paint-cleaner-hand.html

AdamsPolishes Enthusiast

AdamsPolishes

Posted
Posted

As these guys already clarified, fact is you'll need a tool to actually remove swirls and scratches - by hand the best you can hope for is an improvement, but not complete correction.

 

We offer the Cyclo (probably the most user friendly option out there) and the Flex... have a look at the video series about machien polishing. It covers most all the concerns you'd have and of course feel free to reach out to us directly for addtional guidance.

 

 

 

Full playlist here: http://youtu.be/jM55kroCAAs?list=PL4ju56j0wCCVIDhcVxoV_kUe1cATiKn_D

KMGZ400 Senior Enthusiast

KMGZ400

Posted
  • Author
Posted

As these guys already clarified, fact is you'll need a tool to actually remove swirls and scratches - by hand the best you can hope for is an improvement, but not complete correction.

 

We offer the Cyclo (probably the most user friendly option out there) and the Flex... have a look at the video series about machien polishing. It covers most all the concerns you'd have and of course feel free to reach out to us directly for addtional guidance.

 

 

 

Full playlist here:

I stand by most of your products and I looked at the cyclo but it's just too damn expensive! Going to look at some cheaper polishers at harbor freight or Home Depot.

Texas Husker Senior Enthusiast

Texas Husker

Posted
Posted

As these guys already clarified, fact is you'll need a tool to actually remove swirls and scratches - by hand the best you can hope for is an improvement, but not complete correction.

 

We offer the Cyclo (probably the most user friendly option out there) and the Flex... have a look at the video series about machien polishing. It covers most all the concerns you'd have and of course feel free to reach out to us directly for addtional guidance.

 

Full playlist here:

 

The cyclo looks nice. :thumbs: When did y'all drop the porter cable? (just curious)

AdamsPolishes Enthusiast

AdamsPolishes

Posted
Posted

I stand by most of your products and I looked at the cyclo but it's just too damn expensive! Going to look at some cheaper polishers at harbor freight or Home Depot.

 

Solid metal housing, 60 years of perfecting and refining the tool, certifiied the lowest vibration of any tool in the industry, unparralleled reliability, and the only tool in the polishign world built right here in Longmont, CO USA . These things come at a cost. If you're looking for an inexpensive tool then I can't blame you for looking at the HF tool... our polishes and 7" pads work with that as well.

 

I assume theres a reason you bought your GM Truck over others. There had to be some reason you bought it instead of something like a Nissan Titan right? Each of us has to make decisions on purchases based on our wants/needs. I don't blame anyone for doing whats best for them - but its not like the Cyclo is priced like it is for no reason. There is justification to the price point and if you do more research you'll see that most 'premium' polishers fall north of $300 - Flex, Rupes, Festool, and others.

 

 

The cyclo looks nice. :thumbs: When did y'all drop the porter cable? (just curious)

 

Just about 2 years ago if I recall correctly.

LaserBlueZ71 Enthusiast

LaserBlueZ71

Posted
Posted

IMO, the Cyclo is the only polisher one really needs, it can do 98% of the correcting/polishing needed. The other 2% is a small drill backing plate for spot correcting very bad scratches. Also, the Cyclo is so safe, you would have to try, on purpose, very hard, to wreck your finish with one. It allows a newer user to achieve pro results with only a little bit of practice.

  • 1 month later...
albertpetersson6 Enthusiast

albertpetersson6

Posted
Posted

I would like to suggest you some products that gives you solution for your problem.You can use foam applicator pad and soft microfibre cloth.Before using this product make sure that your car need to be clean and dry.


Coppertone Enthusiast

Coppertone

Posted
Posted

 

Solid metal housing, 60 years of perfecting and refining the tool, certifiied the lowest vibration of any tool in the industry, unparralleled reliability, and the only tool in the polishign world built right here in Longmont, CO USA .

 

 

Certified by whom?

eddietorn Enthusiast

eddietorn

Posted
Posted
Work the polish nicely into the paint to get into those scratches.


I've been using Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0, it's doing the job. Also use microfiber cloth. I think the less abrasive, the better.
Sierra Boy Enthusiast

Sierra Boy

Posted
Posted

I'm looking for some reccomendations on some good scratch and swirl remover products. Also what the best towels/foam to apply them with. Preferably no power tools...thanks

You can use 3M product called Imperial hand glaze to get the light scratches and swirl marks out. Use a cloth round pad that has been dampened slightly to apply the

 

Glaze and ALWAYS go with the body lines. Straight lines from front to back...NO CIRCLES!!!!! I use diapers to remove the Glaze or what ever I'm removing that will

 

leave no scratches. It can be a little hard to remove but will work well for you with or without a buffer. I use a Snap On buffer with variable speed when I detail a car or

 

truck. Good luck. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Imperial-Hand-Glaze-Bottle/dp/B0009KJ21E

 

Sierra Boy

daniel_23 Enthusiast

daniel_23

Posted
Posted

The Turtle Wax T-238 Scratch and Swirl Remover works great. I bought it from Amazon. I apply it using Meguiar's Soft Foam Applicator Pads.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...