Best Way to Remove Rear Brake Line from ABS

xXZ-71Xx · October 5, 2015

Could not agree more with this statement. My only caveat being that I always remind myself I am human (will make mistakes) and not an expert, and need to be very careful and deliberate with any repairs, particularly with the brake system.

I 100% agree, I usually take my time (never rush) and triple check my work. I also use many sources to try and make sure I am doing my repair right because like you said we are are human and not experts.

beasticles · October 6, 2015

I 100% agree, I usually take my time (never rush) and triple check my work. I also use many sources to try and make sure I am doing my repair right because like you said we are are human and not experts.

Speaking of not rushing, last night I had a bit of a setback. When I applied pressure to the brake system using my Motive Power Bleeder to check for leaks, the flare I made at the ABS fitting was not creating a sufficient seal. I had to remove the line, cut off that end, and re-flare it. Then re-installed the line and checked for leaks - none were present. The fitting at the rear splitter was fine as-is. It was just a PIA because I thought all that was left was to bleed the brakes, but I ended up spending another two hours on the brake line alone. The good news is that I know the new line is holding as at 15 PSI the rear passenger tire bleeder was flowing nicely without any leaks on my new line. But I still need to bleed the brakes and unfortunately I found out that my motive bleeder (P/N 0100) did not have the necessary adapter for our trucks (P/N 1101) - which I ordered last night on Amazon. Hate it when you don't have the right tools when you need them - oversight on my part.

xXZ-71Xx · October 6, 2015

Speaking of not rushing, last night I had a bit of a setback. When I applied pressure to the brake system using my Motive Power Bleeder to check for leaks, the flare I made at the ABS fitting was not creating a sufficient seal. I had to remove the line, cut off that end, and re-flare it. Then re-installed the line and checked for leaks - none were present. The fitting at the rear splitter was fine as-is. It was just a PIA because I thought all that was left was to bleed the brakes, but I ended up spending another two hours on the brake line alone. The good news is that I know the new line is holding as at 15 PSI the rear passenger tire bleeder was flowing nicely without any leaks on my new line. But I still need to bleed the brakes and unfortunately I found out that my motive bleeder (P/N 0100) did not have the necessary adapter for our trucks (P/N 1101) - which I ordered last night on Amazon. Hate it when you don't have the right tools when you need them - oversight on my part.

"I thought all that was left was to bleed the brakes, but I ended up spending another two hours on the brake line alone" That's the story of my life lol, Every time I give myself a time estimate something goes wrong and I end up taking longer.

"Hate it when you don't have the right tools when you need them - oversight on my part." It seems like we will never get all the tools we need. I have been buying them since I was five'ish (My dad let me buy one every time we went to the hardware) I'm 32 now and have more tools than I have places to put them but it still seems like more often than not I am needing to buy another haha.

Belo · October 6, 2015

Could not agree more with this statement. My only caveat being that I always remind myself I am human (will make mistakes) and not an expert, and need to be very careful and deliberate with any repairs, particularly with the brake system.

yep I guess that's where I was going. It's really why forums like this or great. There are some tips and tricks that techs might know that we overlook sometimes. or other issues they might identify when working on the problem. For example I found I also have a very small coolant leak. not going to kill me if it bursts, but good to know.

Belo · October 6, 2015

Speaking of not rushing, last night I had a bit of a setback. When I applied pressure to the brake system using my Motive Power Bleeder to check for leaks, the flare I made at the ABS fitting was not creating a sufficient seal. I had to remove the line, cut off that end, and re-flare it. Then re-installed the line and checked for leaks - none were present. The fitting at the rear splitter was fine as-is. It was just a PIA because I thought all that was left was to bleed the brakes, but I ended up spending another two hours on the brake line alone. The good news is that I know the new line is holding as at 15 PSI the rear passenger tire bleeder was flowing nicely without any leaks on my new line. But I still need to bleed the brakes and unfortunately I found out that my motive bleeder (P/N 0100) did not have the necessary adapter for our trucks (P/N 1101) - which I ordered last night on Amazon. Hate it when you don't have the right tools when you need them - oversight on my part.

i didn't use a spleed bleeder, just a vacuum bleeder but had a leak there at first too. I got another small twist on the nut and didn't notice it the second time. I plan to drive her easy and check closely this weekend. Haven't had a chance to work on her again since sunday. Really hope it holds because that line was a pain!!!

I'll add this, because it took me a while to find. The fittings from the rear center hydraulic hose that goes into the 3/16th splitter are 3/8-24. it's amazing how hard this info was to find.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/american-grease-stick-co.-steel-tube-nut-5-per-card-3-16-in.-3-8-24-inverted-long-blf-10c-5/22190075-P

GreasyHands · October 7, 2015

More good info. I believe I will either use the gravity bleed option or opt for a converted pressure bleed spray canister. Appears the pressure system will help to identify leaks quicker. I purchased some of the fittings from NAPA, direct cross ref from those posted above. Could make this go away by simply throwing cash at it, but that is a hunk of change for replacing all those lines. Will be starting my repair in a couple of weeks. Thanks again for posting.

Belo · October 7, 2015

More good info. I believe I will either use the gravity bleed option or opt for a converted pressure bleed spray canister. Appears the pressure system will help to identify leaks quicker. I purchased some of the fittings from NAPA, direct cross ref from those posted above. Could make this go away by simply throwing cash at it, but that is a hunk of change for replacing all those lines. Will be starting my repair in a couple of weeks. Thanks again for posting.

You know you'll have a leak by 1. Your brake warning light is still on 2. Your pedal is soft 3. You see a leak at your fittings.

I had a small one at my 3/16 connection that just needed tightening. I think a vac bleeder is just fine for this job and a good vac bleeder is always a great addition to the tool kit for under $60.

beasticles · October 8, 2015

Just thought I would post an update. I finally got the adapter for my Motive Power Bleeder in last night (the correct adapter P/N is 1108) so after we got home from dinner I went out to bleed the brakes. The rear caliper bleeders were not corroded at all and I had no problem bleeding both of the rear lines. With the power bleeder it only took a minute or two on each rear corner to bleed the air out. Then I went to do the passenger front caliper and managed to strip the bolt which was missing its cap and heavily corroded. After PB Blasting it, heating it and cooling it, trying an assortment of vice grips and other wrenches, I had no luck removing the bleeder bolt and gave up. Disappointed I would now need to replace the calipers (this project just won't end - I think I mentioned in my case that my leaking brake line was the result of me installing new shocks and coil springs in the rear), I called it quits for the night and figured I would just test the brake pedal anyway. Much to my surprise, the brake pedal was firm and after a very cautious test to the end of my driveway, I drove around the neighborhood without issue - the brakes were as responsive as they were before the leak started.

After reading online, I found that most American vehicles have separate reservoirs in the MC for the front and rear brakes, so since I must not have introduced any air into the front lines, I am good to go! I still plan to replace the front calipers (they are pretty cheap) at some point in the future, but for now I am glad to be back on the road. I drove about 20 miles to work today and brakes were fine - no leaks.