Best Way to Remove Rear Brake Line from ABS

GreasyHands · October 4, 2015

I use a line wrench to re-install/tighten the new fittings.

The difficult part is getting the old ones out.

Be careful not to cross thread the new fittings however.

Its pretty fiddly work getting them started if the new lines are not quite square to the abs block. A regular open end wrench will suffice to "run them in" until the final snug up with a line wrench.

Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk

Well thank you. I was just wondering how install would go with so little room. Appears line wrenches ok for install but not so good for removal.....after reading all the other posts and replies.

did you flare new tube or buy ready made lines ?, thanks

anumber1 · October 4, 2015

Well thank you. I was just wondering how install would go with so little room. Appears line wrenches ok for install but not so good for removal.....after reading all the other posts and replies.

did you flare new tube or buy ready made lines ?, thanks

I flare new 1/4" line with new, correct fittings.

beasticles · October 5, 2015

my research shows these are the correct replacement fittings into the abs http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/american-grease-stick-co.-steel-tube-nut-5-per-card-1-4-in.-1-2-20-inverted-blf-44c-5/22190121-P

i've heard it's a 14mm socket, but the replacement was 9/16. so i'm unsure if the truck is metric and the replacement is sae, but it'll be easy enough to find out.

man i tried to get tin snips in there and couldn't they're rusted enough where needle noses might work to just twist it off. will see soon i guess. Been spraying it daily with pb blaster.

I just wanted to post up that I installed a new rear brake line (that runs from the top right port on the ABS to the splitter above the rear diff in the back), and that the AGS tube nuts that Belo linked to are a perfect replacement for the ABS fittings. I actually could have salvaged my old fitting, but the new ones were a perfect fit (and at $2.50 for six nuts - why not!). I used a standard 1/4" tube and nut for the rear splitter - which I was able to source from Advance Auto as well.

I used EasyBend brake line from Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027ABNUC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1which worked great for my application - no issues with simply bending by hand.

I had multiple flare nut wrench sets on hand - but in the end - due to the cramped space, I ended up using a small Craftsman 9/16" open-ended wrench to crack the ABS nut loose and remove (it was slow going as I had to turn it little by little due to the lack of clearance - damn you GM), and for the rear splitter I used a pipe cutter to snip the old line and was able to get a 1/2" (?) socket over the fitting to remove.

I left the old line in place (it was rusted to hell and I didn't want to deal with removing it), and simply threaded the new EasyBend line along the top of the frame rail. I connected the line to the rear splitter first - then slowly threaded the line all the way up to where the ABS unit is.

Thanks, Belo for the tip!

Belo · October 5, 2015

It's not a standard fitting 1/4" fitting, correct.

You have to buy new, correct sized, gm abs fittings and flare the 1/4" line yourself.

Or, you can attempt to use the adapter fittings that are out there but that solution is not ideal due to space limitations on the abs block.

they are 1/4" 1/2-20 fittings. you can get them at autozone or advance. i posted the link above.

So, if you do not mind how did it go tightening the new ABS fittings? Or did you use adapters? Starting mine is a few weeks so I am following these threads close. thanks

It went ok. This is not a job for someone without some patience and a good bit of tools. I pulled out quite a few on various parts of the job.

I'll start by saying that I have 136k on a Buffalo NY truck. Everything is rusted. If you're in the north, prepare on replacing everything you touch.

I started spraying the abs every day with pb blaster for about 4 days in a row. I still could not get anything in there to snip the line. i ended up using this http://www.lowes.com/pd_247218-16878-60151_2z8vjZ2z8vk__?productId=1070275&pl=1&Ntt=kobalt+sawand when i was 3/4 of the way through it just twisted off. Be sure you're wearing gloves and eye protection around the rust and brake fluid. Then the moment of truth. A 9/16" socket was able to get in there and break it loose. Then a 9/16 wrench to get it off. It's very tight and very hard to get the right angles but you'll get it.

Test fitted the new fitting and even without the line attached it's not easy to even finger in. I highly, highly, highly recommend the ez bend brake line. I don't believe this would be possible with pre-bent if you weren't doing all lines. If you're doing all lines then buy whatever you want. But if you're doing all lines then you're also not monkeying in a tight space either. I could not get the new line even hand started so I had to use a very short pair of pliers due to the space and finally got it going. tightened with a wrench. First bleed test it leaked ever so little so a little more pressure and it seems to have sealed. My first time flaring so I hope it holds.

The back ended up being more of pain then I had anticipated. I did purchase a new rear center hydraulic line after seeing what it looked like and glad I did.

anyhow the bolt that holds the bracket to where the line splits also snapped. Had to use a pipe wrench to break the 5/16 fittings free from the old hose. I didn't want to reflare them and thankfully, even rounded and rusted they resealed into the new line. Stripped a bleeder but got it out. still have to get some jb weld on the rear bracket and verify everything is routed "as clean as can be".

It's a time consuming task, and probably not all that bad if your truck isn't rusted to crap. good luck to all that try.

beasticles · October 5, 2015

they are 1/4" 1/2-20 fittings. you can get them at autozone or advance. i posted the link above.

It went ok. This is not a job for someone without some patience and a good bit of tools. I pulled out quite a few on various parts of the job.

I'll start by saying that I have 136k on a Buffalo NY truck. Everything is rusted. If you're in the north, prepare on replacing everything you touch.

I started spraying the abs every day with pb blaster for about 4 days in a row. I still could not get anything in there to snip the line. i ended up using this http://www.lowes.com/pd_247218-16878-60151_2z8vjZ2z8vk__?productId=1070275&pl=1&Ntt=kobalt+sawand when i was 3/4 of the way through it just twisted off. Be sure you're wearing gloves and eye protection around the rust and brake fluid. Then the moment of truth. A 9/16" socket was able to get in there and break it loose. Then a 9/16 wrench to get it off. It's very tight and very hard to get the right angles but you'll get it.

Test fitted the new fitting and even without the line attached it's not easy to even finger in. I highly, highly, highly recommend the ez bend brake line. I don't believe this would be possible with pre-bent if you weren't doing all lines. If you're doing all lines then buy whatever you want. But if you're doing all lines then you're also not monkeying in a tight space either. I could not get the new line even hand started so I had to use a very short pair of pliers due to the space and finally got it going. tightened with a wrench. First bleed test it leaked ever so little so a little more pressure and it seems to have sealed. My first time flaring so I hope it holds.

The back ended up being more of pain then I had anticipated. I did purchase a new rear center hydraulic line after seeing what it looked like and glad I did.

anyhow the bolt that holds the bracket to where the line splits also snapped. Had to use a pipe wrench to break the 5/16 fittings free from the old hose. I didn't want to reflare them and thankfully, even rounded and rusted they resealed into the new line. Stripped a bleeder but got it out. still have to get some jb weld on the rear bracket and verify everything is routed "as clean as can be".

It's a time consuming task, and probably not all that bad if your truck isn't rusted to crap. good luck to all that try.

Looks like we were both working on the same thing this weekend (see my post prior). Sounds like you have a good bit more rust than I did on your vehicle - but glad you got it sorted. I wholeheartedly agree that the EasyBend line is the only way to go - I know I would never have been able to get the line threaded on the ABS unit if it wasn't for the flexibility of the EasyBend. Thanks again for sourcing the correct ABS tube nuts - that was hugely helpful.

Belo · October 5, 2015

Looks like we were both working on the same thing this weekend (see my post prior). Sounds like you have a good bit more rust than I did on your vehicle - but glad you got it sorted. I wholeheartedly agree that the EasyBend line is the only way to go - I know I would never have been able to get the line threaded on the ABS unit if it wasn't for the flexibility of the EasyBend. Thanks again for sourcing the correct ABS tube nuts - that was hugely helpful.

sorry didn't know this was on 2 pages haha. Glad yours worked out as well. It's amazing they putt that unit on the bottom of a truck of all vehicles. Every other hood I've opened it's nice and neat in the bay next to the MC.

beasticles · October 5, 2015

sorry didn't know this was on 2 pages haha. Glad yours worked out as well. It's amazing they putt that unit on the bottom of a truck of all vehicles. Every other hood I've opened it's nice and neat in the bay next to the MC.

Agreed - it just seems like GM intentionally wanted to make certain components of the GMT800 difficult to service. I wouldn't mind the ABS unit where it it (although without question under the hood would be much easier) if GM left you with more room around the sides of the ABS unit to work with, but it is about as cramped as you can be down there. I can see why shops charge anywhere from $1,000 to $2,500 to replace these lines - it's just a pain.

GreasyHands · October 5, 2015

belo and beasticles, thanks for posting.

Parts coming, EZbena and the rest.

I hate to keep harping on this and if it is in your posts I apologize, but did either of you run into and bubble flare versus double inverted? Appears you did not. Only reason I ask is I am getting conflicting reports. Seems some trucks were bubble and others double inverted. Also, some may have 6mm tubing. I am beginning to conclude the difference appears to be a difference between a regular 1/2 ton truck and a HD....but not sure. Not much I can do until I get underneath and remove a line...if it is indeed bubble then off to the part store.

Both good posts, thanks

beasticles · October 5, 2015

belo and beasticles, thanks for posting.

Parts coming, EZbena and the rest.

I hate to keep harping on this and if it is in your posts I apologize, but did either of you run into and bubble flare versus double inverted? Appears you did not. Only reason I ask is I am getting conflicting reports. Seems some trucks were bubble and others double inverted. Also, some may have 6mm tubing. I am beginning to conclude the difference appears to be a difference between a regular 1/2 ton truck and a HD....but not sure. Not much I can do until I get underneath and remove a line...if it is indeed bubble then off to the part store.

Both good posts, thanks

I have a 1/2 ton (2003 MY) and my old flares appeared to be double inverted. Will report back after I use my Motive Power Bleeder to bleed the brakes - am crossing my fingers for no issues with the process.

xXZ-71Xx · October 5, 2015

Perfect advice.

I replaced all my lines and had the ABS empty. I did a 2 person manual bleed and had no issues on any of the lines or the ABS. I think the line about needing a special tool for the ABS is shop crap to charge you $115/hr. It didn't seem any different than my pre ABS vehicles. I do seem to remember I had to do both the rears again. I did the rear passenger side then the driver side, fronts but the pedal didn't get real firm so I started at the back passenger again. That did it, seemed a small bubble of air got back over there from the splitter. Then it was good.

This ^^^ I have the tool and didn't need it on either of my trucks that I replaced every brake line on and the one truck even got a new ABS pump.

Belo · October 5, 2015

belo and beasticles, thanks for posting.

Parts coming, EZbena and the rest.

I hate to keep harping on this and if it is in your posts I apologize, but did either of you run into and bubble flare versus double inverted? Appears you did not. Only reason I ask is I am getting conflicting reports. Seems some trucks were bubble and others double inverted. Also, some may have 6mm tubing. I am beginning to conclude the difference appears to be a difference between a regular 1/2 ton truck and a HD....but not sure. Not much I can do until I get underneath and remove a line...if it is indeed bubble then off to the part store.

Both good posts, thanks

everything i saw stated double flare. i just have a standard 1500 with jc3 brake kit. I haven't exactly put my truck through extreme breaking to verify it's all good but I did some normal and hard stops and I'm not leaking. I bought the OTC double flare tool off amazon after reading really poor things about the free rentals at autozone. Given the pain and frustration getting that line in there i most certainly was praying it all went smooth. figured it's another tool in the stable and still cheaper than paying someone to do the work.

This ^^^ I have the tool and didn't need it on either of my trucks that I replaced every brake line on and the one truck even got a new ABS pump.

here's my understanding of brakes and the abs. disclaimer is that I am no tech or even a great garage mechanic. If you replace any of the lines going INTO the abs (from your MC) you've introduced air into the abs system. If you're replacing only the lines going from abs to the wheels you're NOT introducing any air into the abs. Now I don't exactly know how the abs works, but I know it's a modulator. So will a speed bleeder work? Maybe. Will a vac bleeder or 2 person bleed work? i don't know. I do believe that most of us probably rarely activate our abs. So it might not be till you use it that air might be pushed through. Now if my abs is working i'm probably not in a spot where I want to test it and find out. So doing a couple simulated abs activations wouldn't cause me heartburn and then rebleed. Additionally a small amount of air in the lines will still allow your brakes to work just fine. But if the pedal could be firmer, wouldn't you want that too? Brakes are one of those things to me that I don't even like working on unless it's pads and rotors. A mistake in your work and you could die and so could others. I only did my lines because the mechanic refused to. lol. southern boys affraid of rust.

xXZ-71Xx · October 5, 2015

everything i saw stated double flare. i just have a standard 1500 with jc3 brake kit. I haven't exactly put my truck through extreme breaking to verify it's all good but I did some normal and hard stops and I'm not leaking. I bought the OTC double flare tool off amazon after reading really poor things about the free rentals at autozone. Given the pain and frustration getting that line in there i most certainly was praying it all went smooth. figured it's another tool in the stable and still cheaper than paying someone to do the work.

here's my understanding of brakes and the abs. disclaimer is that I am no tech or even a great garage mechanic. If you replace any of the lines going INTO the abs (from your MC) you've introduced air into the abs system. If you're replacing only the lines going from abs to the wheels you're NOT introducing any air into the abs. Now I don't exactly know how the abs works, but I know it's a modulator. So will a speed bleeder work? Maybe. Will a vac bleeder or 2 person bleed work? i don't know. I do believe that most of us probably rarely activate our abs. So it might not be till you use it that air might be pushed through. Now if my abs is working i'm probably not in a spot where I want to test it and find out. So doing a couple simulated abs activations wouldn't cause me heartburn and then rebleed. Additionally a small amount of air in the lines will still allow your brakes to work just fine. But if the pedal could be firmer, wouldn't you want that too? Brakes are one of those things to me that I don't even like working on unless it's pads and rotors. A mistake in your work and you could die and so could others. I only did my lines because the mechanic refused to. lol. southern boys affraid of rust.

In my two cases I used a 2 person bleed and since I had a tight pedal I decided not to run the ABS cycle, Both truck have had the ABS activated on the slippery northern Michigan winter roads and it didn't affect the brakes at all. Again this is in my own experience with all the lines off at once and it may not be the same for someone else.

"Brakes are one of those things to me that I don't even like working on unless it's pads and rotors. A mistake in your work and you could die and so could others."

We differ in this regard because that is exactly the reason I like to do my own, That way I know they were done the right way with care. After all who cares more about my life or my families life than me.

Belo · October 5, 2015

We differ in this regard because that is exactly the reason I like to do my own, That way I know they were done the right way with care. After all who cares more about my life or my families life than me.

great point. it boils down to your level of confidence and that of your shop.

xXZ-71Xx · October 5, 2015

great point. it boils down to your level of confidence and that of your shop.

Agreed

beasticles · October 5, 2015

We differ in this regard because that is exactly the reason I like to do my own, That way I know they were done the right way with care. After all who cares more about my life or my families life than me.

Could not agree more with this statement. My only caveat being that I always remind myself I am human (will make mistakes) and not an expert, and need to be very careful and deliberate with any repairs, particularly with the brake system.