Jump to content

raced 5.9 R/T dakota


Recommended Posts

Posted
The other night I was bored to tears, out cruising and all. I played around a little, no cops or cars and a broken water line left a puddle across the road 10 ft in front of a stop sign, so I lit em up. It was fun and put me "in the mood" :banghead:  Anyway, at a red light this little dakota R/T toy with a pavement scraping stance and exhaust louder than his kazillion dollar sound system pulls up next to me. Here I am with my 3/4 long wheelbase and I still contemplate racing this dodge. I look over and he stares straight ahead, I inch up, he stares straight ahead. So then I think ####, I'll save my gas on this one. Low and behold he takes off when the light changes while I creep out. I rev it up, though not floored, and keep the exact same pace he does up till about 50 and then get out of it (cops were abundant  :crazy: ). He never got more than a half a car length on me. Then again, I don't know if he was floored, but he was definately racing and should have pulled a lot more than he did on a real truck. Of course, even with mods, those dodge boys can't deal with corvette-derived muscle.  :cool:  :thumb:
Posted

Yeah, when I was at Little River Race Academy just outside of Temple, TX there were two Dakota 5.9L R/T....One was manual, and one was auto, the manual was running 17.6 in the quarter, and the auto was running 17.4's, they both had relatively good jump times both being around .8 sec. Keep in mind that my Jimmy was running 17.2  :crackup: I was very surprised, and shocked. I doubt they were practicing for bracket racing because I culd hear their engines winding up real high  :loser:

 

Tom

Posted
Thats sad about thr R/T my wife drove her stock 6 cylinder four door Cherokee in consistant 17.0 at Temple, with the baby seat still belted in the rear seat.  :thumb:
Posted
Thats great man.  I was wondering what they would run.  There really aren't many r/t's around here, and nobody takes them to the track if they do have one.
Posted

See thats the thing I was so surprised that they were running so bad, then when I read a Car and Driver right after that experience they tested the dakota R/T and it was running constant mid-17's, so I figured man I guess thats right. The funny thing is, a dodge boy wrote in about that article complaining about how innacurate the magazines' test was, he was trying to say that they ran 14's and that C&D was just biased and all sorts if other :bs:  :jester:  C&D responded by saying that they told Dodge that their dakota was way underpowered and something was wrong with it, but Dodge checked it out and said it weas normal :smash: So I really dunno WTF is going on witht the dakota R/T....

 

 

Tom

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Most of the "real" Dakota R/T 2 wheel drives with the 360 in this area run from a 9.50 to 9.90 in the 1/8 mile which would be a high 14 to low 15 second 1/4 mile in pure stock trim. The optional 3.90 gear ratio makes them a bottom end screamer. I think there are a lot of people putting R/T emblems on regular trucks like ricers with their Type R emblems.

Posted
I think there are a lot of people putting R/T emblems on regular trucks like ricers with their Type R emblems.

That's what I'm thinking. I see a 99 to 01 red Ram 1500 around here with R/T stickers on the tailgate and sides and I know Dodge never made a Ram like that. Also have seen some F150 reg cab stepsides with ground effects made up to look like Lightnings-I practically pushed one up the entrance ramp onto the interstate and it could hardly get out of it's own way.

 

And I'm sure that it's only a matter of time until I see a fake Silverado SS too. :cheers:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...