Can a 2016 2500 Denali plow???

tightt · December 16, 2015

Hey fellas,

I'm considering a 2016 2500 Denali Duramax. I really want one WITH the sunroof and sliding rear window. As many of you know, if you add the plow prep, it automatically deletes the sunroof option. Question is: can a truck with a sunroof (and no plow prep) successfully plow?? Could plowing somehow crack the sunroof??

Thanks!!

SMiller · December 16, 2015

Yes it can plow just fine, there is zero difference that would effect the sunroof.

The difference is in the torsion bars and the stiffer bars are completely unneeded.

Like you I like to plow but hate the plow prep as you loose the sliding rear window.

Remove the lower valance, crank up the torsion bars 6 turns, install plow and don't look back, you will love pushing in that truck!

tightt · December 16, 2015

Yes it can plow just fine, there is zero difference that would effect the sunroof.

The difference is in the torsion bars and the stiffer bars are completely unneeded.

Like you I like to plow but hate the plow prep as you loose the sliding rear window.

Remove the lower valance, crank up the torsion bars 6 turns, install plow and don't look back, you will love pushing in that truck!

Thats what I wanted to hear!!! Thank you Sir.

George C · December 16, 2015

I think the removal of the sun roof on the plow package has more to do with the roof beacon wiring and switch interference. I seriously wouldn't worry about cracks.

Also,

Depending on which plow you buy, you don't necessarily have to remove the valance. I use Fisher plows, and their mounts blend in nicely without hacking up the stock look.

I made it clear to my installer to not get lazy and remove the valance, or cut out more material than necessary.

They did a wonderful job, and cut very little.

I would also leave the torsion bars alone. Your torsion bars are already set for the extra eight of the diesel. So, unless you buy an extremely heavy plow like mine, which runs a 1,000 or more, you will be just fine. The "plus" is that your unloaded ride won't be affected. Most average plows run in the 700 lb range.

My plow runs over 1,100 lbs, and the stock torsion bar setting drops the truck less than an inch when I pick it up. My plow installer says he never touches the torsion bar settings, and they're one of the biggest dealers in New York.

The key is ballast. If you run a half dozen sand tubes placed at the very end of your box, you will gain better handling on slippery roads, even out the weight distribution, and lever up the front end of your truck. Driving around with a plow without rear ballast is downright dangerous.

tightt · December 16, 2015

Thanks for all the helpful info. I'm planning to re-use the Western plow (no frills 2008 model) off my old 2008 F350. I also run a Western salt spreader off the rear hitch so that helps with weight distribution.

This brings up another question: I assume the old Western plow receiver on the front of my F350 won't work with my new truck...correct? I haven't traded in the F350 yet and it still has the front receiver, wiring, and also wiring for the salt spreader. Should I get all of this uninstalled prior to trading in?

Thanks!

sahls01gmc · December 16, 2015

The only thing you will have to worry about is warranty. Since you don't have the plow prep, the dealer may frown upon fixing anything that they say could have been caused by the plow.

But mechanically, absolutely your truck will plow just fine with that!

George C · December 16, 2015

Thanks for all the helpful info. I'm planning to re-use the Western plow (no frills 2008 model) off my old 2008 F350. I also run a Western salt spreader off the rear hitch so that helps with weight distribution.

This brings up another question: I assume the old Western plow receiver on the front of my F350 won't work with my new truck...correct? I haven't traded in the F350 yet and it still has the front receiver, wiring, and also wiring for the salt spreader. Should I get all of this uninstalled prior to trading in?

Thanks!

Remove the Western push plate mounts and wiring from your trade. Save your controller, and controller wiring and push plate ends..

Throw all the rest of that stuff on Craigs List.

I'm guessing as easy $400.00-$500.00. Ask your plow dealer for his opinion of value in your area.

You will have to buy a new push plate chassis mount, wiring module and harness, but the sale from the old stuff will cover a lot of the cost.

Your salt spreader wiring is probably not vehicle specific. Check with the place you bought that equipment from. My guess is that you can re use the same wiring for your GM.

I wouldn't worry about warranty.

I highly doubt any reputable GM dealer will deny you a warranty claim for any reason.

If they do, buy another Ford...

SMiller · December 16, 2015

Uninstall all hardware from Super Duty and trade it in to go towards install/hardware of new mount.

Cosmic Charlie · December 16, 2015

Yes it can plow just fine, there is zero difference that would effect the sunroof.

The difference is in the torsion bars and the stiffer bars are completely unneeded.

Like you I like to plow but hate the plow prep as you loose the sliding rear window.

Remove the lower valance, crank up the torsion bars 6 turns, install plow and don't look back, you will love pushing in that truck!

Fisher Plows have instructions where to cut the lower valance and a small amount of bumper metal at the tow hooks area only, and the tow hooks remain - nice cleaner look -

I can show a pix if you like ...

SMiller · December 17, 2015

Fisher Plows have instructions where to cut the lower valance and a small amount of bumper metal at the tow hooks area only, and the tow hooks remain - nice cleaner look -

I can show a pix if you like ...

When I say lower valance I am talking about the plastic piece that is under the bumper, I feel as you guys think I am talking about the bumper itself.

I personally could never stand this ugly piece of flat black plastic that not only is a eye sore but also gets ripped off on parking curbs and snow mounds.

George C · December 17, 2015

When I say lower valance I am talking about the plastic piece that is under the bumper, I feel as you guys think I am talking about the bumper itself.

I personally could never stand this ugly piece of flat black plastic that not only is a eye sore but also gets ripped off on parking curbs and snow mounds.

With a Fisher mount, if you trim the valance, the push plate mounts are almost unnoticeable because most of the steel remains behind it and hidden.

I've read that removing the valance can cost you fuel mileage. With a my truck, I guess it can't see it getting much worse.