Jump to content

22" rims

omadden

By omadden
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

omadden Enthusiast

omadden

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 2015 Chevrolet silverado. It has 22" Chevrolet rims on it. I like the look of them. I live in the country and am an avid hunter and drive a lot of country roads and a little mountain trails. I am on the fence of keeping these rims and buying Terra grapplers 285/45/22 or sell them and get 18 or 20s. Has anyone had troubles damaging rims?

thecodeman Enthusiast

thecodeman

Posted
Posted

Which 22" wheels do you have, and where about do you live? Someone might make you an offer for the trade, you never know. You'll probably want as much sidewall as you can get driving the roads you describe.

Tek74 Enthusiast

Tek74

Posted
Posted

Since you spend a fair amount of time off road, those 22" wheels make no sense.

If you want nicer looking wheels with AT tires, then 20" wheels are the biggest you wanna go with. Probably a 20x9 wheel wrapped in 275/60R20 AT rubber.

Doobs41378 Enthusiast

Doobs41378

Posted
Posted

In my opinion 22" rims look sweet but may not be the rim you need for what you do. I assume you paid more for your truck because they were on there though. Usually those are an upcharge.

HawkTX Enthusiast

HawkTX

Posted
Posted

I had 22 inch wheels on my 2015 Chevy Tahoe and while they looked great the ride was rougher and I ended up with a few flats that appeared to be rim to tire issues (I like to curb swipe...LOL!!!). I decided I would never go bigger than 20's again after that purchase. I sold the Tahoe a few weeks ago for this truck in my avatar. While the Tahoe was a great vehicle I would not recommend the 22 inch wheels at all no matter how good they look. Just my opinion.

Tek74 Enthusiast

Tek74

Posted
Posted

Good point on the "rougher ride" comment. Lower profile tires always diminish the ride comfort. Been there, done that.

omadden Enthusiast

omadden

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys. i was thinking the same thing, just hoping that they would work so i wouldn't have to hassle with selling them and getting different rims.

LilDave Enthusiast

LilDave

Posted
Posted

Mine seem fine, but I don't go off road a lot. I have the 285/45 Nitto G2, but if I were to do it again, I would go with the 305/45 size (a little wider for some wheel protection, and almost an inch taller)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...