1500fp's Silverado 1500 working dog cruiser

[1500fp]

Here is a parts list of some things i have bought, still researching a few others before buying:

 

200Amp Stinger Isolator - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HBYXVS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

 

Dometic CF-050 Fridge/Freezer - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017YHGXC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

 

Battery Hold Down Block and Bolt - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO8ZJM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00& http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Y8KKM8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

 

 

2" Gel Memory foam mattress topper - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019J9AUZW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=APCUWEOU23BHI

 

I could have gotten away with a full size but the full XL (which is a little longer) was only a few bucks more and was amazon prime which would ship in 2 days, i also figured i could use the trimmed off section for my dogs bed.

[1500fp]

0 gauge stinger cable for battery connections.

 

12 gauge wire for starter connection on isolator.

 

Got a handful of connectors needed, some terminal blocks as well.

 

Going to run 4 gauge into the cab terminal block, then off that 10 gauge to the fridge and 8 or 10 to an inverter when I get one in the future.

[1500fp]

Ok more parts list

 

15 AMP Auto Reset Fuse (for dometic fridge, nice so if it blows you dont have to keep putting a new fuse in): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FRHS2BK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

 

10 Gauge Power Quick Connects (these are good for hard wiring devices in the truck, cig outlet plugs are a really shitty connection these are much better): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HCRJUQ4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

 

2x Knukonceptz 4/8 gauge power distribution blocks (for splitting power input in the cab to go to fridge and an inverter, via 10 or 8 AWG wire): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071GKSL2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

 

2x Knukonceptz Battery Terminals (these are nice since i can run multiple outputs from the same connector.) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JK9FTLC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

 

Group 48 AGM Die Hard Battery - http://www.sears.com/diehard-advanced-gold-agm-battery-group-size-48/p-02850748000P

[1500fp]

Pics of 2nd battery install into tray, pretty simple. Drop it in, slide under the lip on the right, then screw down the holder block on the left side.

 

Tools Required:

13mm socket with a LONG extention, or a stubby screw driver

 

 

more pics

[1500fp]

more pics

[1500fp]

Fridge and Wire have arrived! Need to get some fuses and terminals and im good to go.

[1500fp]

Designed some 3d printed brackets that i will use to bolt the fridge down in the back. The grey piece of plastic comes with the fridge and is part of the handle (there are 2 of those plastic blocks screwed into the fridge with a metal tube in between for a handle on each side).

 

 

More pics since this stupid forum has such a small attachment size cap.....

[1500fp]

For those wondering where the factory GM wire tracks are, here ya go. Very easy to access, pull up on the panel then back, pops right out. Then pry the clasps off the black plastic cover over the wire bundle.

 

This is where I will run my 4awg power lines to the back seat area

[1500fp]

Pics of power wire ran to back thru firewall using factory wire tracks.

[1500fp]

More pics

[1500fp]

Fridge and back wall are now securely mounted.

 

I bought some U bolts for the 3 brackets that the factory seat hooks go into, and then some L brackets to secure it to the floor.

 

Then i bent some steel stock into a little J shape to keep the fridge in place. I though I was going to have to bend them at the end as well, but this design is holding up fine in my test drives on the highway and local roads.

 

In order to get the fridge off the mounts, you have to slide it perfectly straight for about 1/2 to 3/4 of a foot, and since there is soda and food in side and its sitting on carpet.... that's not going to be happening by itself. If you slam the brakes the natural motion the fridge wants to do is tip, which actually keeps it in place, there is maybe 1-2mm of slack in the brackets so it doesnt move a noticeable amount but enough to have some free play to easily slide it in and out when removing.

 

Will try and get more pics up soon.

[Daryl Z71]

This is a really cool build.

[1500fp]

OK here are a bunch more pictures of the setup.

 

250A fuse going between the power lines on the batteries, and the power line feeding into the cab.

 

Made a bracket out of some steel stock for the stinger, just bent it with a hammer on a vise.

 

Pro-tip on running the cable thru firewall: allow enough slack so you can make a dip in your wires, if any water does get in the hood gravity will take it to the lowest point of the wire, so make sure the lowest point is not the nipple on the firewall housing!

 

U bolts holding the back wall in place, and the custom brackets i made for the fridge with the fridge removed.

 

Also a nice pic of all the snow i woke up to this morning, gotta love new england! (my truck was covered this morning with 6 inches)

[1500fp]

more pics due to stupid upload limit

 

U bolts holding the back wall against the truck.

 

Custom mount made from steel stock bent in vise to mount the stinger to the frame bar under the hood.

 

Negative Terminal Connections on the Stock battery.

 

Photo showing the dip in the wires going thru firewall (kind of hard to tell from angle)

[1500fp]

Fridge brackets, used those little things where you drill a hole into a piece of wood then hammer it in from the back and it gives you a little screw hole to thread into (not sure what they are called).

 

Metal piece is just metal stock from home depot i cut to length and bent in a J shape in the vise, you just slide the fridge back until it meets the wall and you are good to go. Because of the tightness in the plastic mount on the fridge, and the fact that the weighted fridge is on carpet, it cant slide off the metal bars without human power. When you brake it naturally tries to tip and jams itself in place.