Speaker singal in rear

[Tech1451]

I am looking to soon upgrade the system in my 2014 single cab. I would like to pull the signal from the rear speakers to avoid the loud amped chime but I am trying to find out if the signal sent to the rear speaker is full range. Does anyone know?

 

If they are full range, my plan is to grab that single for the components to add to the doors. Leaving the factory dash speakers for chime.

 

I know I will lose fade function and I'm okay with that.

[GRN69CHV]

62 views, no one answered you. Here's what I know, for the standard audio system, there is a full range signal to all speakers with the dash speakers getting a HPF. Even amplified, the door chimes and turn signal when coming out of the front door is not that bad, it's just the amplified dash speaker that becomes really obnoxious.

[Tech1451]

Ok to lay it all out, I plan to run a set of Hertz comps with the mid in the door and the tweeter in the sails. I was going to run the factory signal to a DQ-61 then to the amps (still undecided). Most likely and BMmk 12 for the lows. I am also planning on leaving the factory dash speakers untouched and hooked to the factory amp.

 

Your saying I can front the front signals to the processor and use those for the front amp and sub amp without the chimes being overwhelming from the component sets? Just trying to get this all clear. Don't want to put all this in and have the chimes so loud that they are unbearable.

[Cynicalpride]

Tech1451,

 

I just did the install on my 2014 Chevy Silverado 1500, I have the 8" Mylink touch screen without the bose. I asked the exact same questions you were asking, and the information just is not available. Chevy can't answer it, no one on this forum could answer it. So I did the only thing any sensible person who wants to install an upgraded sound system in there car could do...

 

I bought a $400.00 Oscilloscope and measured the output myself, what I found was quote interesting:

 

For the most part the signal is flat, however the stereo has some interesting characteristics. Using 0 DB test tones from 80 HZ to 16000 HZ, I played each track and checked the response on the scope. The stereo clips at max volume with 0 DB test tones between 80-125 HZ, again from 315-500 HZ, again at 1250 hertz and again at 12500 hertz. I set my volume 3 "clicks" of the volume knob lower and the signal produced cleanly throughout the entire range. The signal from the front to the rear is identical.

 

That being said, music is rarely played at 0 DB due to the fact that most mastering is done below 0 DB.

 

The stereo only has 4 speakers with the front dash speakers being tapped off the front door speakers, So if you want to keep your factory fade in tact, you can by tapping the signal from the front & rear doors.

 

As far as the door chime, it is absolutely deafening at 60 watts and the tone volume set to low. You can hear it from 40 feet standing outside the truck with all the windows/doors closed. That being said, I'm running 4 60 watt tweeters and 4 60 watt mids.

 

The signal cannot be turned off due to the canbus/gmlan that is used to transmit data from the radio to the BCM. However some clever people have intercepted the signal and filtered it using a micro controller and were able to change it that way.

 

If I get some time this weekend, I'll run the tones through the scope again and screenshot them all so you can get a better idea.

 

Good luck on your install, I just hope you know what you're getting yourself into. I started mine December 27th, It's still not finished, but I'm a perfectionist.

 

Hope this helps!

Ok to lay it all out, I plan to run a set of Hertz comps with the mid in the door and the tweeter in the sails. I was going to run the factory signal to a DQ-61 then to the amps (still undecided). Most likely and BMmk 12 for the lows. I am also planning on leaving the factory dash speakers untouched and hooked to the factory amp.

 

Your saying I can front the front signals to the processor and use those for the front amp and sub amp without the chimes being overwhelming from the component sets? Just trying to get this all clear. Don't want to put all this in and have the chimes so loud that they are unbearable.

[GRN69CHV]

He pretty much laid it out for you. Problem with amplifying the front channels are the high pitched door chimes, especially if amplified at the dash, just puts too much chime sound in your face. So yes, if you take the signal from the rear, split it to feed both rear and front speakers (door or components), you will get a full range sound. I will tell you, it doesn't take a whole lot of power to get to a deafening sound level in a truck, especially these with how quiet the cabs are to start with. Upgrades in mine are really simple, lower power and basically low tech, but you would absolutely not believe the sound quality and sound stage I've been able to achieve.

 

Front Doors Alpine Ty-R 6x9 coax, 120hz HPF

Rear Doors Alpine Ty-S 6.5 Components (mid in rear door crossed at 120hz HPF, tweeter in dash with inline crossover)

Alpine 445U (45x4) Compact Amp (tucked behind glove box, tied in via factory wiring and Metra harness adapters)

Kicker PT250 10" Sub with 100W built in amp

 

Sweet spot seems to be about 30% gain on all amps, factory head unit, run it with approx. 15% treble cut, 15% mid range boost, bass flat with a 10% fade to the front. Volume level on the head unit is good to about 60%, without a signal processor it gets a little dirty after that and honestly by then, it is deafening. Looking at 280 rms total power. I've had big systems years back that had 2-3 times that power level and didn't produce the sound we're getting in this truck. Will tell you, up to about 2 weeks ago, I was really disappointed. Added a small sub, set the doors to 120HPF (12db), added some mid range, cut back the tweets, all is good now.

[5829BMG]

Doesn't splitting the signal off the rear doors lose OnStar, navi turn by turn and phone voice??

[GRN69CHV]

You leave the driver side dash speaker to the factory wiring, it still supports the voice commands, chimes, etc

 

Here's a tip I figured out. Everyone typically set the gains on their amps the same way, they crank up the gain to 75-80%, then run the HU at a lower setting to maintain reasonable volume. Turn down the gain on the amp and chime volume will come down. At first had mine set the same way. Now, I set the gain lower (about 30%), and just listen with a higher volume on the HU

[Cynicalpride]

Amp gains are a way to signal match your head unit to the amplifier, they are not a volume knob, Google how to set gains with a multimeter and there are some great articles on the matter.

 

Also, the reason people set amp gains at 75% volume is to avoid clipping, a clipped signal sends DC voltage to the drivers which can damage your speakers. If you have a scope or a smd dd1, you can test for clipping easily, if not, you can use test tones and listen for it.

 

The front dash speaker is tied in with the front door speakers, if you tap the signal from the door, you're fine, if you tap it at the radio, you'll lose the dash speakers.

[Ruizma414]

Which wire at the harness is the driver side dash speaker for on star phone etc.?

[Strykers_Inc]

Which wire at the harness is the driver side dash speaker for on star phone etc.?

 

Not the best picture but it will give you the info you need.