Jump to content

Turning Parking lights into DRL

metalman101

Recommended Posts

metalman101 Enthusiast

metalman101

Posted
Posted

I recently just got a 2015 Sierra, and my first mod is installing some new Spyder headlights. I wanted to have some LED strips like the SLT's have. My problem is since that my SLE edition does not have DRL LED Strips, the new headlights will not run the strips until the parking lights are turned on. Now I know I can simply move my lights indicator from auto to parking lights, but I would prefer to have my parking lights come on as soon as I turn on my truck and stay that way. Does anyone know how I would be able to do this? Perhaps a software that can switch the parking lights to DRL?

Donolie Enthusiast

Donolie

Posted
Posted

I recently just got a 2015 Sierra, and my first mod is installing some new Spyder headlights. I wanted to have some LED strips like the SLT's have. My problem is since that my SLE edition does not have DRL LED Strips, the new headlights will not run the strips until the parking lights are turned on. Now I know I can simply move my lights indicator from auto to parking lights, but I would prefer to have my parking lights come on as soon as I turn on my truck and stay that way. Does anyone know how I would be able to do this? Perhaps a software that can switch the parking lights to DRL?

"I just switched the locations of low beam supply (pin B) with the park lamp supply (pin E) in the connector. No cutting or splicing wires. No relays. No modification. Can easily go back to stock. Now only the orange parking lights come on during the day when in gear, and it looks sweet. The low beams will come on when I turn the light switch, or when the auto nightlights are tiggered by darkness. This is only confirmed for Silverado because I think the Sierra uses the LEDs for DRL not low beams."

 

I'm just giving you an idea, but not sure on how this works on the GM

Silvern Sentry Enthusiast

Silvern Sentry

Posted
Posted

You are in luck and I guess this is one area I can qualify as 'pro' in. There is no way to rewire the 5 pin Spyder connector nor a software update to make running lights always on. (no reasonable way anyway that I am aware of)

 

You can check out my build thread(link in sig) on how to hook up the Spyder V2(SLT Style) headlights with a special harness to enable LED strip only DRL.

 

What is the exact model number of your Spyder headlights?

TWick Enthusiast

TWick

Posted
Posted

You are in luck and I guess this is one area I can qualify as 'pro' in. There is no way to rewire the 5 pin Spyder connector nor a software update to make running lights always on. (no reasonable way anyway that I am aware of)

 

You can check out my build thread(link in sig) on how to hook up the Spyder V2(SLT Style) headlights with a special harness to enable LED strip only DRL.

 

What is the exact model number of your Spyder headlights?

 

Do you mind linking the exact harness you bought, ill be getting these headlights soon and would like to have the harness when they arrive

 

edit: is this it? http://www.gen5diy.com/GMC/Sierra/P-P-Harnesses7/Headlamp-Harness1/NON-SLT-to-SLT-Headlamp-harness/

metalman101 Enthusiast

metalman101

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You are in luck and I guess this is one area I can qualify as 'pro' in. There is no way to rewire the 5 pin Spyder connector nor a software update to make running lights always on. (no reasonable way anyway that I am aware of)

 

You can check out my build thread(link in sig) on how to hook up the Spyder V2(SLT Style) headlights with a special harness to enable LED strip only DRL.

 

What is the exact model number of your Spyder headlights?

Mine is the model that says "Not compatible on Models w/factory LED Daytime Running Lights" if that helps!

Silvern Sentry Enthusiast

Silvern Sentry

Posted
Posted

Mine is the model that says "Not compatible on Models w/factory LED Daytime Running Lights" if that helps!

 

Unfortunately that version only has a 5 pin connector. Would be no way to make those LED strips act independently of the running light as they are hardwired together inside the Spyder light.

metalman101 Enthusiast

metalman101

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

Unfortunately that version only has a 5 pin connector. Would be no way to make those LED strips act independently of the running light as they are hardwired together inside the Spyder light.

Well thank you so much for the information nonetheless! Maybe some day I will be able to update the software. Great looking truck by the way.

Silvern Sentry Enthusiast

Silvern Sentry

Posted
Posted

Well thank you so much for the information nonetheless! Maybe some day I will be able to update the software. Great looking truck by the way.

 

No worries sorry could not be more help. Keep you eyes out though, you may be able to upgrade to a V-2 at some point anyway cheap as people start stripping their 2014's and 15's for trade in there will be some floating around for cheap. I can try to post any I see on the forums since I pay attention to that kind of stuff. I am going to be installing the matching taillights soon as well so check back on my build for those if you are curious.

 

The harness costs about $200 free shipping in lower 48 states but if you ask real nice and talk to Jarred he can give you a discount probably just tell him Kyle from Canada sent you (I am sure its just a facebook discount or something available to anyone anyway) but he is a cool dude and a real 'nice go out of his way type of guy' as he was emailing with me on his Vacation.

 

Just curious metalman01 but did you install the Spyder lights yourself or pay someone?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...