Dash Speakers - Sundown Audio SA-2.75 Installed

[GRN69CHV]

 

 

It sounds like you just cut and did your own connections but don't they make just a adapt from the factory wire harness to the aftermarket speaker so you don't have to cut the factory plugs. Im looking at replacing the dash speakers as you did and doing a kicker vss power stage with that and just leaving the rest of the factory system

 

also just to clarify are these the sundown speakers your purchased

 

https://www.amazon.com/SA-2-75FR-Sundown-Performance-Neodymium-Speaker/dp/B00NO70ZO2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480623599&sr=8-5&keywords=sundown+speakers

 

Yes, those are the speakers.

[Boyd_835]

 

Yes, factory 8" Deck. Just tapped into speaker wires coming direct off the head unit. Factory Bose is another story and presents a whole different set of issues as I understand it. Dash speakers with Bose are same size in a 3.2 ohm speaker. I don't see why you couldn't run a 4 ohm speaker in it's place. Wouldn't want to go to a 2 ohm speaker, don't know how stable the amp would be. Running a 4 ohm speaker vs a 3.2 ohm, maybe you'll lose a few watts of power? Doubt you would notice.

 

As for the rear doors, did require some cutting to fit the 8's into the doors and some mild trimming of the door panels. I already had the 8's so used them, if I didn't already have them, in hindsight, I might have gone a different way. First time around, I added sound deadener, but not enough, was getting some sheet metal buzz. Replaced these with 6.5" components ( this is when I put the tweeters in the dash) and added a compact Kicker self powered sub. This was a step in the right direction bringing the sound stage back to the front of the truck and adding a little deep bass. When got the truck back from having the deer hit repaired, they had removed sound deadener from the drivers door (I had pulled the speaker on that side prior to sending it into the shop). I decided to try the 8's in the rear doors again, only this time adding more sound deadener to both the outer skin and the inner skin, focusing on sealing up the doors. Made all the difference. Kicker compact sub is on the shelf in the garage.

 

 

Another question I was looking at eh alpine speaker kit and they have 8inch woofers for the front doors. Did you try and see if those would fit without any modification? because alpine says there kit is plug and play. I was thinking of doing 8s in the from doors with the sun down 2.75s in the mid and adding some tweeters with crossovers in the door panel to make it a full sound stage up front with just some coaxials in the back.

[Nasty]

The 2.75is a full range, you won't need tweeters

[Boyd_835]

The 2.75is a full range, you won't need tweeters

 

 

Well I'm going to assume there is a gain from having tweeters because in the alpine speakers kit they added tweeters with the mid 3inch and put 8inch in the doors. Im going to do the same and follow that lead later at a dsp and amp

[GRN69CHV]

8" woofers probably will fit in the front doors. Alpine kit has an adapter bracket that appears to be offset to allow the door panels to go back on without interference. When I put the 8" in the rear doors, I had to do some very minor trimming of the door panel.

 

I have Alpine Ty-R Coax in the doors. tweeter is low, so does get lost a little, but you still can hear highs. SA2.75 does reach fairly high, just not as defined as a good tweeter. I like the Alpine setup with the 8" woofers, mids and tweeters. Once pricing starts dropping, I might consider swapping it in.

[Nasty]

Well I'm going to assume there is a gain from having tweeters because in the alpine speakers kit they added tweeters with the mid 3inch and put 8inch in the doors. Im going to do the same and follow that lead later at a dsp and amp

I'm looking at it from an Sq point is all. But it is personal preference. I'm doing 2 way active. In Sq less is more. The transition between the speakers doing it that way is easier

 

But just because alpine does it doesn't mean it's right

 

Again it is a lot of personal preference, I'm just giving you knowledge

[Boyd_835]

I'm just learning and I like the input i found the kit on Amazon for the alpine speaker upgrade so I ordered it to check it out they have no questions asked return policy so I might just trace out the speaker adapters and return it then I'm going to be using focal 8inch components up front and focal coaxial in the rear 6.5 . Later adding a dsp and amp . I'm trying to avoid subs if I have to I may do one 10 under the rear seat but I don't want to . I use the space with the seats folder up so much that that would suck to loose that space

[Nasty]

It is a learning experience. I've been doing Sq for years. And I'm still learning. But if you.ant to save money. I suggest getting an 8" mid bass for the front door and a 2" or so full range for the dash. And active capable amp will help a lot unless you.want a dsp.

 

With Sq less is more. You might need a sub depending on what mid bass you.get.

[Boyd_835]

I ordered focal iss 200 for 8 inch mids . Where have people mounted there amps ? Pics yeah I think I'm going to do components in the front and leave the 2 inch in the dash and see how that is

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ISS200/Focal-Integration-ISS-200.html?tp=106&awkw=75646025905&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=47721022105&awdv=m

 

Then just focal coaxial in rear I didn't feel like I needed any front stage in the back and with focal I figured the quality is worth the money . Probably be using a dsp with a diamond audio 4 channel amp

[Nasty]

I personally don't have speakers in the rear of any of my vehicles. I would try out just the front stage first. Then if you feel it needs a rear, add the rear fill in

[Jeff5347]

I have the tweets along with the sa2.75 dash speakers and it is a difference. I have the sa's with a bandpass xover from 400-3500hz, the tweets take care of 3500hz and up. My door mid bass handles 80-400 hz and the sub from 80hz and down. Having speakers dedicated to the freq they can handle comfortably eliminates beaming (once speakers beam they are easier to hear where their coming from, beaming is bad in speakers), let's the speaker have less of a work load to handle. Like Nasty said its a trial and error but there is no wrong way. Some like 2 way cause you can tune it better and some like 3 way to really fine tune. I like a 3 way as it let's the speakers hit the freq they're intended to hit. Just because a manuf says their 2.75 inch speakers can hit 16k doesn't mean they should.

Most of all...Do some research, go on diyma, caraudio.com, and just watch a crap load of videos on YouTube. A lot of junk on YouTube but check out https://m.youtube.com/#/user/CarAudioFabrication

 

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[Boyd_835]

thanks ! does anyone have any back round with woofers etc ? are they legit stuff ? i was ordering from them because they were cheaper than crutchfield but cancelled the order because i was getting a little nervous that they weren't a certified dealer. So i ended up buying them through crutchfield in scratch and dent for like 30$ more figured it was worth it for the piece of mind

[Nasty]

They are good. I've used them quite a bit. What are you looking for. There are ways better places

[Boyd_835]

They are good. I've used them quite a bit. What are you looking for. There are ways better places

I just order some focals and ended up buying from Crutchfield on the focal iss 200 component for 296$ and the rear focal 63/4 from Amazon via car toys store for 120$

[CWilliams]

I have been looking at these sundown 2.75's to put in the dash, good to hear some feedback on them. I am trying to put together a simple build and was hoping I could get some help from you guys. In my '15 crew cab non bose, i pulled signal from both rear speakers to my Lc2i. I only ran a sub with this though. I am looking to use a set of hertz components I used in my ram a couple years ago and still pull signal from rear speakers and run a 2 channel amp for my components up front and use the mono amp for my sub. And keep the sundowns in the dash off of h/u power. This way, I could amp the front doors, and not have loud chimes. All i would have to do is move my fade on the head unit more toward the rear to get a balance from the dash speakers and front doors correct? I thought about using the alpine 45x4 power pack, but have heard several people say you have to turn the gains pretty much all the way down to keep your ears from bleeding when the chime goes off. What is the benefit of even using the alpine amp if the gain is all the way down? I would expect it's not giving much more power at all over the head unit like that. Any help is appreciated, thanks.