Jump to content

Weight distribution/sway setup for boat


Recommended Posts

Posted

A couple months ago I went out and bought a project boat. Now I need to tow it safely and thus need a new weight distribution system as the ones I have aren't rated high enough. I'm planning on the total weight of the boat and trailer being 13k, or even a bit over (yes that pushing the limits of the truck). Catch 22 is I can't get it to a scale to weigh it as I still need to put 6 tires on the trailer and my current shank is probably right at it's limit and I know the ball is only 10k, no clue what the head is rated for. Adding to the fun is it's a pole tongue so I'll need an adapter thus reducing my options as well as having surge brakes.

 

4cd45ac78a162ffc0b53edd5a2ae7be1.jpg is a picture of the mistake. It will be a while before we get it out on the road for actual use, but I need to move it about an hour north of where it is pretty soon.

 

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/RP58393.html is the pole adapter I think I need and http://www.etrailer.com/comparison.aspx?pc=RP66157&pc2=RP66561are the two weight distribution systems I'm looking at. Going heavier just for when I get a newer truck plus I always like going bigger.

 

2a80c432c43ebadc211198579234c365.jpg Picture of the boat hooked up to the truck. It was only towed about 2 miles from where we bought it to here and I didn't adjust anything. It's odd seeing one of my trucks sitting level in the back.

 

So helpful thoughts or suggestions on other systems would be nice since I know there are a lot of you on here that tow.

Posted

Thats a nice looking 3500 and boat to. You shouldnt have a problem puling her around with that truck.Sorry I wasnt answering your question but I like your setup.

Posted

Thats a nice looking 3500 and boat to. You shouldnt have a problem puling her around with that truck.Sorry I wasnt answering your question but I like your setup.

 

Thanks, it will be even better when we're done redoing the interior and it's cleaned up. Truck will handle it just fine, just wanting to make sure I do it right. Some of the bridges in Florida get pretty tall and I want some sway control so I don't go flying around when the wind hits these two things that have the aerodynamics of bricks.

Posted

I'm not sure your experience with boats but In my experience towing boats for work...I think you'll be fine without wdh.

 

Towing a boat at about 14500 on a tridem axle trailer with a 3500drw. Been to the scale with it and the tongue was sitting at about 1500lbs. Which is less than the hitch rating.

 

Truck tows it great. I've never felt anything resembling the sway that I feel while towing my rv with my 1500. Boats just seem to tow so much nicer.

 

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

That's pretty much the extent of my boat towing.

 

263141b432cd3919ba1138240c69bda7.jpg

 

Certainly be cheaper to not get a WD set up with sway. Just seems weird to me not have have the bars and stuff. Other problem seems to be, at least on etrailer, limited to 14k trailer weight for the pole frame adapter. Decided since a new hitch is under $300 I might as well get a beefier one that handles more weight.

Posted

That's pretty much the extent of my boat towing.

 

263141b432cd3919ba1138240c69bda7.jpg

 

Certainly be cheaper to not get a WD set up with sway. Just seems weird to me not have have the bars and stuff. Other problem seems to be, at least on etrailer, limited to 14k trailer weight for the pole frame adapter. Decided since a new hitch is under $300 I might as well get a beefier one that handles more weight.

Most trailers that heavy are expected to be a gooseneck or 5th wheel...you have something out of the norm and that's why you are funding limited options.

 

What is the rating of your current receiver? If the weight is within the specs of the receiver, then I would look into ball mount options as its very unlikely you would exceed the tongue weight of your 3500. Solid ball mounts can be had for even 2 inch receivers that are rated at 20k pull, 2000 tongue, and the balls for a gooseneck can be had for over 30k pull...I know, I have two. If you have a 2.5inch, you options are a lot better.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Most trailers that heavy are expected to be a gooseneck or 5th wheel...you have something out of the norm and that's why you are funding limited options.

 

What is the rating of your current receiver? If the weight is within the specs of the receiver, then I would look into ball mount options as its very unlikely you would exceed the tongue weight of your 3500. Solid ball mounts can be had for even 2 inch receivers that are rated at 20k pull, 2000 tongue, and the balls for a gooseneck can be had for over 30k pull...I know, I have two. If you have a 2.5inch, you options are a lot better.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Factory is 2.5" but only rated 13k at 1500 tongue. I don't remember what the size of the new hitch was I think 2.0." haven't bought anything yet. Still gives me a lot more options not getting the bars and built in sway though so I guess I'm trying that route. If I don't like how it feels we'll weld plates on the tongue instead of that fancy adapter.
Posted

That's factory? Interesting, I guess that's the hitch or what the manual says the truck is rated for? Most I've seen is the new ones at 14-15k for towing. The actual hitch rating could be different. Not that I've looked all that hard. Think I read in another thread ford's are 17k or so.

Posted

That's 2012 factory 2.5inch...I'm remembering those numbers so might be faulty...but I know it's higher than my truck's rated capacity.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

The LMM or 07 to 10 trucks I consider the OEM hitch weak.

Posted

The LMM or 07 to 10 trucks I consider the OEM hitch weak.

I've seen quite a few grumbling about oem hitches. I was looking at the one you have on your 2500 but ended up going with something different. Such a pain to match up hitch, shank, and head ratings. Trailer weights and tongue weights don't match on those components, drives the OCD in me nuts.

Could the factory hitch be replaced with a higher capacity aftermarket?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Yes, ordered a different one this morning.

I know you can get a pole adapter for the Equal-i-zer 4 point hitch.

 

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=59

 

I assume you have surge brakes on the trailer. That limits what WDH you can use. The 4 point will work but not sure about others.

 

The two your are looking at also are fine for surge.

Yeah all priced out it was over a grand. Going to try a few local pulls once the stuff I ordered this morning comes in before I invest that much. Then again if what I bought doesn't work probably end up costing me more than the grand I originally priced out. The joys of life lol
Posted

Not for nothing, but the hitch issues are not limited to GM...

 

While the 3rd Gen Dodge had a hybrid 2" Class 4/5 that worked for most, the 2nd Gen had a 2" Class 3, and most often the rear frame rails bent when the hitch started to fatigue, leaving you with a real mess...there was even a recall that included two extra brackets to stiffen it up. I think most Dodge owners that really towed often changed out to a hitch that was called the "beast" by Reese at that time? That was one of the first 2.5inch receivers offered by the aftermarket.

 

The manufacturers are only now catching up to the components that are sometimes necessary on these trucks.

 

Sounds like you have it figured out, good luck!

 

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 353 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...