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Factory non Bose connection to aftermarket amplifier

Brent Lake

By Brent Lake
in Modifications & Accessories

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Brent Lake Enthusiast

Brent Lake

Posted
Posted

Hi all, I'm in the process of piecing together the parts to upgrade my stock stereo system and could use some input. The plan is to replace the front speakers with a set of Alpine SPR 60c components, and the rear speakers with a set of Alpine SPR 60's along with one 10 inch sub in a sealed box. The amp will probably be an Alpine PDR-75 5 channel. My question is concerning the interface between the head unit and amp. I was told by a guy that the stock unit was full range and wouldn't require anything more than an LOC. Another shop told me that I would need either an Audio Controls LC7I or something like the JL Audio Fix 86. What have you guys used successfully to make the interface? Thanks in advance for your help!

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

For me I'm using 2 locs. I don't know how gm played with equalization but mine so far sounds good. I'm running 3 way active with 3 amps total. 2 precision power amps...a 900.4 which drives my mids (dash speakers ..sundown sa2.75) and midbass (pioneer 1730 component). The 900.4 has low/ high and bandpass so the mids are set to 400 to 4k hertz and on the 1730 I ditched the pioneer passive crossover for the mid bass and have it band passed from 70-400 hertz. The 1730 tweets are ran on an pp i 1000.4 and use the pioneer passive crossover and they sit on the dash at the a pillar aimed at the rearview. I have a jbl gt5-12 in a 1.5 cuff box behind my console and have it amped with and old profile California 600 bridged. The way I wired this is the front signal (fl and fr) are wired to a loc and then of the set of RCA's I split them 3 ways..1 rca to the mid amp, 1 to the tweet amp and 1 to the mb amp. To get the sub I have a separate loc off the factory signal and that rca is to the sub amp. In hindsight a lc7i would have been a little less work but if you plan on really getting a good system wait and get a DSP. Minidsp makes the minidsp 6x8 which can split the signal to 8 CH. That would get rid of the locs, allow you to run active, equalize each ch, time align each channel, run any type of crossover points to each channel....ect. Only 275 and from reading reviews well worth it.

 

But to the point you were asking....the way mine is set right now...it pounds, sounds very clean and super loud...

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Translation ...my stereo took a bit to put together..lol

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

GRN69CHV Enthusiast

GRN69CHV

Posted
Posted

Just use line converter (unless the amp has speaker level inputs). Easiest way to integrate is via factory wiring. Use Metra 70-2057 Amp Bypass Harness on amp output side, Use Metra 71-2107 on amp input side. You only need the green plug/harness.

 

http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-2057

http://www.metraonline.com/part/71-2107

 

PS- I tried components up front with tweeter in the dash location, didn't like it. Factory dash location is so far forward and the front door location is so far down that all the mids were buried and very weak, also the tweeters reflecting off the dash were harsh. Guys that have effectively ran components up front are mounting the tweeters on the door trim at the mirror location or on the A-pillar trim piece. I highly recommend the Sundown Audio SA-2.75 as replacement for the factory dash speaker. Have these in mine with Alpine 6x9 Ty-R in front doors. Also, keep in mind, the more power you add, the louder the door chimes will get, there's no way around it without eliminating hands free via splitting front and rear signals off the rear feed only. What you might consider (something I am still thinking about doing once I get some free time) is to split the front signal (dash speakers fed direct from head unit / front door speakers are amplified). Chimes will still be amplified, but it won't be that in your face loud.

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