Jump to content

2014 silverado Multiple issues/looking for help


Recommended Posts

Posted

So I have a 2014 Silverado, 5.3, 3.42 gears, 6 speed, 70K

 

1. I have noticed when the truck is warm the idle will drop to 400-450rpm, make the truck stumble and correct. It only happens after a spirited run on the freeway or after pulling heavy, coming to stop at like a red light at an exit ramp. Taken to dealer several times and no solution. Tried fuel cleaner, MAF cleaner, cleaned throttle body, etc no resolve.

 

2. bubbles or gurgling coming from heater core. Dealer say there is not air, did vaccum on cooling system twice. Yet, when the truck comes to a stop and it is quite, there is a clear water/gurgling sound on the passenger side. Heater core air trapped? how to get it out?

 

3. water pump squeal and squeak. Been replaced once already, no doing it again. Do the water pumps just suck this bad?

 

4. Truck aging and noticing rougher shifts when a first drive until up to operation. Loosing the nice feel it had when new. this normal?

 

Help help. Dealers are not helping unless there is a bulletin

 

Thank you

Posted

Any aftermarket accessories installed on the vehicle? Has the battery died recently or any tune in any modules?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

mine was having rougher shifts for a while. I brought it to the dealer last week and the trans is blown. 96k miles. pretty sure the shtty stock trans tuning did her in.

 

at least powertrain warranty is there

Posted

Really? Stock tranny and tune and at 96K it dumped out? I lost my 2010 tranny at 66K and I was pissed. Seems now a days we are sacrificing longevity for fuel mileage.

 

Anyone have any ideas about idle?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • WOW, something we agreed on. I only bought at sticker twice. A 94 impala ss and an Acura intagra type r. Made money on the first. Still have the second.
    • I prefer new, but not without a deal. Historically I've bought severely aged new inventory, leftover model year, unpopular configuration kind of stuff that sits around on dealer lots until they just want it gone. $10k off MSRP kind of stuff on a mid-priced truck. That really, really helps knock down that first year depreciation. It also requires being somewhat flexible on colors and options. I wouldn't buy a 4 cylinder if I was looking for an 8 cylinder, but if I got blue paint instead of black, or a great deal was lacking a minor option, I'm willing to overlook those things for savings.   Used <> used. Condition and history are everything. If I'm buying used I'm looking for cream of the crop. The truck from the guy who religiously pampers it, and then decides a year later he wants newer and nicer. NOT the ex-rental vehicle, or the crew cab traded in by the family with 7 kids who like to throw food, and the oil only got changed when there was time long after the oil life monitor started alerting.
    • @Grumpy Bear the conclusion from your post about doubling engine life has me curious. Are we literally talking an expected life of 250,000 miles potentially becomes 500,000 miles with a step up in filtration for fresh oil at "the oil factory" when it's bottled? I know you said that's a single variable among many, but, that's significant if the implication extends that far into a real world use case. I would think the oil marketing folks would really eat that up and make it known.   Particles introduced during oil change is a fairly easy one to avoid, but probably not intuitive as one would think. I.e. using a clean funnel. But...what was it wiped with? Paper towel leaves behind little fibers. A solvent if not dried is not something one would want to introduce into their engine with clean oil. And, keeping the oil filler neck clean and free of buildup.. Look at some guys engine bays and they're an absolute mess. Some say that's better than the drawbacks of cleaning it. I'm not a buyer of that idea.   I've also wondered if "flooding" the top end of the engine with oil while filling is a bad idea. During normal lubrication the oil flows in a gutter back into the galleys. But if you flood the area you're potentially washing the top of the rockers, springs, and other areas which may not get much oil wash normally, and you're mixing all that into the new oil. I just don't have the patience to pour slowly. 😆    
    • It was a bad pump, i had a dealer next day the pump. Gm part #86591535. Tools needed 10mm socket, pliers for hose clamps, 1/2gal of Dexcool. About 30mins to remove and install, pump located near oil filter on driver's side frame rail. I had a local mobile mechanic delete the code, he had a snap on scan tool. My scanner could not delete the code. I drove back home about 700 miles since then, and no check engine light. Hope this helps someone in the future in the same situation i was in. Thank you to all that helped me.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...