GrumpyGhost Rusty 1999 GMC Sierra Z71 Ongoing build!

[GrumpyGhost 27]

Anyone have a recommendation for a brake controller for my truck, I pull this trailer maybe once or twice a week and my stock disc brakes don't do to well with it. I know the newer 2005 front cailpers are in this trucks future, but not until I invest in new rims and tires. The trailer has electric brakes that have never been used since new. They looked in good condition when I had to replace the wheel bearings a couple months back.

I have tons of tread and really don't want to invest in rims and wheels yet. I found some sweet tow mirrors on Amazon but I'm honestly not to fond of the tow mirror look and blind spots they create, but backing this trailer up with these tear drop mirrors is more of a pain then having big ugly ears on Grumpy.

I'm Also considering buying an Android double din touch screen radio, it will involve some modding of interior dash but I think it's doable since this truck only supports single din radios. Idk though because I can also just buy a mount for my tablet which has 4g and use it through the Bluetooth on my current aftermarket radio.

As for the vinyl wrap, I cancelled the order because right across the street from my shop is a wrapping business, actually it is the building behind the trailer in the photo. They said they could do what I want for about $600 or so. I'll probably go that route in the end as I'm sure I can do it, but I don't really have the time for it.

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[GrumpyGhost 27]

So I decided to test a theory I've had tonight, my door locks no longer will lock with the power locks, so for last few years ive had to lock my truck manually. They did still have enough juice to unlock so it didn't bother me to much.

In order to replace the door lock actuator with a vehicle that has vats, keyless entry, and so on, you have to replace the entire door latch assembly which costs like $200! Crazy!!

I decided that there has to be a way to just swap out the motor as it is only thing wrong with my current ones and i wanted to try just buying a cheap door lock actuator from Amazon for $30.

I took tons of photos but I can only post 9 at a time so I skimmed them down to major parts of the parts swap.

Basically I broke open the original door lock actuator after removing the door panel and entire door latch assembly from my truck to remove the locking mechanism from the latch.

In the photos the original part is all black and the new one I bought has a white motor. The only thing I had to do was remove the top covers from both door lock actuators and swap them over. But I ran into a snag. There is a sensor that is plastic welded onto the outside that is for unlocking the door with a key and not setting off the alarm.

Also I should note I only did this on the passenger side as a test. My thinking was that if it works I won't have to reach over to lock the door anymore before exiting my truck.

To remove the sensor from the old actuator cover I grabbed my soldering iron and melted the plastic. Then I saw there were no holes for the sensors connectors to go through on the new cover, so I melted some holes with the soldering iron and made it work. Then broke off some plastic from old actuator and melted the sensor onto the new cover.

I then hot glued the new cover onto the original actuator mechanism followed by some melting of corners with soldering iron for good measure.

I bolted it back into the door latch mechanism and reinstalled.

So in my very messy late night essay of a write up I did here, the outcome was only halfway successful.

The door lock functions great with the key fob, and I can definitely tell it has plenty of power as my driver side door lock actuator sounds tired compared to the new one.

The only problem I ran into is that I still have to lock the dang door manually because I've had an issue where my truck thinks a door is open and automatically unlocks the doors if I push the lock button with key fob. My interior lights are also on constantly and I've just been using the dome override for about 5 years now ha-ha.

Basically if you want to save $170 dollars, buy the crap cheap door lock actuator and swap over the new motor to the old mechanism.

Now I just have to get my wiring issue figured out so I can lock my truck with the key fob. Also still need to order the driver side and do the same mod.

This was easier than you think, it took me a couple hours but I didn't have a back up and if I broke something, it would have been very hard to close my door lol

I seen other people cut off the door ajar part and superglue it onto the new lock door actuator, but I didn't like that idea and have never seen someone do it the way I just did.

Also I may have to buy a new door latch assembly for my driver side anyhow as I'm pretty sure it is the one causing my interior lights to stay on, as I said before, the driver door was almost ripped off the truck and I dragged it along before actually fixing it and I'm pretty sure it wore out or broke the mechanism.

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[GrumpyGhost 27]

Something else I never shared is that I have halfway started putting blue led lights in my interior lights, I did the window switches but I couldn't get my camera to focus on them for a good picture.

anyhow I think im going to order some more Leds and slowly work on making my interior lights blue. I'm also going to replace the ones currently in the speedo as they were super cheap ones and now they occasionally flicker on and off, I think they get too hot and go out, then they magically come back on. They are fickle, but it hasn't bothered me much until recently

I spend an awful lot of time in my truck driving for work these days and all the little crap that never bothered me while I was in college are starting to eat away at me. I used my truck to drive pretty much back and fourth from home during college, so i didn't spend the time in it that I do now.

Don't get me wrong, I took care of this truck, but I never planned on keeping it this long, so now I'm just trying to make it more to my liking since I'll probably never get rid of it.

Also I have Cheap HIDs 10,000k in my low beam headlights and my fog lights. Which the dogs lights I just fixed like 2 years ago, before that they didn't even work for like 4 years prior.

They are the original fogs lights that came with the truck, the lens fell out on them and burnt up the bulbs. I decided I wanted fog lights after my friend got a light bar on his truck. So I figured I'd just install Hids and they're be just as bright as his light bar.

Long story short, I removed the fog lights from truck, washed them, spray painted the long gone chrome reflectors with a chrome like paint. And bought some silicone and acrylic sheeting for $20 bucks. Cut out the acrylic and siliconed them into the housings and 2 years later they still haven't gotten condensation or fallen off the truck. Also my lights ended up being brighter than my buddies light bar. So I saved like $200 and just used what I had and got better results. The hid kit was cheaper than buying new halogens too.

As for the trailer brake controller, I decided I'm not towing the trailer with my truck anymore unless absolutely needed, I have drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic brake pads, my stopping power sucks even if I do add a controller, I need to swap my pads over to semi metallic and get air bags for the leaf springs as the trailer makes my truck sit ugly because it's leveled. Also need bigger rims so I can go to pull a part and get some bigger front cailpers from an 05 or newer truck.

I just can't justify it right now when I have pretty much brand new tires, and a full front end rebuild in the trucks future, I'm also gunna swap over to electric fans and bigger radiator.

My next post will probably either be about more led lights, or I ordered new knock sensors as I still have the originals sitting in mine, also new intake gaskets and spark plugs and wires.

Sorry for the essays, been awhile for me, but I'm slowly getting to the goal of junkyard turboing Grumpy. Just gotta get everything else right before I go and throw some power at her. Plus you know even a junkyard turbo setup is more money than I should spend on a almost 200k engine. Knock on wood I can't believe my trans is doing so good still. I need to drain it here soon and add bigger cooler. So much to do, no time or money to do it all at once.

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[GrumpyGhost 27]

What's to come over the holidays for Grumpy!

Can I save my transmission? I hope so!

I have a hard shift from first to second. It has always been a little sluggish, but recently it has gone from occasionally noticable to every single time I take off.

I'm going to be replacing the 1-2 accumulator, filter change, and possibly install Corvette servo. I haven't done all the research on the Corvette servo yet, but im only gunna install it if I don't have to reprogram the trans for it.

Also I'll be doing other maintenance I mentioned in my last post.

As I've said many times before, I'm no expert, but I've read here and there that this is a common issue on the 4l60e trans and a "simple" fix. I also heard that if not fixed early on the clutches probably won't live much longer.

So I hope not, but ill probably be doing a 4l80e swap within the next 6 months or so. Hopefully longer. Im basically waiting for the trans to go out before I start doing my "junkyard" mods to Grumpy. But I also figured i'd have more time as well. Like next Christmas.

I found a place that has rebuilt 4l80e transmissions for $850 plus a $200 core charge. But I don't wanna drop that kinda cash just yet. Also the torque converter I'd need for my stock engine will not be favorable for a turbo. I suppose I could go ahead and do a cam swap and solve that issue. But I also could just pick up a used 4l60e for $400 bucks and save my money till I'm ready to do the major build.

Decisions decisions!

I'm also kinda on the lookout for a complete 6.0 with the trans since my 4.8l is a first year gen III and the rods aren't as strong and doesn't have floating pins. Plus I mean, who doesn't want to 6.0 swap their truck.

Any tips or input/info on this subject would be greatly appreciated. (The trans issues stuff, not the swapping of trans and whatnot)

As always sorry for the book and enjoy your Christmas shopping!



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[GrumpyGhost 27]

I haven't posted on here for awhile, but here are some photos of my upol raptor liner. It has held up wonderfully and I haul scrap metal and such with sharp edges all the time. It does leave a white mark in the liner when something scratches it, but it hasn't come close to wearing through to the paint underneath.

I ended up having to replace my TPS sensor and that also cleared up my transmission issues. I did go ahead and do a filter and fluid change to the transmission as well.

I have a ton of parts sitting at the shop for the truck, but it has been running so well lately I haven't found a reason to take it out of commission to do maintenance.

My original starter finally went out and I replaced it with a cheap Chinese Amazon starter for $65. Other than that it's been running well and I drive it almost everyday.

I have noticed that my oil pressure has dropped down to 18-21 psi, but it has done this before and I replaced the oil pressure sensor to fix it the first time. I'm guessing it's leaking again or it's clogged up somehow. Or my oil pump is going out but let's hope it's not that!

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[GrumpyGhost 27]

So I have done a few things to the Grumpy and I decided to group each project into different posts over the coming days/weeks when I find the time to sit down and write these novels of posts.

Anyhow if you all saw my post awhile back of my hack job to replace the actuator motor for the passenger door lock, it failed.

The hot glue I used along with the soldering iron to melt the plastic did not hold up.

The motor slipped and would not unlock and it was only half a victory as it still would not lock the door, only unlock.

I have been scavenging the local lkq pull apart yard every once in awhile to find "upgrades" for my truck and decided to pull the door lock assemblys out of a 2001 suburban for both passenger and driver side.

I didn't post pictures of the new lock assemblys but only the old ones I took out. The white motor is the passenger assembly and the black motor is the driver side assembly. They are identical to the "new" ones. I found out that my original driver side assembly was completely broken in half and causing the computer to read as the driver door being open all the time.

I also found that I had to bend some metal on the driver door where the new assembly goes because it wouldn't fit. The door was so out of whack from way back when when I had my accident of the driver door almost being ripped off.

I had to readjust the striker and also found I had it mounted backwards from when I took it off to paint the truck. I spent probably an hour and a half trying to figure out why my driver side door would not latch after replacing the assembly. I was having washers and adjusting like crazy to get the door to close. But it's all good to go now!

So as I have said before, I have had to use the dome override switch for the last 4 years or so cause the interior lights would stay on. Also my radio would shut off instantly after turning the key off instead of staying on until a door is opened.

All that is fixed now and my interior lights work like they used too or are supposed too. So I got the driver side fixed and locking and unlocking using the buttons on the arm rest. Yes finally!!!

Then I do the passenger side which took about 15 mins. But I came to find it still will only unlock and not lock. So either the assembly I pulled is bad like my original, or I have a wiring issue somewhere. Something tells me it's a loose wire somewhere. Sad again.

The day was getting late and I just threw the truck back together and have not touched it. I did however rediscover that my truck locks the door after it hits 20 mph and what's it like to have interior lights at night. The sweet life!! Almost!!



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[GrumpyGhost 27]

I went to Walmart and bought the cheap black magic 5% window tint for $12 to run a brow across my windshield. I thought I could do it myself as I did the side windows in 20% back in highschool before I even knew anything on how to do window tinting. How hard could it be!!!!?????

It's a pain, but mostly I think it was difficult because the product was so crappy. It's wavy and you can see its not straight at all. Living in Florida I got tired of having to put my sun visor down all the time to block the sun. This tint has fixed that issue but it look like crap.

I will have all my windows done professionally in the future but for now I'm just leaving it like it is.

My center console has finally broken and I'm trying to not buy the $60 replacement topper from Amazon that I see in all the center consoles because it is common for them to break. I'm surprised this one has lasted as long as it has. I want to find the center console that is not a seat and get rid of the crappy one. I have found many center consoles like the one I want, but all of them have been tan. Go figure! I'm sure one will pop up at lkq eventually.

Lastly I got the rear view mirror that has the direction and temp on the mirror. I also grabbed the temp sensor that mounts behind the grill. This is also from a 2001 suburban. I have not had the time to find a wiring diagram to wire this up, but it will be coming in the future, for now I just have the mirror mounted and has been a reminder I need to get it done.

First I need to go back and pull a wiring harness from one of the chevy suburbans to have a bunch of wire to use to run the sensors and power wires for the mirror, also pulling the wiring harness is cheaper than going to a hardware store and buying wire. Plus it'll be color coded like the factory wires! Bonus!!! It a very time consuming job and I'll get to it eventually.




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[GrumpyGhost 27]

Oh I forgot to add this to last post, but I also did the antenna delete mod to my truck. I still get all the stations I want to listen too like 102.5 the bone with Mike calta and so on.

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[GrumpyGhost 27]

I forgot I did this as well. I removed the drl sensor that mounts on the dash pad when I replaced my heater core about 2 years ago because it wasn't working anyhow. So since then my headlights always came on no matter what and I couldn't turn them off without first engaging the parking brake.

Anyhow awhile back I tried to find the wire loom that connected to the drl by removing the radio and couldn't find it. So recently I removed the dash pad and found it lying ontop of the heater ducting. I then found a resistor I had lying around for my led conversion and popped it in the connections for the drl. Boom! I now have control over my headlights but have lost the automatic feature.

No big deal as I have never liked the automatic headlights and it will take some getting used to, but I just have to remember to use my headlight switch to turn them on.

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[GrumpyGhost 27]

I finally got my mirror wired up. I got the 20 guage wire the mirror uses from a 2002 suburban from lqk or lkq, whatever it's called. (Junkyard/pull a part place, cost me 20 mins and $12) Someone had already taken the entire dash out of the burban so I was able grab the original wiring that goes to the mirror and sensor. Well most of it, I cut it at the firewall and just used the orange and black power wires that power the interior dome lights on the ceiling of the burban.

I found a thread on here where someone else had done the mod and improvised from there. I removed like 3 wires from the plug for the mirror and hooked up the power to 10amp ignition fuse on the dash fuse box. Then grounded it to the dash. Then I ran my sensor wire through the firewall and hooked up the sensors in the exact same location I pulled it off of the suburban.

I removed the reverse wire and the 2 side mirror wires. The auto dimming works perfectly, I guess it just won't shut off when in reverse like it's supposed too, but honestly how many times will I actually need that function. (It's a gentex model 177 mirror with 7pin plug for reference)

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[GrumpyGhost 27]

Just gave Grumpy a bath, what you dont see in the pics is that the Bondo on the bed has shrunk in a few spots. But my hack and pack Bondo job on the driver side where I had a huge dent hasn't shrunk at all. The Bondo(filler) shrink I think is normal.

I just need to get some 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper and sand down the clear a smidge to hide it. Then buff it all over again. Also the clear coat is chipping on the hood and the roof clear coat is almost gone. (Insert sad face)

Also the cancer(rust) on the bottom of the passenger door and passenger rear door has gotten a little worse. I don't have a welder down here in Florida yet and even if I did, I don't think I could save the bottoms of the doors. There are a ton of GM extended trucks like mine in the junkyard here and I think I will just get some from there and repaint them.

Lastly I included the frame which show how well the por15 attached to the rusty frame and makes it new again. No new cancer has shown up on the frame and I'm very happy about it. I think I will get some por15 and coat the leaf springs however as they are starting to rust in a few spots.

I also keep telling myself this is a work truck, so to "patch" the hood and roof. I'm just going to put some vinyl wrap on it to keep it from ever turning into rust as I have said before. I'll get around to it eventually haha.

Anyhow sorry not sorry for the book update on Grumpy. Basically just maintenance for now. I have been looking for a front bumper from a 2003-2006 GMC Sierra. I like the look of those bumpers better plus the inside of my front bumper is very rusty.





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[GrumpyGhost 27]

I should mention that while I do live in Florida, I live by the gulf, and work along the golf and this truck sees and smells the ocean salt almost daily. It has been covered by sea water going over bridges many times. While it's not as bad as road salt from Indiana winter's. It is concerning enough to make me wash this truck almost every week. Also it sits outside and with the humidity down here, it is covered in dew daily

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[GrumpyGhost 27]

Found a 2002 Cadillac Escalade all wheel drive with the lq9 and a 4l65e at the lkq pull a part. I deleted my antenna on Grumpy and found this piece off of the Escalade to finalize the antenna delete.

Anyhow the parts place says I can pull the engine and transmission out of the Escalade for like $500 or so plus tax. I am very tempted to do this. I was at the junkyard to get a new blower motor for my ac/heat as the one in mine had worn out as the bearings made scary noises haha.

Anyhow I grabbed the blower and antenna piece and am probably going to go back this weekend to pull the steering wheel and clock spring out of the Escalade for the radio control buttons.

I didn't take pictures of the blower install as it is a very awkward place to see and get too but also very straight forward.

I opted for a used blower because the reviews on Amazon for the aftermarket new ones said they didn't "blow as hard."

LMAO Cheers!

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[GrumpyGhost 27]

So I got this in the mail today, freshly shipped from China. I got if off Amazon, it was the $28 option with free shipping. You can definitely tell is a cheap console lid, but for half the price of basically the same thing with a bit better material doesn't seem worth it to me for my "Work Truck".


Anyhow, I'm going to go install it real quick. Will post later again after installation.

I was going to wait to get one of these but my current original broken lid ended up cutting my arm, more like scraped that caused a little blood to draw. So I went ahead and ordered this one like a week or so ago.

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[GrumpyGhost 27]

Well here it is in all her glory! She or it rather gets the job done. Not great by any means, but it's puurrtttyyy knarly for a piece of junk.

All fun aside easy install after you figure it out since the instructions are unreadable and I didn't feel like looking it up on YouTube. It's self-explanatory really. Fitment is terrible, but it opens and closes like it should, doesn't draw blood if i set my arm on it, and for $28 I'm happy.

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