Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Diodes to use are Radio Shack (part number 1N4004)...when I picked up mine, they had a 2-Pack for about $2.00.

 

For the LED lights in the mirrors to come on when in reverse, jump from the top upper brown BCM pin to the top second from left pin of the "pink" BCM. The gray stripe on the diode must be on the "pink" side (when I say top, I am referring to the pics above as I can't recall pin numbers). I have done this and mine matches the pics...

 

The "fogs with parking lamps" jumper must be within the brown BCM. From the pic above, the diode appears to be placed within this BCM only. I'm not familiar with this as I don't have this set up...  

Posted (edited)

Ok, just to make sure..... the Diode circled as #1 is for the "fogs with parking lamps" mod and the diode #2 is for the "LED lights in the mirror come on when in reverse" mod, correct??  thanks!!!

fuse box.jpg

Edited by Swerve-n-protect
Posted

Yes, but I can only confirm Diode #2 is for the "LED lights in the mirror to come on in reverse", as I have done this mod to my truck. It has worked with no issues for the last couple years. You may just want to confirm if the pin numbers (diode locations) are the same for your 2019. I wouldn't think it would change from 2016, but you never know???

 

I personally can't confirm Diode #1 "fogs with parking lamps" as I have not done this mod to my truck. I was only assuming it was based on a previous post within this thread... 

Posted

 Ok thanks for the clarification...  Here's a pic of mine, they look the same...LOL  But I'd hate to smoke something by stickin a diode in pin that don't belong......

 

 

IMG_1259.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
Yes, but I can only confirm Diode #2 is for the "LED lights in the mirror to come on in reverse", as I have done this mod to my truck. It has worked with no issues for the last couple years. You may just want to confirm if the pin numbers (diode locations) are the same for your 2019. I wouldn't think it would change from 2016, but you never know???
 
I personally can't confirm Diode #1 "fogs with parking lamps" as I have not done this mod to my truck. I was only assuming it was based on a previous post within this thread... 
So yours is a 16 EJ? I just traded my 15 1500 for a 16 2500HD and want to do this.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

Yes, mine is a '16...same as yours, so you will have no issues... 

  • Like 1
Posted
Yes, mine is a '16...same as yours, so you will have no issues... 
Good deal, gonna go get a diode and do this asap

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

So are you having to leave that switch ON on the dash for the bed lights & mirror lights for the mod to work?  Cuz my lights come on when it's park too and that switch is on...

Posted
So are you having to leave that switch ON on the dash for the bed lights & mirror lights for the mod to work?  Cuz my lights come on when it's park too and that switch is on...
They will still come on in park/reverse if the cargo lamp switch is on. The mod should allow only the mirror lights to come on when in reverse, without having the cargo lamp switch on

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, Tx_operator87 said:

They will still come on in park/reverse if the cargo lamp switch is on. The mod should allow only the mirror lights to come on when in reverse, without having the cargo lamp switch on

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

Perfect!!  that's what I was hoping!  thanks!!!
 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Just got my 1N4001 diodes from Amazon and got one plugged in.  Awesome!  It works!!  I was kinda hoping JUST the LED mirror lights would come on but the cargo light switch illuminates when I put the truck in reverse and the bed cargo lights and the reverse light comes on in the 3 brake/reverse light combo on the back of the cab come on too, but I'm good with that!!  It's nice to not have to hit the switch when u want extra reverse lights.  So this mod works on the 2019 2500HD's as well.  thanks fellas!!

Posted

just wanted to piggy back off this since you guys seem to know a fair amount about lighting and mods. I have a 2017 HD and I cant manually turn off my headlights unless im in park. (i used to be able to turn them off even while driving in my 2011 1500) I was told that this was because my truck was first sold in Canada and US trucks dont do this. Do you know if this is true or are all the newer trucks doing this? Either way do you know if there is a was to mod it so i can turn them off whenever i need to?

  • Like 1
Posted

From what I am seeing on other/older forums is that this is in fact a canadian thing due to their laws. Some people are saying that you can take it to a Chevy/gm dealer here in the states and they can reprogram the bcm. But it is a programming matter that Canada does. I'll look around more because a lot of what I was finding was discussed in 2017, so maybe some things have changed. If I find anything else I'll repost here

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

ok, thats what i was thinking but wasnt sure. sounds good thanks in advance

  • Like 1
Posted
On 3/9/2019 at 7:02 PM, DBeau said:

ok, thats what i was thinking but wasnt sure. sounds good thanks in advance

They've been like that on Canadian ones for many years. 

I've learned to live with it.  A vehicle without daytime running lights looks unusual around here now. 

 

And of course the auto function will switch the daytime running light to regular headlights and taillights when the light sensor detects dusk (or inside a tunnel)

 

I've heard that the switch can be taken apart and the spring removed so that the knob will stay in the 'off' position.

Could probably also by the US knob from a dealer or parts house.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 473 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...