Jump to content

6L80 external filter DIY

cossack

By cossack
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

cossack
cossack

After changing out ATF in my '15 model truck, with~35k miles, I decided to install an external filter to help better manage all of the debris, shavings, wear particles inside the transmission. There i

cossack
cossack

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E0_bs_lVr4acbv6YEHjpiFH9kDMVumC7/view?usp=sharing Here it is, but again, grinder and paint, make me the welder I an't. I bought a spare pan off of ebay just

2005Silveraydo
2005Silveraydo

Only about 700 miles. Next month I plan to do a pan drop, change the fluid and both filters. It only has 17k miles on it but I am interested to see what everything looks like. 

Posted Images

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted
21 hours ago, cossack said:

Also remember that in during warmer month transmission thermostat stays open almost always.

I think it stays open during winter months too. I mean there seems to be little change in trans temps depending on ambient temps, just like our coolant temps.

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted
On 1/5/2018 at 2:41 PM, Eddie 70 said:

I got to thinking about the trans temperature and this remote filter. My drive is 40 miles one way. When I get about 2 miles from work, my trans temp is just getting to 170 degrees. If I understand correctly the flow through the remote filter would not happen until this point. I like this idea but think it is a lot of work for two miles of filtering. Am I missing something here?

 

Thanks guys.

I’m about 90% sure it doesnt open until 190-195 degrees.

 

The thing is the filter doesn’t need to be constantly filtering. It just needs to do it once in awhile.

 

picture having a loop of water running through a brita filter. It’s not going to make much difference if it runs through continously or just does it once a week. The filter should remove most of the contaminants on one pass.

 

If you’re only reaching 170 on your way to work, I suggest having a little fun on your way to work once in awhile.

  • Like 1
cossack Enthusiast

cossack

Posted
  • Author
Posted
39 minutes ago, truckguy82 said:

I think it stays open during winter months too. I mean there seems to be little change in trans temps depending on ambient temps, just like our coolant temps.

You are correct it does open during winter month too, it just takes substantially longer then during summer. At least it does in my truck. How ever during summer time transmission reaches operating temperature quickly.

  • 2 weeks later...
cossack Enthusiast

cossack

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I went ahead and did an oil change on the truck but decided to leave transmission filter in till the next time. It hardly had any miles on it sense the install, figured it would be pointless to change out.

I'll try and update this  thread once I have filter changed out.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Mileguru Enthusiast

Mileguru

Posted
Posted
On 2/5/2018 at 9:11 AM, cossack said:

I went ahead and did an oil change on the truck but decided to leave transmission filter in till the next time. It hardly had any miles on it sense the install, figured it would be pointless to change out.

I'll try and update this  thread once I have filter changed out.

 

 

 

I was following this thread a while back. Just sending a reminder that we'd love to see that trans filter opened up when you feel the time is right.

cossack Enthusiast

cossack

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 3/4/2018 at 3:10 PM, Mileguru said:

I was following this thread a while back. Just sending a reminder that we'd love to see that trans filter opened up when you feel the time is right.

You got it. But it will probably be closer to summer time when I change it out for the simple fact of very few miles on it. Also might do a pan drop to see how it looks on the inside, if there are any shavings. Stay tuned.

 

  • 1 month later...
2005Silveraydo Enthusiast

2005Silveraydo

Posted
Posted

Awesome Job! Your lines look super professional! Im considering doing this but with rubber trans hoses, only one question. Is there any down side to this? Would this restrict the flow of fluid at all? Might sound like a dumb question, but I just didnt know.

Thanks!

  • Thanks 1
cossack Enthusiast

cossack

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 4/29/2018 at 7:34 AM, 2005Silveraydo said:

Awesome Job! Your lines look super professional! Im considering doing this but with rubber trans hoses, only one question. Is there any down side to this? Would this restrict the flow of fluid at all? Might sound like a dumb question, but I just didnt know.

Thanks!

Thank you!

You can definitely use rubber trans hoses. I think those radiators have 3/8 NPT threads. Just make sure clean out old sealant and use good quality thread sealer, I would recommend against the tape kind and go with the liquid type.

The extra plumbing and the filter itself probably add a few PSI resistance, but I doubt its anything significant. The pump is a positive displacement type and flows same amount of oil no matter the PSI. Either way I don't have a good solid answer for you man. I would have to measure pressure difference between Point #2 (filter out) and point #13 (filter in) on parts diagram. Also would need to know the pressure relief setting on the pump before I could answer your question with 100% accuracy. But again I doubt that this setup changed the amount of oil that flows through the coolers.

Hope my nonaswer helps you make a decision.

 

and bump for the updated first post. Got pictures of the filter put up.

Edited by cossack
Eddie 70 Senior Enthusiast

Eddie 70

Posted
Posted

Just read the updated post with filter pics. The exact reason I wanted to install a remote filter in the first place. I'm still pulling a gallon of fluid from the dipstick tube every 15k miles until then.

2005Silveraydo Enthusiast

2005Silveraydo

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, cossack said:

Thank you!

You can definitely use rubber trans hoses. I think those radiators have 3/8 NPT threads. Just make sure clean out old sealant and use good quality thread sealer, I would recommend against the tape kind and go with the liquid type.

The extra plumbing and the filter itself probably add a few PSI resistance, but I doubt its anything significant. The pump is a positive displacement type and flows same amount of oil no matter the PSI. Either way I don't have a good solid answer for you man. I would have to measure pressure difference between Point #2 (filter out) and point #13 (filter in) on parts diagram. Also would need to know the pressure relief setting on the pump before I could answer your question with 100% accuracy. But again I doubt that this setup changed the amount of oil that flows through the coolers.

Hope my nonaswer helps you make a decision.

 

and bump for the updated first post. Got pictures of the filter put up.

I went ahead and installed a set up similar to yours using rubber trans hose and Hayden 397 adaptors for the cooler and radiator. Same filter head but a wix 51515xp filter because it was black. Also brass fittings off the filter head painted black. 

1BDD55B5-C896-4DA0-9743-3F462E8E6817.jpeg

BBDAB9A5-79BB-490B-A600-98BF70001192.jpeg

  • Like 1
cossack Enthusiast

cossack

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, 2005Silveraydo said:

I went ahead and installed a set up similar to yours using rubber trans hose and Hayden 397 adaptors for the cooler and radiator. Same filter head but a wix 51515xp filter because it was black. Also brass fittings off the filter head painted black. 

 

 

Install looks great, how many miles you got on it now?

  • Like 1
2005Silveraydo Enthusiast

2005Silveraydo

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, cossack said:

Install looks great, how many miles you got on it now?

Only about 700 miles. Next month I plan to do a pan drop, change the fluid and both filters. It only has 17k miles on it but I am interested to see what everything looks like. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • KARNUT
      Gas Prices

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Question for you Grumpy, why is diesel so much more than gasoline? Seems to me that it may be slightly a little less refined than gas and it doesn't have 10% alcohol which presumably lowers the price of gas
    • TrueBlue
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...