120,000KM Maintenance - What do you think?

[WesternMike]

So I’m just about at the 120,000km mark on my 2014 Silverado 2WT. I’ve been running premium oil and 91 fuel since I got it, was tuned to run 8 cylinder since about 15,000km. I chanced out all fluids on the truck at 65,000km and now as I approach the 120,000km mark here’s what I have planned for what’s next.

 

I have never done any kind of valve cleaning before but I’m sure I can handle this. I would like your guys feed back of my plans and anything else I should add in while I’m at it. I do regret never adding a catch can but I figured since I’m doing this list I mise well add one in as I plan to keep this truck for well over 200,000.. any advice will be appreciated.

 

———————

1. Clean Valves

 

Take off intake manifold and clean vavles

 

* GMs top engine cleaner - dealership

* Rifle cleaning kit

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c7-general-discussion/3723336-diy-lti-intake-valve-cleaning-cleaning-deposits.html

 

 

2. Replace Intake manifold with 6.2L Manifold (10-15 HP Increase)

* Intake Manifold:12639087 - $150

* TB:12620263 - $171.77

* TB Seal:12639086 - $7.05

* PCV Tube:12650610 - $39.58

 

 

3. Swap / Upgrade Headers & Spark Plugs

 

Take off front wheeles to allow much better access.

 

Headers:

* Gibson GP129S Stainless Steel Performance Header - $700

 

Spark Plugs Wires

* Taylor 409 Pro Race Spiro-Wound 10.4mm Spark Plug Wires 79203 - $60 US

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-79203

 

Spark Plug

* ACDelco 41-114 Professional Iridium Spark Plug - Amazon - $15 x8

 

4. Change breaks and routers

 

* EBS Brakes S4KF1529 - Stage 4

* Rotosand Pads

 

https://www.tdotperformance.ca/ebc-brakes-s4kf1529-stage-4-signature-brake-kit-incl-rotors-and-pads-front.html

 

5. Add Catch Can

 

* Elite EX2

* Clean Side Separator

* Black Braided Hose

 

 

 

 

 

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[mookdoc6]

If your going to clean the Valves....and go to the trouble of removing covers etc....Clean them the BG way 2 part solutions etc.  Follow instructions exactly!

 

All of that can be avoided if you just use BG-EPR and 47K  along with GDI induction cleaning every 40-50K.....The other stuff sounds good!

[bkesting]

21 minutes ago, mookdoc6 said:

If your going to clean the Valves....and go to the trouble of removing covers etc....Clean them the BG way 2 part solutions etc.  Follow instructions exactly!

 

All of that can be avoided if you just use BG-EPR and 47K  along with GDI induction cleaning every 40-50K.....The other stuff sounds good!

What is 47k?

[WesternMike]

https://www.google.ca/amp/s/www.bgprod.com/blog/gdi-stands-for-opportunity/amp/


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[mookdoc6]

21 hours ago, bkesting said:

What is 47k?

Sorry, bud!  I got busy the Market Tanked and I gave you incorrect information......

 

BG-44k  use it as additive for gasoline and it will keep the GDI injector nozzles spraying properly......and hitting the piston tops correctly and reducing the carbon buildup on tops of pistons that only increases as the spray is not tumbling correctly off the tops and nozzle deposits accumulate faster..

 

Take from a previous GDI experience....Keep the valve train clean with BG-EPR and injector nozzle tips and piston tops with BG-44K and you will not be opening it up to clean anything.....

The ecotech 3's are excellent/stout motors and they do require added maintenance and unfortunately mfg's are not being entirely truthful about it....

 

At least GM recently put a bulletin out out 2016 or so to have dealers install a similar BG-44K product........ 

[bkesting]

32 minutes ago, mookdoc6 said:

Sorry, bud!  I got busy the Market Tanked and I gave you incorrect information......

 

BG-44k  use it as additive for gasoline and it will keep the GDI injector nozzles spraying properly......and hitting the piston tops correctly and reducing the carbon buildup on tops of pistons that only increases as the spray is not tumbling correctly off the tops and nozzle deposits accumulate faster..

 

Take from a previous GDI experience....Keep the valve train clean with BG-EPR and injector nozzle tips and piston tops with BG-44K and you will not be opening it up to clean anything.....

The ecotech 3's are excellent/stout motors and they do require added maintenance and unfortunately mfg's are not being entirely truthful about it....

 

At least GM recently put a bulletin out out 2016 or so to have dealers install a similar BG-44K product........ 

So would you use this along with EPR and MOA treatments? How often do you use these?   Do you also do anything with CRC GDI cleaner?

[mookdoc6]

1 hour ago, bkesting said:

So would you use this along with EPR and MOA treatments? How often do you use these?   Do you also do anything with CRC GDI cleaner?

Good questions!!

 

No, I don't use anything other than BG products....buy in bulk on Amazon and can get fairly reasonable...44K is always expensive because it's that good.

 

When I change the oil I use 2qty cans of BG-EPR drive 10minutes light and idle for 15 minutes and dump used oil.......I use HIGH Quality Oil Filter after new oil is run 3K I dump one can of BG-MOA extended into crankcase.  When I get to 10K or 12K I dump oil and repeat process...Also after every Oil Change starting out I use 1 can of BG-44K.

 

I don't advocate anything really.....these products are simply that good....and I have used and swear by them also had it rectify other GDI engine issues....I have used oil sample verifications and it's used oil that looks like it go another 10K........THE MOA-Solves the upper valve train issues most guys get after awhile even though "I change my oil every 5k"  Your not using the correct products people.

[bkesting]

1 hour ago, mookdoc6 said:

Good questions!!

 

No, I don't use anything other than BG products....buy in bulk on Amazon and can get fairly reasonable...44K is always expensive because it's that good.

 

When I change the oil I use 2qty cans of BG-EPR drive 10minutes light and idle for 15 minutes and dump used oil.......I use HIGH Quality Oil Filter after new oil is run 3K I dump one can of BG-MOA extended into crankcase.  When I get to 10K or 12K I dump oil and repeat process...Also after every Oil Change starting out I use 1 can of BG-44K.

 

I don't advocate anything really.....these products are simply that good....and I have used and swear by them also had it rectify other GDI engine issues....I have used oil sample verifications and it's used oil that looks like it go another 10K........THE MOA-Solves the upper valve train issues most guys get after awhile even though "I change my oil every 5k"  Your not using the correct products people.

 

Thanks for the info. So basically you run EPR right prior to oil change, add 44K right after adding fresh oil and then add MOA 3k miles in?

[mookdoc6]

47 minutes ago, bkesting said:

 

Thanks for the info. So basically you run EPR right prior to oil change, add 44K right after adding fresh oil and then add MOA 3k miles in?

Exactly.....right!  Since it's 8qts for 5.3L I add 2 qty BG-EPR's prior to the oil change drive low rpm's 10-15 minutes than idle it for 10 minutes and DUMP...This is not snake oil crap or SEAFOAM or whatever that crap is....MOA is not, a Viscosity modifier either.  If you have any questions ask...I don't sell the crap but only use it BG-Products because I have seen the results and empirical data....Ask somebody who has used BG-Products from initial ownership about Oil Consumption, Upper end Valve train issues?  You won't ask the mechanics who use and would they use it on their vehicles or family members vehicles' every one will say, "absolutely" 

[bkesting]

10 minutes ago, mookdoc6 said:

Exactly.....right!  Since it's 8qts for 5.3L I add 2 qty BG-EPR's prior to the oil change drive low rpm's 10-15 minutes than idle it for 10 minutes and DUMP...This is not snake oil crap or SEAFOAM or whatever that crap is....MOA is not, a Viscosity modifier either.  If you have any questions ask...I don't sell the crap but only use it BG-Products because I have seen the results and empirical data....Ask somebody who has used BG-Products from initial ownership about Oil Consumption, Upper end Valve train issues?  You won't ask the mechanics who use and would they use it on their vehicles or family members vehicles' every one will say, "absolutely" 

So how long do you go between oil changes? I know with today's engines and oils (synthetic) you can run longer, but I'm still in the camp of changing every 3k to 5k miles. It may excessive, but to me, it's peace of mind and cheap insurance on the engine.

[mookdoc6]

28 minutes ago, bkesting said:

So how long do you go between oil changes? I know with today's engines and oils (synthetic) you can run longer, but I'm still in the camp of changing every 3k to 5k miles. It may excessive, but to me, it's peace of mind and cheap insurance on the engine.

Nothing less than 10K....I am close to 12K now...the data supported is so good that 15K would be great for me and 2qty changes a year would be perfect.  The Oil actually has curve to it, so volatile in initial time and use and settles down to a less volatile compound and great characteristics for lubrication, cleansing etc. etc.  than right before it is runs out of additives the curve comes back up and your metal on metal. Not really true, but it's the time/use where at that point the oil has fulfilled it useful purpose.

 

I have seen GDI's and the religious "OLD School" guy I dump mine at 3K!  With massive oil consumption drivability issues etc.  Problem is he does not understand the oil curve and basically ran NEW OIL and coating those valves nice and sticky in GDI's because it's so Volatile and never reached it's proper state of lubricity whic has less ability to cook to the parts at high temperatures.  GDI's run hotter too problem compounds.........NOW you see GM proactively forcing all dealerships to use DEXOS APPROVED FULL SYNTHETIC.......GM tucks have 8qts plenty of oil to run perfectly good with MOA up to 12K miles....I will show a Oil report soon what 12K looks like using BG-Products 

[bkesting]

56 minutes ago, mookdoc6 said:

Nothing less than 10K....I am close to 12K now...the data supported is so good that 15K would be great for me and 2qty changes a year would be perfect.  The Oil actually has curve to it, so volatile in initial time and use and settles down to a less volatile compound and great characteristics for lubrication, cleansing etc. etc.  than right before it is runs out of additives the curve comes back up and your metal on metal. Not really true, but it's the time/use where at that point the oil has fulfilled it useful purpose.

 

I have seen GDI's and the religious "OLD School" guy I dump mine at 3K!  With massive oil consumption drivability issues etc.  Problem is he does not understand the oil curve and basically ran NEW OIL and coating those valves nice and sticky in GDI's because it's so Volatile and never reached it's proper state of lubricity whic has less ability to cook to the parts at high temperatures.  GDI's run hotter too problem compounds.........NOW you see GM proactively forcing all dealerships to use DEXOS APPROVED FULL SYNTHETIC.......GM tucks have 8qts plenty of oil to run perfectly good with MOA up to 12K miles....I will show a Oil report soon what 12K looks like using BG-Products 

Interesting

[mookdoc6]

GDI fuel dilution etc. and combustion by products hugely increase with GDI's  and HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP blasting into the Chamber at like insane pressure.....USE a High grade Oil filter the mobil 1's are pretty damn good for 10.00 bucks..  I buy all my stuff in bulk so the prices go down...except 44-k

[Grumpy Bear]

You have 120 clicks on the clock, right? That's about 75 thousand miles. Last full service 40 thousand miles. Just a bit quicker than the book, good. Question. You having any drivability issues? Your fuel mileage tank? Is it acting like an anemic Briggs & Stratton? Is there something other than 'opinions' told on boards that leads you to believe your intake runners are coked shut? 

 

You seem determined. How about a favor. When you pull the manifold take some well lit photos of the inlet runners. Please?????

[VdellaV]

On 5/2/2018 at 11:28 PM, mikevickers10 said:

2. Replace Intake manifold with 6.2L Manifold (10-15 HP Increase)

* Intake Manifold:12639087 - $150

* TB:12620263 - $171.77

* TB Seal:12639086 - $7.05

* PCV Tube:12650610 - $39.58

I would be curious to see if that actually increases the L83 5.3s HP or have negative effects on low end torque ( ??? )