Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
So I was trying to solve my slow oil leak problem, and was suggested to tighten them Very Lightly... which I Did, but the two long bolts would just spin. I heard a slight noise when trying to tighten the drivers side, so I stopped and passenger side long Oil pan bolt didn't make any noise. There was tons of old grease build up and so I thought that maybe it was actually tightening and going down into the block... and then POP! The bolt snapped right off! I've got some pictures of it. 
 
So my question is... do you think this is going to be a big problem?!? 
 
One day hopefully Next winter I will be able to pull the oil pan off and replace the gasket and bolts. But if I have to do this now its going to be a Big Problem, i've got Tons going on until the beginning of winter, there's no way I could dedicate a few days to fixing this problem the right way now -- I mean if I absolutely I have to I guess I will just have to, but I mean. I really hope and pray by JESUS CHRIST'S NAME that First, the leak doesn't get worse, and Second that there is a enough bolt still sticking out of the block that I could get it out easily without tapping it. I wiped down underneath and will be monitoring it continuously, as well as the oil level, hopefully i'll be good.

IMG_1607.JPG

IMG_1609.JPG

IMG_1613.JPG

Posted

Judging by the amount of threads left, I bet it broke off flush.  You will have to remove the pan to fix it.  Even then that bolt is at the back edge of the block and access will suck while the trans and flexplate are installed.  It actually threads into the rear cover, not the block.  It might be easier to pull the tranny and just replace the rear cover.  While you're in there, replace the pan gasket.  Also take a close look at you cam position sensor.  I found that mine was leaking badly when I pulled my engine.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Mike GMC said:

Judging by the amount of threads left, I bet it broke off flush.  You will have to remove the pan to fix it.  Even then that bolt is at the back edge of the block and access will suck while the trans and flexplate are installed.  It actually threads into the rear cover, not the block.  It might be easier to pull the tranny and just replace the rear cover.  While you're in there, replace the pan gasket.  Also take a close look at you cam position sensor.  I found that mine was leaking badly when I pulled my engine.

How hard is all that going to be you think!? I was watching a video on the oil pan alone and it seems pretty daunting... any videos you could reference? I really hope I can wait until next winter thought to do all this

Posted

It can wait, I just don't know how fast it will leak and how often you will have to fill up the oil.  I did an engine swap in my garage with a helper in 1 weekend, about 20 hours.  Now that I've done it once, I could probably cut that down about 3-4 hours.  I don't know your skill or experience level so I can't guess how long it would take you.  I'm certainly no expert, so you can likely match my time easily.

 

The more I think about what you need to do, pulling the engine may be the quickest way.  It's really not that hard.

Posted
2 hours ago, diyer2 said:

TORQUE WRENCH?

:)

Yeah well it’s too late for that! I was just doing a slight tighten not much at all and it just kept spinning... 

 

2 hours ago, Mike GMC said:

It can wait, I just don't know how fast it will leak and how often you will have to fill up the oil.  I did an engine swap in my garage with a helper in 1 weekend, about 20 hours.  Now that I've done it once, I could probably cut that down about 3-4 hours.  I don't know your skill or experience level so I can't guess how long it would take you.  I'm certainly no expert, so you can likely match my time easily.

 

The more I think about what you need to do, pulling the engine may be the quickest way.  It's really not that hard.

Yeah my experience is very limited I’m sure it would take me even longer. And I definitely don’t have the money to do a swap...

Posted

I wasn't suggesting you do a swap.  But out, fix and back in would take about the same amount of time as a swap.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Cost of the parts wouldnt be to bad if you were to do this yourself.  But having a shop do it would be a nightmare.  They would probably take 2 full days of labor if not 3 to take the engine out, replace the rear cover, probably replace other seals that are leaking and then replace the engine.  Lots and lots of money.  Around 1500 in labor and parts with the shops markup on parts as well.  And thats with a $60 an hour shop rate. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Mike GMC said:

I wasn't suggesting you do a swap.  But out, fix and back in would take about the same amount of time as a swap.

Ahhh I got you. The only problem with that is I don’t have a shop or garage, so I couldn’t really put it anywhere, on top I’d need to buy the engine crane... I really appreciate your help

 

1 hour ago, Logan Lanfear said:

Cost of the parts wouldnt be to bad if you were to do this yourself.  But having a shop do it would be a nightmare.  They would probably take 2 full days of labor if not 3 to take the engine out, replace the rear cover, probably replace other seals that are leaking and then replace the engine.  Lots and lots of money.  Around 1500 in labor and parts with the shops markup on parts as well.  And thats with a $60 an hour shop rate. 

Yeah exactly that’s what I was figuring! 

 

So I don’t have any leakage so far... though I haven’t been driving it but a couple miles so far. So hopefully I’ll be good until the winter and then I could try and tackle this

Posted

RENT a hoist if needed, not buy. Do you live in the southern hemisphere since you keep saying winter is coming? Winter has has been here where I live :)

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, txab said:

RENT a hoist if needed, not buy. Do you live in the southern hemisphere since you keep saying winter is coming? Winter has has been here where I live :)

Good thinking. But wouldn’t I need to set it down somewhere? Like I said I’d either be doing this in my townhouse complex parking lot out front of my house, Or in the sandy Grass out at my farm house where I don’t have a garage or concrete at all...

 

haha no I’m saying spring and summer are coming for me and I’ve got tons of work to do on the farm and my work gets crazy busy (work in a restaurant in beach town southeastern nc).

Posted

You can rent an engine stand. Or borrow, even buy one pretty cheap. Once on the stand you can rotate the engine as necessary

  • Like 1
Posted

Shop here near me told me that it would be $400 to replace my rear main seal on my 2002.  The leak has slowed up some and isn't dripping like it was.  Since those bolts are in the rear main seal housing that would be an easy fix. Just time to take the tranny out  or move back and get the flex plate off and then the seal housing.

  • Like 1
Posted
55 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

Shop here near me told me that it would be $400 to replace my rear main seal on my 2002.  The leak has slowed up some and isn't dripping like it was.  Since those bolts are in the rear main seal housing that would be an easy fix. Just time to take the tranny out  or move back and get the flex plate off and then the seal housing.

Any videos for reference? I'm thinking i'll definitely do this, but hoping I can do it next winter instead of now...

Posted
8 hours ago, TEWNCfarms said:

Any videos for reference? I'm thinking i'll definitely do this, but hoping I can do it next winter instead of now...

I don't have any handy but if you search YouTube for LS rear main seal replacement you will find a ton.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,506 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...