How to Flush Brake Fluid Using a Pressure Bleeder (VIDEO)

[ProStreetDriver]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vi3hRDgviDA

Video tutorial on how to flush your vehicle’s brake fluid using a pressure bleeder. I am working with a 2007 Volvo C30. There is usually specific maintenance intervals for brake fluid and this information can be found in your vehicle’s owner’s manual. Replacements maybe required 30,000km/20,000 miles or every 2 years or 160,000km/100,000 miles or every 10 years. Brake is hygroscopic, meaning it’s able to absorb moisture along with breaking down from heat, jeopardize braking performance or causing premature failures on components.

Tools/Supplies Needed:
-wrenches
-about 10 inches of clear rubber hose
-clean rags
-brake fluid
-pressure bleeder
-vacuum pump or turkey baster
-jack
-jack stand
-wheel wrench

Procedure:
-locate the master cylinder reservoir
-wipe around the reservoir cap
-determine what type of brake fluid your vehicle takes and the capacity by referring to your owner’s manual
-you will need about 0.5L more of fluid in order to complete the flush
-the kit comes with both a European specific cap and a generic cap to be used on any vehicle
-select the cap best suited for your vehicle and install
-a turkey baster or vacuum pump can be used to remove a majority of the old fluid in the reservoir, however some of these reservoirs can have an irregular design or include baffles making this difficult
-so we can skip this method and it will require slightly more fluid removal at the first bleeder unit we start seeing clean fluid
-screw the feeder line onto the tank and then snap the quick disconnect into place
-pump the system up to about 15psi and monitor the gauge for a pressure drop
-once you have verified there is no leaks, release the pressure by pressing the pressure relief valve and disconnect the line
-remove the pressure relief cap to fill the tank
-the tank should have enough fluid so it doesn’t run empty and risk the chance of introducing air into the system
-reinstall that cap and reconnect the feeder line
-pump the system up to about 15psi and verify there is no pressure leask
-pressure requirements may vary between vehicles, if you exceed a manufacturer’s pressure limit this may damage internal seals within the braking system
-some vehicles also have different bleed procedures, such as bleeding the closest wheel to the master cylinder, while others require bleeding the furthest wheel first that tends to be the most common
-for this vehicle I am starting with the furthest wheel first
-jack up the vehicle, remove the wheel, and install a jack stand
-locate the bleeder screw, remove the cap and wipe away any dirt
-install the correct sized wrench and then a clear rubber line going to a catch container
-loosen the bleeder and allow the fluid to drain until clean fluid is present in the line, then tighten
-roughly 40% of the system’s fluid will come from this location
-clean the bleeder of any residue, reinstall the rubber dust cap, and then reinstall the wheel
-move onto the next furtherest wheel, this time being the driver’s rear
-using the exact same procedure, drain the fluid into a container
-roughly 30% of the fluid would have been removed from the total system’s capacity
-monitor the pressure bleeder so the pressure doesn’t drop below 10psi
-moving onto the front passenger side wheel, again using the same procedure
-and finally the last wheel being the front driver’s side
-you should be left with some fluid in the tank which is perfectly normal and needed as a safety
-release the pressure in the pressure bleeder, than close the valve and disconnect the line
-ensure the fluid level in the reservoir is correct
-inspect the reservoir cap seal for any damage, replace accordingly, then reinstall the cap
-start the vehicle and make sure the brake pedal is firm