Jump to content

Hyper Flashing

T Masters
 Share

Recommended Posts

T Masters Enthusiast

T Masters

Posted
Posted

I just changed all lights on my 2015 Silverado to LED. I didn't run into hyper flashing and error message until I changed the front turn signal bulbs. I purchased resistors for each bulb and wired them in on one side so far and still get the error message and hyper flashing? I shouldn't have to do the other side for one side to work right? I don't want to cut the other side if it's just not going to work. Has anyone got this to work and how please? Thanks for any input

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Rears need them too. What was your test condition? Did you test with hazards? If you did, that would explain why they didn’t hyper flash.

 

If you put LEDs in the rear tails and the fronts, all 4 corners will need resistors.

 

Fronts will need a 6 ohm resistor for each side. Rears will need a 3 ohm resistor for each side. If you can’t get 3 ohm resistors for the rears, you can use (2) 6 ohms.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

  • Like 1
T Masters Enthusiast

T Masters

Posted
  • Author
Posted

  Yeah more info there would have helped. I have replaced the entire tail light assemblies with Spyder LEDs that must have the resistors built in. They were installed about 6 months ago and I've never had a problem with them. Also installed a Putco 48" Blade taillight bar under the gate and have never had a problem.  

  I got a set of Spyder DRL projector headlights and bought a set of amber LED turn signal bulbs. It wasn't until I installed the turn signal bulbs that it started hyper flashing and displaying error message "turn signal failure" 

 

  "side note"; It only happens when I fully engage the signal. if I just hit the quick signal, 3 flashes only, it doesn't fail.

 

  I've learned about how LEDs register lower ohms so the truck thinks there are no bulbs, makes sense. The ECM runs the signal relay so there is nothing there to replace. So I bought 4 LED load resistors specifically for the hyper flashing and error message. "See Pics" The resistors were not plug and play on the socket side so I used the sockets that were on the lights and wired 2 of them inline on the passenger side. One for each bulb. Bulbs work but, still have hyper flashing and error message. To test, I fully engaged the signal handle, I didn't use the hazards. 

  Note that if I put back in the original bulbs, everything works fine and the original bulbs are installed on the driver during testing.

The only thing I can think is I've got a bad set of No Name resistors..

 

  

20180618_070408.jpg

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Yeah - The error message won’t until until 3 blinks. Then you’ll get the message. The DIC should tell you if it’s front/rear, right/left for the failure.

The Spyder tails should have build in resistors. Check your DIC and see where the issue is being reported. Those error cancelling resistors don’t show specs so it’s hard to say... but I’ve never had luck with those.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

I also learned that hose plug in style connectors and insert either way. So check to make sure if the same issue is exhibited when plugged in flipped.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

T Masters Enthusiast

T Masters

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I also did the dl8 to dl3 mirror upgrade recently, I'm sure you're aware of but, everything works fine with the original turn signal bulbs in so I don't think the new signals in the mirrors could be causing any trouble?

  • Like 1
BluEyeItln Enthusiast

BluEyeItln

Posted
Posted

Phil, I have an odd issue similar to this.  The passenger side tail light will hyper flash the turn signal.   And I have tube style led tail lights as well as headlights.  The passenger rear turn signal is the only one with the issue.  I have just noticed that the battery gauge is nornally at 14 but I see it dip down to 11 and that is when the hyper flash happens.  Would this be an electrical issue or does it sound like I need to replace my battery.  The gauge fluctuates from 14 to 11 at random.  Keep in mind I do have the resistors on and all other lights function as they should.

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
I also did the dl8 to dl3 mirror upgrade recently, I'm sure you're aware of but, everything works fine with the original turn signal bulbs in so I don't think the new signals in the mirrors could be causing any trouble?

Mirrors won’t have any effect. If the arrow on the glass blinks when signaling, they are fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Phil, I have an odd issue similar to this.  The passenger side tail light will hyper flash the turn signal.   And I have tube style led tail lights as well as headlights.  The passenger rear turn signal is the only one with the issue.  I have just noticed that the battery gauge is nornally at 14 but I see it dip down to 11 and that is when the hyper flash happens.  Would this be an electrical issue or does it sound like I need to replace my battery.  The gauge fluctuates from 14 to 11 at random.  Keep in mind I do have the resistors on and all other lights function as they should.

I would take note of the DIC and see which signal is causing the failure and start there. Remove the light (tail light or headlight - whichever is producing the error) and go from there. If you have your factory light, does the error go away when reinstalled? I don’t know what “tube style” tail light means.

If using aftermarket lights, try to reinstall the factory if you have it. If you installed an LED bulb in favor of incandescent, try to replace back with an incandescent. If you have an incandescent bulb, maybe it is just out.

The hyper flash is indicative of a bulb failure. Resistors added to those that upgrade to LED increase the resistance in the line, making the BCM think it’s pulling the right power. Try to replace the resistor.

Resistors do go bad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BluEyeItln Enthusiast

BluEyeItln

Posted
Posted

Phil, I have an odd issue similar to this.  The passenger side tail light will hyper flash the turn signal.   And I have tube style led tail lights as well as headlights.  The passenger rear turn signal is the only one with the issue.  I have just noticed that the battery gauge is nornally at 14 but I see it dip down to 11 and that is when the hyper flash happens.  Would this be an electrical issue or does it sound like I need to replace my battery.  The gauge fluctuates from 14 to 11 at random.  Keep in mind I do have the resistors on and all other lights function as they should.

Screenshot_20180619-184936_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20180619-184945_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20180619-185005_eBay.jpg

  • Like 1
BluEyeItln Enthusiast

BluEyeItln

Posted
Posted

I forgot to ask, what is the DIC? I'm sure there will be many off the wall answers to that.

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Phil, I have an odd issue similar to this.  The passenger side tail light will hyper flash the turn signal.   And I have tube style led tail lights as well as headlights.  The passenger rear turn signal is the only one with the issue.  I have just noticed that the battery gauge is nornally at 14 but I see it dip down to 11 and that is when the hyper flash happens.  Would this be an electrical issue or does it sound like I need to replace my battery.  The gauge fluctuates from 14 to 11 at random.  Keep in mind I do have the resistors on and all other lights function as they should.
Screenshot_20180619-184936_eBay.thumb.jpg.a2504eab9b85a2fa5248139a64fddf91.jpg
Screenshot_20180619-184945_eBay.thumb.jpg.42e30a434f9e566b237d35ccb4ff0650.jpg
Screenshot_20180619-185005_eBay.thumb.jpg.47afd5a50180184719c1e0e17d0443df.jpg

Do you have your factory light you can reinstall and see if the issue still occurs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,159 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • lowrider
      Range RA007 DFM Module

      By lowrider · Posted

      I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Tyler Gibbs
      2022 2500HD with a new RSI SmartCap

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • fm2176
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By fm2176 · Posted

      My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...