Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

https://www.safercar.gov/staticfiles/safercar/pdf/EA11-001_closing_rpt.pdf   

 

I found this picture by accident after three hours of searching for a picture of the routing for the steel lines for my  2006 GMC Sierra 4wd.  Most other GM trucks would be the same or very similar.

 

I cannot find a way to post just the picture.  Open the link in Adobe Acrobat and go to page 14.  You can blow up the picture in Acrobat, around 300 % gives you a clear easy to read picture.  

 

lines run in order, from inside edge of frame (in plasic clips) or top edge of frame (in plastic clips) outward or downward.   If you run your lines in this order there is no crossing or bending of lines necessary.

 

Antilock brake ports:

 

1. top center port to right front brake

 

2. top left port to left front brake

 

3. top right port to rear brakes (actually, this line runs in it's own clip

 

4. bottom left port to master cylinder rear port

 

5. bottom right port to master cylinder front port

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thank you Joisey for posting this. I had the brake line rust through going to the right front last week. 99 Silverado 2500 (no HD), that I had bought in 2010. While replacing the line I noticed 3 other brake lines had already been replaced, which kind of surprised me a bit, seeing very little other rust under there.

It wasn't a fun job for sure, doing it on a creeper, with no lift. It was equipped with standard 1/4 inch tubing, but of course the flare nuts GM used are different from the flare nuts that come on the tubing that you find at the auto parts store. They did have the correct flare nuts in stock, I just had to cut the tubing to install them and re-flare them again. I had a double lip flaring tool.  I came straight out of the ABS controller with the new line  and ran it along the inside of the frame, ( it came from the factory coming out of the controller and going to the outside of the frame rail) and then pretty much routed it the rest of the way as it was from the factory.

I tried gravity bleeding the system first. When that didn't work, my wife helped me bleed them and now all is well.

I know I might have found the lines at the dealer with the correct flare nuts but I've found your usually better off in the long run not going there until your forced to.

Posted

I'm glad that the diagram helped you.  I used the FineLines replacement lines the first time.  My original lines lasted 84K and I replaced them when they began to weep.  The FineLines lasted 36K and rusted thru.  My current set is made by Dorman and is stainless steel.  Fit is excellent, but I will never know how they last because the truck is going down the road.  Enough is enough.

 

Again, I am happy that the diagram helped you.

Posted

 

 

     I usually just leave the old lines in place, and run the new lines along side them. You can spray the new lines with rust inhibitor once per year to keep them from rusting out. 

 

      To post the picture, try this: 

 

      Get the image on your screen, and then hold down "Control" and press "print screen" - which is located to the right of F12. Then open Microsoft paint, and select "Paste". Now just save the file to the desktop, and upload to the site. 

Posted

I undercoated the first set of FineLine "lifetime" brake lines when I was sure there were no leaks.  Four years later they ruptured at the weld line.  One front driver's side and the main line feeding the rear brakes.  GM said there is no trouble with their brake lines, but on new trucks they are plastic coated, just like the two lines going to my rear wheel cylinders  on my 2006 Sierra.

 

I would have tried the 'print screen' idea, but alas, I have no MS paint.

Posted
1 hour ago, Joisey said:

I would have tried the 'print screen' idea, but alas, I have no MS paint.

 

 

   Assuming that you have a smart phone, you could screenshot it and upload that way. Or take a picture of your desktop computer using the phone, and upload. 

 

 

Posted (edited)

 

 

      If you right click on this image, you should be able to save it to your desktop. Then you should be able to upload it to the server. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

brake parts.png

Edited by starman8tdc
  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

Does anyone know the connector (nut) size that connects the brake line (right front) to the ABS module? 99 silverado 4wd

Edited by Jfayadjr
Posted

I replaced almost all my lines with nylon-coated pre-bent steel lines from GM.  Still look good after 4 years and about 50k miles.  Only dumb thing about them is that GM didn't include the 2 lines going across the rear axle and they don't sell those lines separately anymore either...

Posted

It's a 5/16 to 1/4 reducer,brass,all parts stores have them,this way a 1/4 " line can be used with out touching the flare

  • 8 months later...
Posted

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 4 x 4 Crew cab SLE. My lines are the tc04 727. They DO NOT go into the ports like everything I've seen says. The only diagram I gave found is from dealership or nemigaparts. It does not clearly show proper routing/port locations. I'm at my wits end here.spacer.png

Posted (edited)

I know from the only color code left my Rear Master cylinder line goes into the Top Middle port. I also know the line running to the rear (drums by the way) goes into the Top Right port. I am also fairly confident the Left front (Driver's side) line goes into the Top Left port. Other than that....HEEELLLLPPP!

Edited by ChrisMatthews
Addional info
Posted

That would be your best bet.  When I did my lines years ago, I made sure to take pics of line routing (particularly along the frame rail from the front wheel to the abs controller, but also if it goes over/under various bits).

 

And be careful with the various clips holding the lines in place, as at least some of them are NLA new, and are very difficult to remove from another truck (say, in a junkyard) without also breaking them.

Posted

Thanks Dave. Clips were pita, but patience and determination won in those. I took pictures, lots of them, trouble is the lines twist over the frame by the firewall. Also the pictures I took help quite a bit, however it only takes 1 out of the bunch to mess you up. I planned on paying close attention near the ebcm, but the lines snapped like dead branches. Looked at several trucks, all a bit different. I did gain perspective on the lines going through the clips though. Haven't yet determined if that helps me or not yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,948
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    zibzer2
    Newest Member
    zibzer2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 805 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...