Jump to content

Pro Comp 4” Lift Kit for Denali w/ Magneride

Denali34

By Denali34
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mike-92 New Member

Mike-92

Posted
Posted
On 9/27/2018 at 5:12 AM, Denali34 said:

The used that same kit number for the 2017 year models. There is no difference in the truck between 2017 and 2018 year models. That kit comes with rear shocks which you will not need if you have Magneride. You will need to purchase the extension brackets not listed with the kit. The wheels I have are the stock 22" wheels. I believe they are 9" wide. The clear the upper control arms. The stock 20" that come on the trucks will not clear and will require spacers. I am running 285/55R22 tires. 

Where can i get the extension brackets Can you send a link please

Denali34 Enthusiast

Denali34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Where can i get the extension brackets Can you send a link please

I called Pro Comp to get them. It’s not ok their website.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mike-92 New Member

Mike-92

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks brother appreciate it any other things ill be needing to complete this kit by the way mine is a 2018 model the kit says 2014-2016 do you think ill be ok ?
hows the ride any big difference from stock ?

Edited by Mike-92
  • 5 months later...
seanscarf New Member

seanscarf

Posted
Posted

Was going back and forth on lift kits for my 2018 Denali. Ended up with ReadyLift 4" SST kit for 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra. Bolted up perfectly, high quality kit. Had the dealer perform a "trim height relearn" to resolve  any issues with the level of the arms for the magneride sensors and the truck drives great. 4" in the front and replaces the factory 1.25" rear block with a 3" rear lift block. Perfectly level. 

IMG_1168.JPG

IMG_1179.JPG

  • 1 month later...
ylm0002 New Member

ylm0002

Posted
Posted
On 6/24/2020 at 10:37 PM, seanscarf said:

Was going back and forth on lift kits for my 2018 Denali. Ended up with ReadyLift 4" SST kit for 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra. Bolted up perfectly, high quality kit. Had the dealer perform a "trim height relearn" to resolve  any issues with the level of the arms for the magneride sensors and the truck drives great. 4" in the front and replaces the factory 1.25" rear block with a 3" rear lift block. Perfectly level. 

IMG_1168.JPG

IMG_1179.JPG

Your truck looks great! This is the appearance I am shooting for. Did you have to install wheel spacers? If so, what size? I see ReadyLift website suggests 1/2" spacers. Also, did you install the lift then take it straight to your local dealership to have them perform the "Trim Height Relearn"? I am wondering if moving the 'neutral' or 'baseline' of the MagneRide sensor will cause any problems in the future. I would assume the sensor has a finite amount of travel and moving the 'baseline' could move the MIN or MAX positions to a point where they would never be reached as the suspension cycles .For that reason,  I really like the idea of changing the length of the MagneRide rod, or installing a bracket similar to what SuspensionMaxx offers, instead of reprogramming the Magneride system. Now that you have been riding this lift for the past few weeks, how are you liking it? Could you please post more pictures/angles? Thanks! 

  • 2 weeks later...
1badtie Enthusiast

1badtie

Posted
Posted
On 6/24/2020 at 10:37 PM, seanscarf said:

Was going back and forth on lift kits for my 2018 Denali. Ended up with ReadyLift 4" SST kit for 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra. Bolted up perfectly, high quality kit. Had the dealer perform a "trim height relearn" to resolve  any issues with the level of the arms for the magneride sensors and the truck drives great. 4" in the front and replaces the factory 1.25" rear block with a 3" rear lift block. Perfectly level. 

 

What size tires are those?

 

On 6/24/2020 at 10:37 PM, seanscarf said:

 

 

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Dannyboydenali New Member

Dannyboydenali

Posted
Posted
On 6/24/2020 at 10:37 PM, seanscarf said:

Was going back and forth on lift kits for my 2018 Denali. Ended up with ReadyLift 4" SST kit for 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra. Bolted up perfectly, high quality kit. Had the dealer perform a "trim height relearn" to resolve  any issues with the level of the arms for the magneride sensors and the truck drives great. 4" in the front and replaces the factory 1.25" rear block with a 3" rear lift block. Perfectly level. 

IMG_1168.JPG

IMG_1179.JPGSo it’s the kit for the regular Sierra not the magneride kit? 

  • 2 months later...
Denali256 New Member

Denali256

Posted
Posted
On 6/24/2020 at 10:37 PM, seanscarf said:

Was going back and forth on lift kits for my 2018 Denali. Ended up with ReadyLift 4" SST kit for 2014-2018 Silverado/Sierra. Bolted up perfectly, high quality kit. Had the dealer perform a "trim height relearn" to resolve  any issues with the level of the arms for the magneride sensors and the truck drives great. 4" in the front and replaces the factory 1.25" rear block with a 3" rear lift block. Perfectly level. 

IMG_1168.JPG

IMG_1179.JPG

Do you have a link for this kit?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...