Jump to content

2014 Sierra Won't Start


Stric_IX

Recommended Posts

Posted

I went to drive the truck yesterday and when I twisted the key the dash lit up then everything died.  I have been getting a service theft system and trailer brake system teh past few weeks and thought maybe it was the theft system causing it not to start. So I left and came back a few hours later.  Checked the battery and it was 12.6v so I knew it was good.  I was really frustrated at this point and once again left it for a while.  After doing some reading I saw where people were saying that it could be the ground cable.  So reluctantly I went and checked it thinking that the fix couldn't be that simple.  It was.  As soon as I touched the cable I heard it arc and then I was able to unlock and lock with the key fob. So power was restored. 

 

Now onto my question.  I know I can replace the entire cable but as an alternative solution could I just put a new terminal on it?  Just an aftermarket terminal and a new battery terminal.  Also this is for the ground.  Not the power.  I know physically it will work and as long as it gets a good connection then electrically it will work as well.  My only concern is how finicky these trucks are with all their electronics. 

 

If the terminal thing is a no go then where is the cheapest place to get a cable?

Posted

My guess, having been through this on two separate GM trucks, is that the problem is either on the engine/body ground side, or the middle of the ground cable, and not at the battery terminal end. But if you replace it and it works, let us all know.

Good luck. I found an OEM cable on EBay for the cheapest, but your mileage may very.  

Posted

I think I found my answer. I saw where someone else in this forum built his own cables out of 4 gauge wire. I think I'm going to do the same.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 10/7/2018 at 2:00 PM, Stric_IX said:

I went to drive the truck yesterday and when I twisted the key the dash lit up then everything died.  I have been getting a service theft system and trailer brake system teh past few weeks and thought maybe it was the theft system causing it not to start. So I left and came back a few hours later.  Checked the battery and it was 12.6v so I knew it was good.  I was really frustrated at this point and once again left it for a while.  After doing some reading I saw where people were saying that it could be the ground cable.  So reluctantly I went and checked it thinking that the fix couldn't be that simple.  It was.  As soon as I touched the cable I heard it arc and then I was able to unlock and lock with the key fob. So power was restored. 

 

Now onto my question.  I know I can replace the entire cable but as an alternative solution could I just put a new terminal on it?  Just an aftermarket terminal and a new battery terminal.  Also this is for the ground.  Not the power.  I know physically it will work and as long as it gets a good connection then electrically it will work as well.  My only concern is how finicky these trucks are with all their electronics. 

 

If the terminal thing is a no go then where is the cheapest place to get a cable?

Hi, Whit. I hope you’re able to get your Sierra back in running order. If this problem still persists, and you’re considering visiting your servicing GM dealership, we would be happy to work alongside them, to determine the root cause. Thanks!  

Anthony J.

Posted

So I ended up taking it in to the dealer since I had an extended warranty and a few other non related issues that needed to be repaired (multiple warnings on the dash, park sensors, trailer brake, etc.).  They called me and told me that the negative battery cable wouldn't tighten down on the post enough.  Their reason was because it was a non oem battery and sometimes the cables won't fit the posts on aftermarket batteries.  The battery itself is good voltage wise but they want to sell me an oem battery to fix this loose connection.  I'm almost certain there is a problem with the cable itself.  Does it sound legitimate or an attempt to sell me a battery?

Posted

 

8 minutes ago, Stric_IX said:

So I ended up taking it in to the dealer since I had an extended warranty and a few other non related issues that needed to be repaired (multiple warnings on the dash, park sensors, trailer brake, etc.).  They called me and told me that the negative battery cable wouldn't tighten down on the post enough.  Their reason was because it was a non oem battery and sometimes the cables won't fit the posts on aftermarket batteries.  The battery itself is good voltage wise but they want to sell me an oem battery to fix this loose connection.  I'm almost certain there is a problem with the cable itself.  Does it sound legitimate or an attempt to sell me a battery?

If that is the case you could always pick up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0843PT-Universal-Battery-Package/dp/B001QRTXCM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...