The best lift for my Silverado

[Pepe1]

I’m looking to buy a lift kit for my 2018 Silverado. I plan to buy some 22x12 -44 offset on 33’s. Do you guys have any recommendations for lift kits, I’m looking for good ride quality. If you know if any kits that you have experienced let me know. 

[TXGREEK]

I’m looking to buy a lift kit for my 2018 Silverado. I plan to buy some 22x12 -44 offset on 33’s. Do you guys have any recommendations for lift kits, I’m looking for good ride quality. If you know if any kits that you have experienced let me know. 

 Best ride quality will be the CST 4.5” lift. I’ve got it with the 2.5 CoilOver up front and with resi’s in rear on my 2018, CrewCab, Z71, SLT 6.2. The freaking truck rides better than stock. Front track width stays the same and turning radius stays stock. I absolutely LOVE it!

 

https://cstsuspension.com/

 

 

Running 20x9’s plus 1 offset, Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/60/20

 

[rkj__]

-44 offset?  Your hubs are going to hate you, lol.  That's almost three inches more than stock.

 

 

[TXGREEK]

-44 offset?  Your hubs are going to hate you, lol.  That's almost three inches more than stock.
 
 

Not an expert on that, wouldn’t go by anything else other than what a manufacturer says, avoid Rough Country like the plague unless you you don’t mind having lots of future issues. I’ve owned ProComp, BDS and Fabtech. Call them up in California and they’ll say yes or no but remember, every manufacturer rides differently and IMHO and with lots of experience, CST blows them all away in ride quality.

[TXGREEK]

Forgot to mention, with CST you don’t cut your differential or your frame, just small tabs off which means you can at anytime take the lift off and put back to stock after you weld the couple tabs back on. Last lifted truck I had, with lots into it beat me up driving it and wished I could’ve put it back to stock, nope, not without thousands to do so on top of the $10K I put into it.

 

[Pepe1]

45 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 Best ride quality will be the CST 4.5” lift. I’ve got it with the 2.5 CoilOver up front and with resi’s in rear on my 2018, CrewCab, Z71, SLT 6.2. The freaking truck rides better than stock. Front track width stays the same and turning radius stays stock. I absolutely LOVE it!

 

https://cstsuspension.com/

 

 

Running 20x9’s plus 1 offset, Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/60/20

 

Sick truck man, looks clean. Did you upgrade the upper control arms and hade to retorque it? 

[Pepe1]

42 minutes ago, rkj__ said:

-44 offset?  Your hubs are going to hate you, lol.  That's almost three inches more than stock.

 

 

Not an expert on this subject. Have you heard of any problems with a wheel having this much offset? 

[TXGREEK]

Sick truck man, looks clean. Did you upgrade the upper control arms and hade to retorque it? 

 

Thanks. No, it’s at completely stock geometry, no need to go switching anything out unless I need to. I’ve owned a ton of lifted trucks, this is the first time I’ve ever looked for excuses to drive it, ride quality is second to none. I’m looking at maybe going to slightly taller (not wider) tires but very happy the way it’s setup, my wife brought up that it rides better than her Yukon Xl lol

[Pepe1]

5 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 

Thanks. No, it’s at completely stock geometry, no need to go switching anything out unless I need to. I’ve owned a ton of lifted trucks, this is the first time I’ve ever looked for excuses to drive it, ride quality is second to none. I’m looking at maybe going to slightly taller (not wider) tires but very happy the way it’s setup, my wife brought up that it rides better than her Yukon Xl lol

Well thanks man definitely looking into cst. Did you use the stage 1 or 2? 

[TXGREEK]

Well thanks man definitely looking into cst. Did you use the stage 1 or 2? 

Did stage 1, they’re both the same, only difference is stage 2 adds rear gas shocks. I’d do the Stage 1 and just add the 2.5 coilovers and rear shocks with resi’s then you’re done, kick ass ride. Good luck, Merry Christmas!

[rkj__]

40 minutes ago, Pepe1 said:

Not an expert on this subject. Have you heard of any problems with a wheel having this much offset? 

There are no shortage of tales you can read on the internet about reduced bearing life, due to wheel spacers, or high negative wheel offset.  The bearings are designed to have their longest life, when the loading from driving straight down the road is approximately centered, and acting at 90 degrees to the bearing's axis - a simple radial load.  When you offset the wheel significantly, you are essentially creating a lever, which twists the bearing, and increases wear. 

 

In this situation, the issue would be compounded by adding heavier wheels and tires too. 

 

But, if you can afford a lift, and a new set of 22s, you can probably afford to replace a few hubs.  It is good to be aware of the consequences though, so you can set your maintenance expectations accordingly. 

 

If you like playing with physics equations, here's a good place to start. 

 

https://www.cedengineering.com/userfiles/automotive_bearing_applications_2555.pdf

 

hub bearings by Ryan Jakob, on Flickr

Edited December 3, 2018 by rkj__

[TXGREEK]

There are no shortage of tales you can read on the internet about reduced bearing life, due to wheel spacers, or high negative wheel offset.  The bearings are designed to have their longest life, when the loading from driving straight down the road is approximately centered, and acting at 90 degrees to the bearing's axis - a simple radial load.  When you offset the wheel significantly, you are essentially creating a lever, which twists the bearing, and increases wear. 
 
In this situation, the issue would be compounded by adding heavier wheels and tires too. 
 
But, if you can afford a lift, and a new set of 22s, you can probably afford to replace a few hubs.  It is good to be aware of the consequences though, so you can set your maintenance expectations accordingly. 
 
If you like playing with physics equations, here's a good place to start. 
 
https://www.cedengineering.com/userfiles/automotive_bearing_applications_2555.pdf
 
hub bearings by Ryan Jakob, on Flickr

This is why I’m running 20x9 +1 offset.

[jimmyboy8301]

I'd say your best 3 options are the BDS 4", CST 4.5", and Zone 4.5"

[TXGREEK]

I'd say your best 3 options are the BDS 4", CST 4.5", and Zone 4.5"

CST is the only one that doesn’t cut apart your cross member or your front differential while keeping same stock track width and turning radius. It’s same price as a BDS, ProComp but with the CST you can go back to stock very easily, not the others.

[TXGREEK]

A buddy of mine that owns a few car dealerships, he WILL NOT take in a Rough Country lifted truck, way to much damage caused by that lift requiring a lot of repairs, not worth the hassle. It’s definitely something to think about when modifying your truck and possibly trading it in later. My buddy also told me a used truck with a CST lift is much easier selling than any others due to its ability to go back to stock with minimal work required to do so.