Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Back again, next winter season, same issue.  Completely random no starts via fob.  I don’t have app access unless they offer a free trial.  I haven’t taken it to the dealer yet, but I will soon.

 

I only use the remote start in winter and everything was going well, until it didn’t start before leaving for work (11/22/19).  Since then, I started an excel spreadsheet with date, time, temperature, method (fob 1x/2x or key), failed ( Yes or No), and info columns.  The 1x/2x for the fob is my way of keeping track if I only used I once or hit it again to get another 10 min of warming up.  All entries are 1x.  Thinking about it now, I should have kept track if it was running or not when I put the key in and left.

 

I kept track of every start, even with the key.  I was hoping to see a pattern or something that I can take to the dealer to help pinpoint the issue.  On 12/19, it started fine with the fob.  Made a stop at a gas station 15 min later and used the key (log entry 37) to start it.  When it was cranking, it just stopped like I let go of the key.  This isn’t the first time this has happened either.  I noticed it a handful of times since I owned the truck, random times, random seasons.  The next failure came at log entry 100 (weird lol) and it was via the fob.  Same story, lights flash once.

 

Since entry 100, I’ve only been keeping track of remote starts.  Today, entry 120, 10 degrees, failed with fob, lights flash once.  I was pissed off all the way home lol.  
 

I have zero faith with my dealer and when I take it in next, I will go to a different one, hoping a different set of eyes may solve the issue.  I know there are wiring diagrams out there, but does anyone have a ladder diagram of the remote system?  I’ll trouble shoot it myself (not the dealers way of trying it a few times and say “looks good to me”).  A ladder diagram would be beneficial so I can see what permissives need to be met in order for the fob to work.  Plus what volts or ohms the items require to tell the truck to start via the fob because all conditions are met.  I know hood, doors, low oil, low fuel are some, (all?)

 

until then, I’ll continue with my log.  Since this has started to be an issue and the sometimes random key start hiccups, I’m leaning towards a bad ground.  Somewhere.

Edited by RPOD71
Typo
Posted

Thanks, this will give me a good start.  I found an 1100 page pdf on GM Upfitter that I browsed briefly.  Seems to have everything electrical.  Should be a good read when I start nights later this week.  I have unlimited paper at my disposal, but I probably need a few toner cartridges to print it all out at work lol.

Posted

Good luck. I have access to identifix and a dealer parts website, if you need anything else just ask.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 7 months later...
Posted

I'm crossing my fingers..  took my truck in for a ticking/tinging sound in the drivetrain and brought up the 'ole intermittent starting issue (again). 

 

This time I had it on video failing.  Not sure if it helped, but the mechanic wanted to see the video.  So long story short, it stayed there overnight and when I picked it up the next day, the diagnosis was a bad (out of spec negative battery cable under load)

 

It was dropping over 280mv and should be less than 200.  Also said my "driving habits" were not helping the battery charge because I only drive about 30 min to work.  Battery was slightly undercharged, which they also corrected.

 

I'm hopeful the negative cable was the culprit.  Real head scratcher about my commute not enough to charge the battery though.  It's 3/4 highway speeds.

 

Side note, the ticking sound was the driveshaft 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I had this exact same thing happen to my 2018 GMC Sierra All Terrain. It was a faulty hood latch, causing the truck to go in to theft mode. Replaced hood latch - good to go. 

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I would like to know if any of you having this same problem ever found the solution??  I just got my 2014 Silverado that has remote start. (fob only as far as I know.  If there is an app, I’m not familiar with it yet 😬).  Most of the time the remote start works just fine, but randomly it wont.  Today as I was walking to the truck I heard the very fast bump of the starter like someone mentioned above.  After that I tried unlocking then lock/start multiple times and it didn’t attempt again.  Started the truck and no CEL.  Any help is appreciated 👍👌

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...