Jump to content

My Tahoe LS Build...next steps


Recommended Posts

Posted

Wanted to show off a bit of my LS build. This has not been a complicated build nor a expensive one. This is the family hauler and the grocery getter, nevertheless, by my standards it needs to be fun to drive look good while at it.

 

Overall I’ve been very happy with the SUV since day one although there a some things that I knew had to be changed.

 

Engine Mods

 

First thing is the acceleration...I’ve had the Tahoe with a Trifecta tune since May last year. Very happy with it since it improves the ECU, TCU and even the ABS to hold back the nannies...not that I would need that last bit unless I track it (which I wont). I even asked Trifecta to increase the idle rpm by 50 since the Tahoe was having the shakies on a stand still and it eliminated the issue.

 

I paired the tune with a AFE CAI, that really opened up the engine quite a bit plus the sound coming from the intake is amazing. Even with the tune and CAI the truck felt a bit sluggish during part throttle and mid range power, it was better don’t get me wrong but I still had to almost floor it to even have it to shift down. Thats when I went a bit further into porting and polishing the TB. Upon doing that I noticed there is a big step in the TB right before the valve opening, that step is there to decrease the air speed coming in and keep fuel economy up. Once I eliminated that and polished the TB opening into a continuous surface the throttle characteristics of the truck changed a lot. This by far has been one of the best mods to date and it only cost me $40 for the grinding stones. The throttle responds more like a car and less like a tow truck. The kick-down is now actually responsive, finally.

 

bf1fc7a38e535ee2e49d7b14faece854.jpg

eb414b383e5ff658194e34d55e40f49d.jpg

 

Interior Mods

 

The LS radio sucks big time so I ended up installing a Pioneer touch screen with Carplay. Pretty happy since it cost me all about $500 with specials and that included all the interface harnesses to keep the steering wheel controls and Onstar. With the elimination of the OE radio I now had a big hole where the radio controls used to be so I went ahead and designed a lid with the chevy logo on it and had it 3D printed. Very happy with how it looks, almost like a stock part I’d say.

 

c8156094caecbfe4c7142643abbc3883.jpgbcdfb6f5115a2dc635e23430c11f328c.jpg

 

Exterior Mods

 

Started out by purchasing a set of 22 GMC style rims paired with a set of Goodyear Eagle AS tires. Next goal was to make the truck stand out from the rest so after visiting the Chevy dealer and seeing the RST models l decided that painting the grille was the best mod for me. I didn’t want to keep the LS grille so I ended up getting a very good deal on Ebay from a guy selling a LTZ grille that had been scrapped by another car at the parking lot. Ended up painting it with Dupont base and clear on top of Epoxy primer for a quality pro finish that will last.

 

Next Im thinking of installing a set of fog lights and swapping the headlight bulbs with LEDs.

 

38aad0f3ef650026e29bc4e5292f420e.jpgce2af0785b2bf82408cea7ff83d35bf0.jpg

 

Im very pleased with the results so far...looks sharp and its very fun to drive. Next I am looking into improving the exhaust, suspension and brakes. The exhaust is a tricky one cause the wife uses the truck most of the time so I don’t want a muscle car rumble unless I am using it so I am think of installing a cut out paired with a set of long headers. I plan to keep the catback stock so I can keep that stock tone when the wife is hauling the kids.

 

As for the brakes I will focus on using better brake fluid, thinking about using the silicone type but not sure yet. Stainless steel lines and a improved set of rotors/pads is in the plan.

 

Suspension?? Still thinking about the options. The least expensive is to use the PPV coils and struts, but not sure if that would make the ride too stiff. I also would love to lower it by around 1.5” inches but that would require more components and more $$$

 

8073d9d0449aac030ff76ef4656e87d1.jpg6eb887e6f12f25f45e8b90068d0498f9.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Nice job. I like the look. Have you thought about putting on Escalade side mirrors? The mirror surface area is much better.

4786de9391e55da6cdf2aeab2bd80b65.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks, as a matter of fact I’ve thought about it but wasn’t sure about how it would look with the chrome strip. After looking at your pics I guess I can black it out..it looks very nice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

That silver accent piece is removable. You can get to it with the mirror caps off.

 

I can help you with the wiring for the puddle lamps, turn signals, power fold, etc. I make a harness that gets those circuits to the doors and in the door harness if needed.

 

I can also make a fog light harness that will allow you to activate them with the correct factory headlight switch.

 

PM me if you’re interested.

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I decided to give it a shot and see what sort of a gong show it would be to a pan drop themed oil change on my 2025 gas truck with the 10 speed. All indications I had seen so far was that there was no way that pan was coming out of there due to the cross over exhaust pipe not allowing enough clearance for the back end of the pan to duck out from under the valve body since it hangs lower than the pan to trans mount flange and certainly the filter does. I never touched any of the exhaust mount hardware at all, be that the engine manifolds to Y pipe, the bracket on the side of the transmission, or the two bolt flange further back behind the trans/transfer case. I put the truck up on four jack stands as there was no way I was going to struggle with that lack of clearance under the truck. The truck was cold as it had sat over night so all the trans fluid had drained to the pan, so I drained the bit of oil that would come out of the level check plug at the bottom near the front of the pan and put the plug back in to reduce the ensuing mess after that. Then took out all but one bolt front and rear and then pushed up on the pan and took out the remaining two bolts and then let the front of the pan tilt and spill out most of its contents into a drain pan. I then popped the pan gasket off its two locating nubs and kicked it a bit to the left side so it was no longer on the flange of the pan to get all the clearance I could and managed to get the pan slipped out of there by swinging the front of the pan to the right but keeping the rear part of the pan inline if not slightly to the left of its mounting flange area and lifting the front of the pan enough to keep the rear part of the pan low enough that allowed the pan to "JUST" slip out without forcing anything. I installed a new trans filter and seal and as per GM instructions on this site I torqued the two bolts to that 44 inch pound goal ( they take an 8 mm socket ) In reversing the pan procedure after I had cleaned up the pan both inside and out completely ( touching the outside of a dirty pan and dealing with installing a gasket at the same time would be a disaster ). First I slipped the pan into place and yes it took me a while as it won't go unless its slid in just at the right angles, then once the back of the pan was into the area of the flange mount, I went and got the gasket and then threaded that through the front of the pan and feeding it under the filter etc and finally working it onto the flange of the pan and lining up the two locating nubs to drop into the pan. Then lifted the pan up into place and get a couple of bolts started and check and make sure the gasket is where its supposed to be as the bolts were being put in. I never used any power tools as I don't have any of the whimsy little drive guns, I use what looks like a small screw driver handle with shank that has a 1/4 drive on the end of it and added an extension and those bolts use a 10 mm socket as some times power tools can bite a person if used on delicate parts ( torqued to 80 inch pounds ). Also should note as per rules around pulling the add plug out first, yes I cracked that loose with a 8 mm Allen bit socket on a 3/8 slim head ratchet as there isn't a lot of room to work with there either due to the exhaust on the right side of the trans.    I already had delco ULV oil on hand and of course the quart bottle pump wasn't made for those small cap threads so I had to use some other containers that the pump would fit and keep transferring oil over into them so a wasted exercise there but indeed the small pump did work just fine as ULV oil is thin and easy to pump in summer time weather. I put in 9.5 quarts as per prior minimum recommendation and yes that cut it pretty close as once I had the truck ( off the jack stands so its level ) and the trans oil up to 167f , about 6 ounces came out but a level kit or what have you could throw it off just enough that it wouldn't be enough oil so probably that 10 quarts is a good amount to put in so one doesn't have to add more oil as when its hot I sure wouldn't want to be adding oil so would have to let the exhaust cool. All I do for warming up the transmission is sit there with it in park and rev it to about 2500 rpm and it takes close to 20 minutes to get it up to that lower limit of 167f, weird how it will warm up more doing that then by driving it, I am not real keen on power braking the truck to get the temp up there and don't seem to have to either. By the way I only have 9000 miles on the truck so probably not a very good payback on doing it that soon and the magnets had such a minor thin layer of fines on them so that was good to see and the color of the oil was a darker red then new oil but still looked very good as it should and I've not done any towing with it so its been living a pretty easy life so far. The filter is made in such a way that its next to impossible to pull out the filter media but there certainly was some fines showing up there which makes sense give the trans having to break in.    I hadn't really planned on explaining this much of what I had done since there are various instruction videos kicking around or I think so, as the gist of my message as that by fluke or what have you, for some reason my truck has just enough clearance to slip the pan out from the trans. Of course there is no guarantee that other trucks like this in general will also allow the pan to be taken out without messing with the exhaust as I expect its probably a crap shoot if it will or won't, I was just happy to find out that mine would work and avoid all the other struggling and possibly damaging things in the process,     
    • Do you fellas think Fog Lamps would  be a good upgrade for our 2024 2500 HD Custom ? As you probably know it did not come with them ,  Would you put in GM Chevy parts ? Do they get wired up to the switch panel ( Upfitter or whatever the correct terminology is ) on the dash ? Thanks
    • You got a 4 legged walker or a 4 wheel rollater?
    • Does lowering the truck change its towing capacity?  I wouldn't mind lowering mine, but I loan it out a few times during the summer for my daughter to pull her travel trailer (5,000lbs).
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...