power running boards not working

[jpal]

so.. i'll add to this - and seek some help also...

i picked up a used 2017 recently  - it had the tri-mode boards - but when i picked it up they were missing.. excuse was one didn't work (suddenly) so they took them off and threw them out (liars)..

located a used set from same year same truck -  got half a story - but cheap.. i pulled them completely apart - you have to wirebrush the arm spindle bushings top n bottom till clean and shiny - clean out around the oil seals - add wheel bearing grease - reassemble.. wirebrush the motor and slave shaft - note that slave shaft will come out thru the top - after you remover the rubber cap.. shine that right up - grease - replace - apply some grease to rubber cap then replace.. mine had a slight crack where the shaft top had penetrated - black caulk on clean surface - sealed.. clean and remove all dirt etc - rust reformer to the entire bracket - replace wire clips.. the motor - same rubber cap - under the 2 bolts top of motor housing - rear end fluid - be careful not to spill ..

can't tell you how to remove the wire clip from the rear toe switch - i'm lost as to how to safely remove it w/o breaking it - a specialty - ha.. i do believe the switch is air activated - but will not come apart with the wire connector attached..

driver side rear arm - top under step had missing collar at oil seal - and oil seal was trashed - can't buy parts - so it's buy the entire arm (130.00) and hope it comes with new seals and poly red bushing sleeves.. will see.. meanwhile i fabricated a double cap n sleeve from plastic to help keep out debris - it rides on the step surface and comes down like an inch - sealed the bottom with caulk for now - greased and reinstalled..

both clean and fresh paint and all arms work effortlessly.. installed onto truck - middle lower bolt on both sides needed a bar to persuade the bracket to bow 1/8" to line up.. 

replaced the fuse - #74 - 30amp.. opened drivers doors.. f nothing..

opened pass doors - step comes out fast / delay / closes fast.. toe switch doesn't work - but dash button makes the pass board open out - then go to rear - then return to open - then close.. it's ok - since i have a cover and never reach into the bed alongside the truck - keeps it from being scratched..

drivers side - motor will not turn.. i hear the controller click - but nothing.. can't say what the large nut with bigger locknut on front of gear housing does - but unscrewing it 1" and the fluid leaks out.. i tried testing power with a cheap light - i got nothing from motor plug or controller plugs - maybe i am not the elec expert - wish someone was..

bottom line - i know i can buy a replacement arm online at a gm outlet - approx 130.00 .. the foot switch isn't a deal breaker at all - maybe washing the sliding rear window - i'll stand on a bucket..

the motor - is like 375-435 depending.. i hear they sell remanu ones at auto parts places.. like 180-200.. not sure i trust those- i've heard stories.. good n bad.. i'd say the pass motor is fine.. the mechanical condition and parts - fine.. these appear to require 2-4 times a year drop the arms n boards - clean the spindles of old dirty grease - regrease - reinstall.. not too bad - prob a 1 hr job on the ground max.

but - an arm - 130 + a motor 400 + maybe another motor ..? when or controller 225..?

and will it just be that motor ... or is something frozen inside the gear box.. 

there is no video / or bulletin or post that shows an exploded view or details or instructions as to how to take apart diagnose or repair .. 

 

i wrote this so that maybe it helps someone else ... to do each step - wash / wipe n clean / pull apart and really clean like new the movements n grease / rust converter - like 4 hrs easy each - but they look like new.. a little mothers on the chrome (can't touch up the foot wear..?) they look great..

install from scratch never seeing them on a truck - on the ground - just pick up one end and thread a long bolt half in.. middle bottom bolt - loose.. back bolt ( remember 2 long bolts at back - one top - one thru the thicker alum @ the tail.. took approx 4 hrs - i man - applying grease inbetween everything to prevent the rust - then trying to get them to work.  there is some time here.. deciding whether to keep them and spend more - or sell them and buy aftermarket.. the kicker is they look good - are wide and very solid - work with the truck and wiring like simple vs rewiring which from other videos could be 6- 10 hrs of ripping carpet let alone the center console.. 

and forget buying brand new - at 3300.. a set.. 

so - if anyone is out there  - and you know more and can help - great.. have some parts i need - great - are interested in maybe buying these and want to see a video or pictures on the truck and working and condition - please.. i'll be checking in.. 

thanks.

jp

[KMP259]

We ended up taking the Articulating running boards off to clean the corrosion off of the SS pivots and brass bushings. We broke some of the collar that hold the seal on one of the arms trying to get it off ....had to beat the arm and pry it off of the arms on the running board....

In doing so, we found the seals at McMaster Carr so we replaced the seals & reassembled the pivots on the running boards..

 

Also we cleaned up the pivots with 320 Emory cloth and polished the studs while adding Zerk fittings to add grease for better lubrication in the future.

 

The McMaster part number is 5154T71 which is 40mm OD....30mm ID.... for a rotary shaft. 

 

Hope this helps others

[Allen Thiel]

Thanks for posting guys I picked up a 2018 and all was well until recently the passenger side would start to come out but at 75% extension it would pull back in. I didn’t know where to start and came here. So a little WD-40 and viola’ works as it should. I’m going to apply something with a little more body to help keep the dust and salt out before thanksgiving would LPS be a candidate?  
 

Thanks