Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Don't know on 3500 but when I was having problems with mine they said its all located under rear bed spare tire.

 

 

Edited by elcamino
Posted

Did you see this in the Q & A section?

 

GM part number 23114650 replaces 23104453. However, both part numbers have been updated and replaced. The current part number that a GM dealer would recommend is 23337305.

  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, NYRESCUE said:

I checked but didn't see anything when I dropped the tire.

You sure the truck has this feature?  Cannot be added.

Posted

Should be a bracket, left rear of the frame.  If you drop the spare, assuming its a pickup, you should see a module on a bracket.  The trailer brake control module is on top of the bracket. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

OK, I found it..yep its on top of another module when you drop the tire. Thanks!  I replaced it with the part I listed above, not knowing there was a new version. Is this still ok or will I still get the disconnected message with this version?

Edited by NYRESCUE
  • Like 1
  • 5 years later...
Posted

Hey all. I have a 2015 3500HD with the trailer brake message. I am told by the dealer that there are two modules that look exactly alike, but only one is for the trailer brake controller. I found one of them, thinking it was the correct one, and replaced the module, but this did not fix the issue. This truck has a service body, and a second gas tank where the spare tire would typically go. Dealer states that the second module should be above the spare tire location where the additional fuel tank is now located. I looked above the tank as best I could, but could not locate the other module. Can anyone tell me where it could be located? The one I replaced was easy to find. It was on the front of the rear fuel tank, next to the fuel pump control module. As for module I'm looking for, can anyone give me some insight?

Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, dougefish said:

Hey all. I have a 2015 3500HD with the trailer brake message. I am told by the dealer that there are two modules that look exactly alike, but only one is for the trailer brake controller. I found one of them, thinking it was the correct one, and replaced the module, but this did not fix the issue. This truck has a service body, and a second gas tank where the spare tire would typically go. Dealer states that the second module should be above the spare tire location where the additional fuel tank is now located. I looked above the tank as best I could, but could not locate the other module. Can anyone tell me where it could be located? The one I replaced was easy to find. It was on the front of the rear fuel tank, next to the fuel pump control module. As for module I'm looking for, can anyone give me some insight?

 

 

Sounds like you have a 3500HD chassis cab so the dealer would be incorrect in their explanation.  Pickup trucks or box delete pickups which would use the regular boxed frame, the modules would be above the spare on a bracket. 

 

 

Chassis cab so the big open C channel rear frame rail trucks, its different.  See below.   

 

Trailer brake is operated via the chassis control module (the big guy), the trailer brake power control module (the little guy), and then the trailer brake control switch in the dash.  The switch in the dash is a common failure point too, so don't rule that out.  The system does set codes which have diagnostic trees to follow as well.  

 

 

chassiscab.png.159160d2a023369a751c57d8af9634dc.png

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...