Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2014 Silverado WT1, a couple days ago I added a backup camera, and a thermometer to the aux male spade in the drivers side fuse box. About the time I was wrapping everything up, the power went off on the new products I put in, and the power windows on the drivers side of the truck quit working (both front and back). I figured I had wired something wrong, so I unhooked the backup camera and thermometer and checked the fuses. To my surprise they all were good, so I checked the fuses in the box under the hood, they to were good. I also checked the passenger side fuse box and all those fuses were good as well. I used a ohm meter on all the fuses I checked, because I have missed a blown fuse before with just a visual inspection. I tested the hi pwr relays behind the driver side fuse box by adding power to the proper leads then ohm testing them as well, everything is good. The switch on the driver side door will work the passenger side windows, but not the driver side windows. When I shut the door none of the lights that normally would go off now stay on as well as the radio. Also the little male bald has no power to it either. I’m completely at a loss, any help would be highly appreciated.

Posted

Did you physically test the fuses?

 

 Do you have power at the switch?

 

 How about at the drivers window motor?

 

 What about pulling the negative cable and letting it sit for a while then power it back up?

 

 Does the door ajar light stay lit when the drivers door is shut?

Posted

Yes tested each fuse with ohm tester after pulling every fuse in the truck. There is main power to switch ( I think it is red and purple wire) . I would think motor , but the rear window does not work either. I took the negative cable off overnight, and no luck, and yes all the lights stay on, radio, lights on panel etc. I keep going back to no power to the blad plug on the fuse block itself, which makes me believe there is something wrong in the fuse block? But I also wonder if I somehow burnt a ground wire out somewhere. The ground between the fuse block and door switch also showed no resistance when the ohm meter was used, so that was good. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I have the same problem with my truck. Did you ever find out what was wrong with it?

On 2/12/2020 at 11:16 PM, Tony H said:

Yes tested each fuse with ohm tester after pulling every fuse in the truck. There is main power to switch ( I think it is red and purple wire) . I would think motor , but the rear window does not work either. I took the negative cable off overnight, and no luck, and yes all the lights stay on, radio, lights on panel etc. I keep going back to no power to the blad plug on the fuse block itself, which makes me believe there is something wrong in the fuse block? But I also wonder if I somehow burnt a ground wire out somewhere. The ground between the fuse block and door switch also showed no resistance when the ohm meter was used, so that was good. 

 

Posted

My buddy and I think the problem is in the switch and the connecter that the actual switch plugs into. There was one prong in there that was damaged and we jammed a piece of wire in there in order to get the window to go up. So the drivers side window works but the switch doesn’t work on any other windows but if you disconnect the drivers side switch the other windows work by using there own switch. Also after we did the quick fix the computer says the door is open also the alarm wouldn’t work either but now the stereo turns off lol. I’m ordering the switch and the wiring harness or just the plug that goes into the switch to try that and see what happens. I’m hoping the ecu is not fried also. Let me know if you figure anything else out and I will do the same 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...