Jump to content

Suspension Lift with Max Tow.

Sierra50BMG

Recommended Posts

Sierra50BMG Enthusiast

Sierra50BMG

Posted
Posted

New here, 

just got a 20 1500 SLT 6.2L w/ Max Tow.

There is very little information available about suspension lift compatibility with the Max Tow package. I’ve read that some kits will not work because the springs are different on the front, I know they’re a heavier spring rate and the shocks are revised all the way around, I would like to know what my options are, if there are any. I would also like to keep the same ride and towing capacity, but with longer travel. I have some questions below, I apologize for the long intro.

1. I know I have the max tow package but I have no NHT RPO code.

2. What suspension lift and long travel shocks will keep the ride similar to what it is now?

3. Currently on 275/60R20 ATs(true 33”), what height will allow for 34-35” tire? I’ve checked the clearance with the 33 and it is very tight at full lock, therefore going bigger without a lift would not work imo.

4. Anybody swapped their 20x9 wheel for an 18x8.5? I pulled the truck into the dealer and they pulled the 20 off and put an 18 on, it will fit(barely) as long as it’s the same offset. Just curious if anybody’s done it and had issues.

 

Thanks in advance!

D8BABDF5-CF8D-499C-B60C-02F74B695528.jpeg

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply
TRKLGND Enthusiast

TRKLGND

Posted
Posted

If you don't have the NHT RPO code how do you know you have the max tow package?  I have never seen a factory installed option where there was no RPO code.

Sierra50BMG Enthusiast

Sierra50BMG

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There’s a few codes I wasn’t able to

identify. But I have the 6.2L, heavier rear end, 3.42 gears, definitely have the max tow suspension( I drove all 3 suspension options), has the upgraded radiator, the 220 amp alternator, and the window sticker says it’s there. I read somewhere you couldn’t get certain options with the max tow like a 2 speed t-case, I have that, I have the Z82 tow package code, the only thing I can think of is they’ve changed some codes for 2020 and haven’t released them. 

Sierra50BMG Enthusiast

Sierra50BMG

Posted
  • Author
Posted

3GTU9DEL6LG280993,2020,TK10743,02,20,01,XNJSDG, AXK AY0 A2X A50 A7K CF5 CJ2 C6A DD8 DEZ EF7 E63 FE9 FE9 FJW F48 GA0 GU6 G80 H1Y IOT I20 J61 KW5 L87 MAH MQB MSL NP5 NTB NZM N10 QAE QAQ RM7 UDD UQA U2K V8D WML Z60 Z82 Z88 4AA 4SA 4SA 6SK 7SK 8AV 9AV,619D

This is what I got when I scanned the QR code.

OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted

That list is nowhere near complete for a work truck, let alone an SLT. The QR code on the door jamb doesn’t pull everything up. Email: [email protected] to request the build sheet.

 

At any rate, GU6 is there in the list you posted, which is the 3.42 axle. No other possible way to get 3.42s in that configuration so you definitely have NHT.

Sierra50BMG Enthusiast

Sierra50BMG

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I figured something was off when I pulled those codes. 
Thinking I’m going to wait for Bilstein to get their front 5100s out. From experience I know they offer a firm ride with longer travel than what’s on there now.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, Sierra50BMG said:

New here, 

just got a 20 1500 SLT 6.2L w/ Max Tow.

There is very little information available about suspension lift compatibility with the Max Tow package. I’ve read that some kits will not work because the springs are different on the front, I know they’re a heavier spring rate and the shocks are revised all the way around, I would like to know what my options are, if there are any. I would also like to keep the same ride and towing capacity, but with longer travel. I have some questions below, I apologize for the long intro.

1. I know I have the max tow package but I have no NHT RPO code.

2. What suspension lift and long travel shocks will keep the ride similar to what it is now?

3. Currently on 275/60R20 ATs(true 33”), what height will allow for 34-35” tire? I’ve checked the clearance with the 33 and it is very tight at full lock, therefore going bigger without a lift would not work imo.

4. Anybody swapped their 20x9 wheel for an 18x8.5? I pulled the truck into the dealer and they pulled the 20 off and put an 18 on, it will fit(barely) as long as it’s the same offset. Just curious if anybody’s done it and had issues.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

I was able to verify that its got NHT.  

 

The issue with lifting NHT is that the spring rate and shocks are set for the higher payload/towing capacity.

 

What is your "want" or "need" for  "longer travel"?    

 

Also factory 18" wheels should fit with more room with stock tires as the diameter is smaller. 

Sierra50BMG Enthusiast

Sierra50BMG

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Confirmed as well I got the build sheet for it. I need longer travel for when I’m off road camping and hunting. 
was thinking about helper springs in the rear with 5100 shocks and then 5100 struts whenever they come out. 

I think with that set up I can get a little lift in the front and with the helper springs keep the rake but not sacrifice my towing capacity

topgear1224 Enthusiast

topgear1224

Posted
Posted

i have spent the last 2 weeks looking at suspension options. if you are going to lift the truck, most companies kits wont work with stock wheels. the ones that do only work with the 20's, so you are good there.

I have the 275/60R20 as well. most lift kits say i need a 3 inch to go 33's (which i already have), and a 6inch to go to 35's........... still waiting on emails back not trying to go that high with all the ice up here in Alaska, and since i tend to max my payload out when towing. if that is the case i will just grab some Icons, have a custom spring pack made and throw some air bags on it.

 

"Max Trailering Package, includes 9.76" rear axle, (GU6) 3.42 axle ratio, enhanced cooling radiator, revised shock tuning for increased control, heavier duty rear springs, increased RGAWR and (KW5) 220-amp alternator" 

front spring capacity is 3700 lbs. or 3800 lbs. (4x2, 4x4) for all CC models, NHT  increases rear from 3850 lbs. to 4150 lbs..

 

A lot of kits state they are only compatible with crew cab short beds, (I have an LM2 CC Standard bed so double no-go for me.) 

 

The downward travel on these suspensions is not just limited by the strut there is a "limit tab" towards the rear of the strut cradle ( Droop limiter)

upward travel is limited by the bump stop located at in the upper strut housing. (compression limiter)

 

All this means is that longer struts alone will not increase travel however may move the ride height up  within the factory range. (trading downward travel for height, similar to maxing out torsion arms.) Over-sized knuckles could increase travel but you have to watch your drive line and ball joint angles. 

 

lift kits will be built around non-NHT trucks, this means you could end up with a kit that "lowers" your towing capacity. (not enough shock for the max tow springs, if it replaces the springs, spring rate will be built on non-NHT rates) 

 

The shock rate is why Chevy excluded NHT trucks from its 2 inch lift kit. 

topgear1224 Enthusiast

topgear1224

Posted
Posted
21 hours ago, newdude said:

 

I was able to verify that its got NHT.  

 

The issue with lifting NHT is that the spring rate and shocks are set for the higher payload/towing capacity.

 

What is your "want" or "need" for  "longer travel"?    

 

Also factory 18" wheels should fit with more room with stock tires as the diameter is smaller. 

only stock wheels lift kits are currently compatible with are the 20's due to knuckle interference. level kits don't have that issue though. 

Sierra50BMG Enthusiast

Sierra50BMG

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok. Let’s focus on suspension lift.

 

Aside from reducing the payload, will lift kits be compatible? My point being, there’s plenty of options for AAL or like you said Air bags. Front strut payload I’m not concerned with, squatting in the rear I am. I don’t tow much or often, but it was either a 2500 or the Max Tow which had a better rebate and everything I wanted. I’ve been looking for setups with a higher spring rate that’s still going to offer that firmness but hard to find.

 

Thank you for the info. Keep me updated on what you go with.

Sierra50BMG Enthusiast

Sierra50BMG

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 minutes ago, topgear1224 said:

The shock rate is why Chevy excluded NHT trucks from its 2 inch lift kit. 

im going to call my dealer today and ask if their front lift would work but put Bilsteins in the rear with AALs. I think the  5100s accommodate 1” in the rear and that’s easily attainable with AALs. 

topgear1224 Enthusiast

topgear1224

Posted
Posted
Ok. Let’s focus on suspension lift.  

Aside from reducing the payload, will lift kits be compatible? My point being, there’s plenty of options for AAL or like you said Air bags. Front strut payload I’m not concerned with, squatting in the rear I am. I don’t tow much or often, but it was either a 2500 or the Max Tow which had a better rebate and everything I wanted. I’ve been looking for setups with a higher spring rate that’s still going to offer that firmness but hard to find.

 

Thank you for the info. Keep me updated on what you go with.

 

Always shop the vehicle not the deal. It's a 1/2 ton, it will squat. Airbags will help that but then you lose most of your downward articulation. (I would be buying a 100% custom long travel set.) 

The front struts issue will show up when trying to turn or stop as the weight shifts. All this assumes that you are going to exploit the 17,800 GCWR. (6.2 max tow)

 

Basically if you are gonna actually tow over 9k you aren't going to really want to play with these suspensions much.

 

To answer your question the kits will fit. whether or not the lift kits that are compatible with crew cab short beds are compatible with crew cab standard beds? you'll have to ask the manufacturer. it's likely the rear driveshaft angle would be the limiting factor.

 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

topgear1224 Enthusiast

topgear1224

Posted
Posted
im going to call my dealer today and ask if their front lift would work but put Bilsteins in the rear with AALs. I think the  5100s accommodate 1” in the rear and that’s easily attainable with AALs. 
You will not have a warranty if you only install part of the kit (assuming you're talking about the Chevrolet Performance kit) so you might as well go and get a leveling let's from somebody else. For much cheaper.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Sierra50BMG Enthusiast

Sierra50BMG

Posted
  • Author
Posted
24 minutes ago, topgear1224 said:

You will not have a warranty if you only install part of the kit (assuming you're talking about the Chevrolet Performance kit) so you might as well go and get a leveling let's from somebody else. For much cheaper.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

Dealer told me 90% of the time they’ll honor the warranty if they do the work. I’m waiting for a response. Trying to see if the kit will work, then play with different options. 
And my need was for a full size pickup with a crew cab and 6’ bed. Towing came second because I don’t tow much or often enough to need a 2500. The options I had  available locally were ******. It was either the truck I got or a $70k Denali 2500. I’m a firm believer 1/2 tons aren’t built for towing. But occasionally hauling the toys out to play, a box trailer, and potentially a tent trailer is all I’ll be doing. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 442 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...