Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have read many threads on here about deleting/relocating DRLs on the 2015-2019 HD Chevrolet trucks. I wasn't ever that concerned with it until I decided to upgrade my headlights. I bought the Morimoto XB headlights (that have not arrived yet) that have the separate LED tubes in them as well as LED headlights. This would also come in handy for HID upgrades as well (not burning them during the day). I wanted the LED tubes to act like the factory DRLS, not the lowbeams. As you may know, GM uses PWM (pulse width modulation) over 1 wire to differentiate between DRL and full low beam. I also wanted to keep all factory automatic headlight operation, just activating LED running lights instead of lowbeams when in gear.  This excluded the pin swap and the switch mod because I wanted the automatic function to remain intact. To the drawing board I went!

 

What I came up with was a harness that will T into the factory harness between the headlight and factory plugs. All wires are passed through except the low beam. The low beam input is redirected to a circuit I created to filter the PWM and only activate a relay when full lowbeam signal is sent. After the circuit design and testing, I got some PCBs made and put it all together.  I then tapped the trailer brake running light fuse to power the circuit so it has power after the truck is shut off until the lights turn off which helps with all of the factory light operation. I have installed everything and it works as expected, I have no DRLS currently with everything else functioning like the factory automatic settings would. I'm just waiting for my headlights to come in so I can get them installed and get the LED tubes hooked into the DRL signal! Here are a few pics of the setup.

 

Harness

 

spacer.png

 

Circuit - I'm going to fill the box with epoxy once completely done for weatherproofing

 

spacer.png

 

Pass Side Tap

 

spacer.png

 

Cross Harness

 

spacer.png

 

Driver Side Tap

 

spacer.png

 

Relay

 

spacer.png

 

Circuit in Box

 

spacer.png

 

 

 

I will get some updated pictures of the DRL operation if my headlights ever arrive! I have been waiting since the beginning of April for them when they were on pre-order. 

Edited by ado
  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Sweet.  So you will be manufacturing and selling these?  By the way, that isn't a question.  

  • Haha 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

That may be a challenge. I wouldn't be able to manufacture them myself on a large scale, but depending on quantities I probably could. I just got an update on the Morimoto XB headlights and they are now saying December 1st as a release date. 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I finally got the XB headlights and what a difference. The LED's act as the DRL now when the truck is in gear. All auto functions work just like factory. No low beams for DRL. 

 

It's dirty...but here are a few pictures. More to come...

 

truck

 

All lights on...

 

Truck-1

 

The pictures don't show the pure white of the lights.

Posted

Excellent.  That is the one thing I miss about my Ford.  I could change the DRLs with software and an OBD2 connector.  We need something similar for GM.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/8/2021 at 12:24 PM, ado said:

I finally got the XB headlights and what a difference. The LED's act as the DRL now when the truck is in gear. All auto functions work just like factory. No low beams for DRL. 

 

It's dirty...but here are a few pictures. More to come...

 

truck

 

All lights on...

 

Truck-1

 

The pictures don't show the pure white of the lights.

Did you have to wire them for the drl's to be on the leds or do they come that way ? I also ordered these for my 2019 and I'm still waiting on them. One thing I'm a little disappointed with after seeing your pictures is it looks like the side marker has an amber lens yet on the trs website they make it look like it's a clear lens with an amber bulb. Looks a million times better than factory headlights !!!! How is the performance? I have the d2s projectors with dense bulbs and computers and I will say I think they'll be hard to beat as far as output. Thanks again for sharing they look great !

Posted

These trucks use 1 wire to the low beams from the factory for the DRL and low beam. The circuit I created and built splits that signal into DRL and low beam for two different bulbs. In this case the DRL portion is wired to the LED strips in the morimoto lights that activate when in gear and the low beams only come on when lights are needed. They do look much better! So far so good on performance, just need to get them adjusted when I can find the time after dark. 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Well I finally got some more pictures up.

 

Daytime running lights, only when in gear. They are brightest here.

 

spacer.png

 

Running lights on. Dims the LED DRL

 

spacer.png

 

Headlights on

 

spacer.png

 

I set the turn signals to scroll, so as one side scrolls, the other stays white.

 

Here is a short video on that. It sped up a little when converting it, I'm not sure why. It does not flash that fast in real time.

 

spacer.png

 

Overall they are working like expected and a big upgrade in my opinion over factory.

 

 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

@adoThis setup is exactly what I am trying to achieve. Can you give any more insite into the harness you made? I would like to try making my own or possibly buy one from you if your selling???

Posted

I second that, I would like to get on that list if your willing to sell the kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...