Jump to content

Bed sheet metal tearing / welds popping - advice

MesaRat
 Share

Recommended Posts

MesaRat Enthusiast

MesaRat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, redwngr said:

I was assuming there were 2 towers.

 

What I was wondering was are the towers only attached to the tops of the bed rails, or do the towers have structure to put the load (or part of it) directly to where the bed mounts to the frame.

they are attached to the bed rails with clamps.  they are hard to see in the pic but they go over the base (which has a groove/slot in it) and attach underneath with a foot that rests on the top of the clamp screw.

 

i drove 150 miles to drop it off a dealer with iCar certification.  they are telling me they have to call GM.

GMC AT4 Enthusiast

GMC AT4

Posted
Posted

My experience with metal is that it will crack when it is flexing over and over. We call it "oil canning". If you are going to keep the rack I would find a way to beef up the areas that the rack is attached to and the areas the are flexing/cracking. Good luck?

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted
On 8/2/2020 at 5:58 PM, georgecdisc said:

I'm a little confused how the rack is stressing the welds. is the portion of the rack normally over the cab as your picture shows? if so I can see how bumpy roads might cause that to act as a giant lever and act upon the front of bed.

 

I've got a mesh backrack, but it is not load bearing except for its own weight. mainly there to prevent firewood from bouncing in bed thru the glass window. do you think this would cause similar issues dues to the stiffening (bed can't flex)? seems like stiffening would assist in keeping those welds from popping, but only to lateral loads not front to back. 

I agree, it seems crazy to me that that rack would cause this problem. I was going to put a rooftop tent over the bed of my truck but maybe not after seeing this. Hopefully I’m just not understanding the the problem.

kf9yr Enthusiast

kf9yr

Posted
Posted

Have you spoken to Thule about the problem?

Were you below their advertised weight limit?




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

MesaRat Enthusiast

MesaRat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 8/18/2020 at 6:44 PM, kf9yr said:

Have you spoken to Thule about the problem?

Were you below their advertised weight limit?




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I haven't spoken with Thule.  I am still waiting, according to the dealer, for GM to decide how to proceed with the repair.  Apparently, another truck in the area has had it happen too, according to the dealer.

 

I've never had the rack with more than 100 lbs on a dirt road and maybe a max of 150 lbs on pavement, all short distances.  Body shop and I believe it is the cantilevered portion flexing the rack down to the bed rails.  I don't think I would have had this problem if I was always on pavement.  Thule only recommends lowering the carrying weight if you go off road and supposedly it holds 500 to 1000 lbs depending on what you read.

 

however, i just keep having bad luck with this truck as a load i was carrying damaged the front of the bed.  how it happened is almost unbelievable.  essentially as i was braking normal and coming down a hill when the truck violently downshifted causing light lock up of the rear and sending stuff flying / breaking my tie down straps.  after that it was back to normal.  i take ultimate responsibility for not securing the load properly but strange.  no CEL, no abnormal stuff afterwards, just carrying about 3000lbs in the bed.

48548 Enthusiast

48548

Posted
Posted
I haven't spoken with Thule.  I am still waiting, according to the dealer, for GM to decide how to proceed with the repair.  Apparently, another truck in the area has had it happen too, according to the dealer.
 
I've never had the rack with more than 100 lbs on a dirt road and maybe a max of 150 lbs on pavement, all short distances.  Body shop and I believe it is the cantilevered portion flexing the rack down to the bed rails.  I don't think I would have had this problem if I was always on pavement.  Thule only recommends lowering the carrying weight if you go off road and supposedly it holds 500 to 1000 lbs depending on what you read.
 
however, i just keep having bad luck with this truck as a load i was carrying damaged the front of the bed.  how it happened is almost unbelievable.  essentially as i was braking normal and coming down a hill when the truck violently downshifted causing light lock up of the rear and sending stuff flying / breaking my tie down straps.  after that it was back to normal.  i take ultimate responsibility for not securing the load properly but strange.  no CEL, no abnormal stuff afterwards, just carrying about 3000lbs in the bed.
Do you have an pics of the front bed pan?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

MesaRat Enthusiast

MesaRat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
26 minutes ago, 48548 said:

Do you have an pics of the front bed pan?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

i think this is what you are asking for.

 

dealer said they can pull it out when they do the other work.

390DB464-89C0-4AEE-AC9E-E2D76662E51B.jpeg

MesaRat Enthusiast

MesaRat

Posted
  • Author
Posted
29 minutes ago, 48548 said:

Do you have an pics of the front bed pan?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

front view

 

 

 

IMG_3905.jpeg

48548 Enthusiast

48548

Posted
Posted

My buddy hauled a pvc pipe and that happened... I had that happen in my gmc someone almost hit me.... I should have let them, I poped them out with pry bars and a punch with rags and boards.. looks mint on my gmc. Mine were dents but I was still pissed...

 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
MesaRat Enthusiast

MesaRat

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update:  After a long wait and the dealership going back and forth with GM, they have decided to completely replace the bed.  It should arrive in 3 weeks.

 

I suggest anyone considering a ladder rack or other accessory that attaches to the bed rails to be very careful and try not to drive the truck on rough or bumpy roads.

 

I looked at one of our subcontractor's 90s Toyota and the bed metal is significantly thicker - makes me jealous.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...