Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 hours ago, Arkangel said:

 

Did you have to send your original one back to them? I havent tossed the box yet in case I do.
 

I have to apply more than a small amount of pressure to overcome the gap, when I tried it resulted in stress on the panel closest to the cab, the rubber joint, and the mounting plate attached to the rails and hardware 
 

I think this will eventually lead to premature failure at one of those points. If it was designed to function this way Bakflip would have said so, but they are acknowledging the fact that it is not functioning as intended which is why they are warrantying it.

 

I have not been able to find any information on a Bakflip that does not touch the cab when folded from any other truck including Ford/Dodge/Toyota etc. If the next one doesn't solve the problem then I think Ill be going with a different cover.

No, they told me to throw it away, so thats what I did.

Posted

I'm not sure I would want it to touch the cab as long as the camera is clear. I've made a 12 hour drive with the cover folded up without any issues. The arms kept it locked in place without rubbing the cab which is fine with me. As mentioned, I can make it touch, but I'm just not sure why I would want to. 

Posted
9 hours ago, sdelam said:

I'm not sure I would want it to touch the cab as long as the camera is clear. I've made a 12 hour drive with the cover folded up without any issues. The arms kept it locked in place without rubbing the cab which is fine with me. As mentioned, I can make it touch, but I'm just not sure why I would want to. 

To each his own I guess, this is my 3rd Bakflip, the others rested on the cab without having to apply a single ounce of pressure. A bunch of guys have them at work and theirs all touch, thats what they were designed to do, I think if it doesn't and it just bounces around on the “living hinge” something is going to fail prematurely. 
 

If it wasnt a problem I dont think Bakflip would be replacing it before I could even ask for a replacement ??‍♂️

 

I’ll update when I get the new one.

Posted
19 hours ago, gSwift said:

No, they told me to throw it away, so thats what I did.

Mine was missing a seal and piece of foam and it leaked like a sieve. I called them and had to send pictures, etc to them. The rep was very understanding and helpful. Once I sent pictures of my cover after I beat it with a ball peen hammer, they sent me an entire new assembly. The new cover has been great, and no, it doesn't rest completely on the cab, regardless of how far up I adjust the rails or cover, but it works well. I can force it onto the cab and lock down the bars, but normally I just fold it 3 times and use the strap when towing the 5th wheel.

Posted
33 minutes ago, ShotgunZ71 said:

Mine was missing a seal and piece of foam and it leaked like a sieve. I called them and had to send pictures, etc to them. The rep was very understanding and helpful. Once I sent pictures of my cover after I beat it with a ball peen hammer, they sent me an entire new assembly. The new cover has been great, and no, it doesn't rest completely on the cab, regardless of how far up I adjust the rails or cover, but it works well. I can force it onto the cab and lock down the bars, but normally I just fold it 3 times and use the strap when towing the 5th wheel.

Thanks for the update!

Posted
Mine was missing a seal and piece of foam and it leaked like a sieve. I called them and had to send pictures, etc to them. The rep was very understanding and helpful. Once I sent pictures of my cover after I beat it with a ball peen hammer, they sent me an entire new assembly. The new cover has been great, and no, it doesn't rest completely on the cab, regardless of how far up I adjust the rails or cover, but it works well. I can force it onto the cab and lock down the bars, but normally I just fold it 3 times and use the strap when towing the 5th wheel.

I’m picking up an AT4HD next week and looking at the MX4. Are you saying you don’t have to fold the cover all the way upright when pulling your 5th wheel? If so, that’s great to hear as I was wondering about that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 hour ago, nolejag15 said:


I’m picking up an AT4HD next week and looking at the MX4. Are you saying you don’t have to fold the cover all the way upright when pulling your 5th wheel? If so, that’s great to hear as I was wondering about that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Correct. I just fold the 3 rear panels onto the 4th (front) panel and strap it in place and go. It works great and you still have a little bit of covered area in the bed if you need it.

  • Like 1
Posted
Correct. I just fold the 3 rear panels onto the 4th (front) panel and strap it in place and go. It works great and you still have a little bit of covered area in the bed if you need it.

You have the standard size bed? Just want to make sure since the MX4 cover has 3 panels so folding it twice would give 2/3 of the bed space.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)
30 minutes ago, nolejag15 said:


You have the standard size bed? Just want to make sure since the MX4 cover has 3 panels so folding it twice would give 2/3 of the bed space.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MX4 has 4 panels for the standard HD bed

AB0DB7B0-7928-4F86-9091-581C5D9E866C.jpeg

Edited by Arkangel
Posted
35 minutes ago, nolejag15 said:


You have the standard size bed? Just want to make sure since the MX4 cover has 3 panels so folding it twice would give 2/3 of the bed space.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. I have the standard 6’9” bed. The MX4 I have has 4 full panels and a stationary, smaller panel at the bulkhead. The way I usually run it when towing, gives me about 75% open bed space.

Posted
MX4 has 4 panels for the standard HD bed
AB0DB7B0-7928-4F86-9091-581C5D9E866C.thumb.jpeg.1b884d47040fb261a4ce48fada2efaf6.jpeg

Thank you for the sending the picture. I wasn’t aware the HD standard bed has 4 panels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Yes. I have the standard 6’9” bed. The MX4 I have has 4 full panels and a stationary, smaller panel at the bulkhead. The way I usually run it when towing, gives me about 75% open bed space.

Thank you for clarifying that. Appreciate it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)

Thought Id post this if anyone is interested

 

Here is a video of the added stress on the rail and mounting bracket when you force the cover to the cab. You can see it pulling the bracket up and causing rotational force on the rail.


The more I do it in the video the less it seems to flex, not sure if related  but after 2 days of rain and a wash this morning, this cover seems to leak more than the last one I had on my 1500
 

https://imgur.com/a/pagUL9E

 

Edited by Arkangel
Posted
7 hours ago, Arkangel said:

Thought Id post this if anyone is interested

 

Here is a video of the added stress on the rail and mounting bracket when you force the cover to the cab. You can see it pulling the bracket up and causing rotational force on the rail.


The more I do it in the video the less it seems to flex, not sure if related  but after 2 days of rain and a wash this morning, this cover seems to leak more than the last one I had on my 1500
 

https://imgur.com/a/pagUL9E

 

Is that with your warranty replacement cover or the original?

Posted
30 minutes ago, gSwift said:

Is that with your warranty replacement cover or the original?

Original, replacement hasn't shipped yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...