Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I live about 25 miles from a major metropolitan area and all other radios either in a car, battery operated, or stereo have no problems picking up strong radio signals.  In my 2020 Silverado HD with the Bose audio system I have poor reception of stations I typically listen to.  Using the HD Radio seems to be worse where the station will cut out for 10 or more seconds, the alternate selections for HD Radio won't come in at all.  Turning off the HD Radio function seems to help a little bit but I'll still loose the signal for 5 seconds or more.

I've never had this problem with other car radios traveling near my home but this truck drops the stations regularly. 

Has anyone else noticed this, if so, is there a fix?  Thinking a new antenna may help but wanted to see if there was anyone else with this issue.

 

Thanks,

Shimmy

 

Posted

The radio antenna on my 2020 2500HD is shorter than the one on my 2008 2500HD and I think that's the problem.  25 miles is a long way for FM signals that are line of sight transmissions.  Shorter antennas are less efficient and aren't going to pick up a strong signal when the distance to the transmitter is near the reception limit.  I have a 2019 Ford F150 with a longer antenna and it does significantly better receiving distant signals.  It does, however, scrape my garage door when passing under it - the Chevy does not.  It's a kind of trade-off.

Posted
On 8/28/2020 at 4:27 PM, unit said:

The radio antenna on my 2020 2500HD is shorter than the one on my 2008 2500HD and I think that's the problem.  25 miles is a long way for FM signals that are line of sight transmissions.  Shorter antennas are less efficient and aren't going to pick up a strong signal when the distance to the transmitter is near the reception limit.  I have a 2019 Ford F150 with a longer antenna and it does significantly better receiving distant signals.  It does, however, scrape my garage door when passing under it - the Chevy does not.  It's a kind of trade-off.

Thanks, a replacement antenna is a pretty inexpensive test.  I'll report back

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I tried using the antenna from my 2002 truck that is around 6" longer with no real change in reception.  The 02 truck has no problems pulling in the same signals/stations that the 2020 has problems with.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Of course refrain from political debate but I myself have very dismal hope for what is all going on up here every where we turn so I nodded my head when I saw this joke.     
    • I'm looking at carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand and lumbar fusion. 
    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...