Jump to content

Ride Quality Help

Grey Jay
 Share

Recommended Posts

Grey Jay Enthusiast

Grey Jay

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, I can't take it any more.  I have had trucks all of my life...mostly Japanese models.  I am in a 2019 sierra elevation right now.

 

This is my first GM since 2006 and it is so bouncy it is driving me crazy.  The roads where I live are crappy and the truck wants to bouncy me into the roof over every bump. An is un-controlable when I take a corner with bumps.  My old trucks never rode like this.  I have had it for a year and will probably keep it for another two, till the waranty is up.

 

I used to always run bilstien shocks in my trucks.  Have people switched out their ranchos for other shocks? Does it help?

 

I am honestly thinking of getting rid of this truck but there are things I do like about it so I will keep it if I can fix the ride issue.

 

Please help!!!

Maven Enthusiast

Maven

Posted
Posted

I would hope people chime in, but I know there are guys who have switched to bilsteins. I'm considering it myself.  Truck wags side to side too much over uneven roads.

Vigilante375 Enthusiast

Vigilante375

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Grey Jay said:

Hi guys, I can't take it any more.  I have had trucks all of my life...mostly Japanese models.  I am in a 2019 sierra elevation right now.

 

This is my first GM since 2006 and it is so bouncy it is driving me crazy.  The roads where I live are crappy and the truck wants to bouncy me into the roof over every bump. An is un-controlable when I take a corner with bumps.  My old trucks never rode like this.  I have had it for a year and will probably keep it for another two, till the waranty is up.

 

I used to always run bilstien shocks in my trucks.  Have people switched out their ranchos for other shocks? Does it help?

 

I am honestly thinking of getting rid of this truck but there are things I do like about it so I will keep it if I can fix the ride issue.

 

Please help!!!

 

31 minutes ago, Maven said:

I would hope people chime in, but I know there are guys who have switched to bilsteins. I'm considering it myself.  Truck wags side to side too much over uneven roads.

There is a thread in the mod section about the bilstein 5100s. Go read it. 

 

I just swapped my rear shocks last week and it made a very noticeable difference. In a very good way.

 

If you want a much better ride, get front and rear bilstein 5100s. Im happy with just the rear being done. 

 

I swapped my rear shocks in about 15 minutes, no jacks required. Just 21 mm socket and wrench. 

 

The fronts are a bit more time consuming. 

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

Going around a corner at speed with bumps on a vehicle with a rear sway bar is going to act different on a vehicle without a rear sway bar.

 

It's why I mentioned it. Just something to think about.

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Grey Jay said:

Hi guys, I can't take it any more.  I have had trucks all of my life...mostly Japanese models.  I am in a 2019 sierra elevation right now.

 

This is my first GM since 2006 and it is so bouncy it is driving me crazy.  The roads where I live are crappy and the truck wants to bouncy me into the roof over every bump. An is un-controlable when I take a corner with bumps.  My old trucks never rode like this.  I have had it for a year and will probably keep it for another two, till the waranty is up.

 

I used to always run bilstien shocks in my trucks.  Have people switched out their ranchos for other shocks? Does it help?

 

I am honestly thinking of getting rid of this truck but there are things I do like about it so I will keep it if I can fix the ride issue.

 

Please help!!!

So, I am not trying to start a fight or sound condescending, but you have a truck that is designed to tow, guessing around 10,000 pounds, and haul in the bed around a 1000 pounds.

 

How do you think a Corvette, or a high end luxury sedan would ride comfort wise if they had the same capabilities?  

 

Look at the diesel wars between the brands, HP, torque numbers are getting out of hand compared to just 20 years ago, and look what they they say you can tow and haul, look at the numbers your truck can do compared to the Japanese trucks your are referencing, and the weight of the trucks.

 

The suspension has to be stiffer with each run to achieve the numbers consumers want on towing and loads in the bed.

 

Go drive the competition, see how they ride (similar models) and see how they feel, then make the best choice for you.

Vigilante375 Enthusiast

Vigilante375

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, CamGTP said:

Going around a corner at speed with bumps on a vehicle with a rear sway bar is going to act different on a vehicle without a rear sway bar.

 

It's why I mentioned it. Just something to think about.

A sway bar helps with cornering and helps keep the vehicle from rolling as much. It does nothing to help when you're taking a corner while running over bumps. 

 

All trucks suck at keeping the rear end under control when going over bumps and taking a turn.

Vigilante375 Enthusiast

Vigilante375

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

So, I am not trying to start a fight or sound condescending, but you have a truck that is designed to tow, guessing around 10,000 pounds, and haul in the bed around a 1000 pounds.

 

How do you think a Corvette, or a high end luxury sedan would ride comfort wise if they had the same capabilities?  

 

Look at the diesel wars between the brands, HP, torque numbers are getting out of hand compared to just 20 years ago, and look what they they say you can tow and haul, look at the numbers your truck can do compared to the Japanese trucks your are referencing, and the weight of the trucks.

 

The suspension has to be stiffer with each run to achieve the numbers consumers want on towing and loads in the bed.

 

Go drive the competition, see how they ride (similar models) and see how they feel, then make the best choice for you.

These trucks have soft suspensions. Not firm, which is we what we want. 

 

If our trucks were made for towing then we'd have a firmer setup. Yes I know there is a max tow package but even that has a soft setup. 

 

GM can say all they want about how much these trucks can tow but they chose the wrong shocks to state this. 

 

Even driving off road as much as I do. These shocks are complete garbage. My rear end feels way more planted with the bilstein 5100s on the rear. 

  • Like 1
JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Vigilante375 said:

My rear end feels way more planted with the bilstein 5100s on the rear. 

Maybe share that info with the OP, he is the one looking for good suggestions.

Weaverstreet Enthusiast

Weaverstreet

Posted
Posted

Stock shocks are way too soft especially with heavy tires on the truck. I have Eibach E60-23-032-01-10 in front set to mid- lift setting with 2 inch leveling kit for about 3-1/4 inch front lift. These are not soft shocks, but handle the larger heavier tires beautifully. I have the Rancho RS999198 adjustables on the rear and  I played around with them while unloaded, while towing our jet skis and on Home Depot runs. Set to 1 is too soft especially with heavier 62 pound 10 ply tires so 2 or 3 really the minimum. Set to 8 pr 9 makes them ride like rocks empty but nice with 1000 pounds in the back. 5 in is a nice compromise so I don't have to crawl under and change the settings and is where I now just leave them. I have 2 inch blocks on the rear so I added extensions to cover that. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 491 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...