George Turner Posted October 27, 2020 Posted October 27, 2020 Ok, guys, had to replace a fuel pump on myb truck. Got the locking ring off, pulled the old pump and dropped in the new - no problem. But now I can't get the locking ring to go back on. Part of the problem is that the stock fuel pump had a thin steel rim, while the new one is plastic and thicker. Not sure how to get that ring back on, as I've pounded on it and am getting nothing but some fresh gouges in the metal. Any assistance is appreciated.
CamGTP Posted October 27, 2020 Posted October 27, 2020 You didn't double o-ring it did you?? I've heard of that before. And those new fuel pump tank o-rings always stick up higher too. I've re-used the old o-ring that sits better in the hole. 1
George Turner Posted October 27, 2020 Author Posted October 27, 2020 CamGTP thanks for jumping on this so quickly, I didn't double up the o-ring, no. The old one is a bit cracked; would that be safe to reuse? I've considered shaving down some of the plastic rim. I know that'll void the warranty, but really don't care at this point.
MN2Sailor Posted October 27, 2020 Posted October 27, 2020 Hello, hope by now you have figured it out. Have you tried using the stock ring? is their anyway you have open the bracket holding the ring down? Once you open it enough you can secure it by hammering it back down 1
newdude Posted October 27, 2020 Posted October 27, 2020 Not trying to insult, but is it the right pump? Any part #s on the top of the plastic that you can post here? Could be a boxed wrong part and if its too tall and won't compress enough down in the tank to install the ring. 1
George Turner Posted October 27, 2020 Author Posted October 27, 2020 MN2Sailor, now that's an idea. I'll have to see if there's some way to seal-off the fuel tank so I don't ignite it with an accidental spark, but I'm game to try. Thank you.
George Turner Posted October 27, 2020 Author Posted October 27, 2020 Newdude, good question. I'll grab some photos and post them. I picked it up at Autozone, and we all know they never make mistakes . . . 1
MN2Sailor Posted October 27, 2020 Posted October 27, 2020 Try a brass hammer if you have one. They don’t spark. In the Navy since I was on a Minesweeper, we used brass tools for the specific reason of them sparking. Just an idea
CapitalTruck Posted November 9, 2020 Posted November 9, 2020 (edited) If you have to, return the part and get an OEM metal topped one. I can’t tell you the run of aftermarket parts I’ve dealt with recently that ALMOST fit and then I use OEM and it fits perfectly. NAPA powersteering lines are the latest example on my silverado. I couldnt figure out why I couldnt get them to stop leaking at the rack. Said screw it and bought OEM, no leaks at all. A beck/arnley trans filter 3 weeks ago on my moms Highlander is most recent. It finally fit, but didnt click in as nice as OEM. Edited November 9, 2020 by CapitalTruck
riverbanks Posted November 9, 2020 Posted November 9, 2020 It's getting worse,once a week in my shop, something ain't what it's supposed to be,all on my time,then,the other day,I open a can of tuna for lunch,gotta hit the pet bowls,doing the squeezing, the lid went way to far to the bottom,is this the new norm?,so the can is half empty,ugh
CapitalTruck Posted November 11, 2020 Posted November 11, 2020 As a driveway guy it really sucks to be putting in a part and have the thing just not quite right. I seriously go OEM like 99% of time now, its worth a little extra $. The plus with GM is having good access to OEM parts. Might as well take advantage of it. The power steering line thing for me was the last straw. I was beating myself up trying to figure what I did wrong.
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