Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Holy cow that’s a mess. It’s been nothing but rain where I am. As far as I know SC and FL are the only states who haven’t gotten snow. Y’all stay safe out there! And x2 on what y’all’s systems look like in the cargo boxes. I’m surprised nobody has done one to accommodate for the trucks with them. Small loss I suppose but it would be neat to have the cargo space AND the sub. I wouldn’t be against buying another cargo box to cut it up and add a sub inside of it, honestly would be pretty cool. 

Posted

I like the idea of half storage/half sub. Interested in how that turns out. Hopefully you can find a used center console box and save some money, try posting some add’s and see if someone has one. Lots of people are moving onto the newer models so you never know. If you’re around a $1000 i would just look into replacing the stock speakers and add a sub. If you buy from crutchfield they will include all speaker adapters and wiring harnesses for free with purchase of the speakers. I know the audiofrog gs25’s fit the dash location perfectly with no modifications and you can do 6x9 or 6.5 in the door with the provided bracket.

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, dieselfan1 said:

Where you at?

 

Northeast Kentucky. It's a mess. Trees down. Electric down. Water storage tanks empty because pumps require electric. Whole town 30 miles from here lost power when sub station went out.
 

Edited by jscottl
Posted
5 hours ago, Chris1985 said:

I like the idea of half storage/half sub. Interested in how that turns out. Hopefully you can find a used center console box and save some money, try posting some add’s and see if someone has one. Lots of people are moving onto the newer models so you never know. If you’re around a $1000 i would just look into replacing the stock speakers and add a sub. If you buy from crutchfield they will include all speaker adapters and wiring harnesses for free with purchase of the speakers. I know the audiofrog gs25’s fit the dash location perfectly with no modifications and you can do 6x9 or 6.5 in the door with the provided bracket.

I thought that the factory harness for the dash speakers had to be cut for new ones? Do the audio frogs plug and play? Or is there an aftermarket harness out there somewhere that mates to the factory harness that plugs into the dash speaker? If so, I must’ve missed them! 
 

 

Posted

I don’t believe there are any available harnesses for the dash speakers but you can cut the stock wires and add m and f insulated plugs so polarity can’t get reversed or use these https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Replace-Battery-Builder-Hobbyist/dp/B081MQNGR1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=xt60+connector&qid=1613882671&sprefix=xt6&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExOUVHMVY1RzM3NkJEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODQ5NTc4MlUwMEFWRE1HWFZaWSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjA0MTg2MVRaNkJDUk43SEM5RCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
 

quick disconnects and easily switch back to stock speakers, these do need to be soldered in though. 

Posted

I'm still somewhat confused, would changing the dash speakers mess with the door chimes? - i.e change the volume of them or not be present at all? I assume the chimes sound from those? Or would they not change because the headunit isn't being changed?

Posted

If you change head units, you need an adapter for the chimes. What happens is they are way too loud. I think the phone volume is affected too.

The dash speakers have a oddball connector that Crutchfield don't have an adapter for. I just cut the wires and spliced them to the new speakers.

They have adapters for the door speakers.

On my setup everything works just like stock and it was all plug and play except for the dash speakers that I had to splice the wires. Easy .

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Since we're on the topic of audio here, I'm going to chime in. I'm going through this myself right now (again). Can't remember how long ago it was but I swapped out my door speakers for what I thought would be better but it sounds like garbage and I think my HU already blew one of my tweeters. Some good info in this thread, now I didn't realize that signal mix sends more to the tweeter from the Bose digital processor but I have the non-Bose setup. Does the HU still do this or is it strictly from the digital processor in the Bose setup?

 

I've seen in a couple of different threads there is an amp I can add to clean up the signal to the door speakers. I feel like they need more power to clean up, maybe they're clipping from the HU. So now I can't decide if I want to try and clean up what I have now or go straight to pulling everything out and doing a proper cross over setup...then an 8" or 10" sub somewhere for proper bass.

 

I like the factory Kicker setup GM offers. I also like the idea of going custom and getting a separate amp rack built just for the sub and install another one just for the speakers. Do they make a-pillars that already have the tweeter pods in them or is everyone making those themselves? I don't have the resources to do that myself but would like to get my tweeters out of the dash and freed up. It's a tight space and the wires I had to splice are junk wiring too (not the wiring I used, talking about the stock wiring).

Edited by xSHIFTxNASTYx
  • Like 1
Posted

Ahh I see. I guess I gotta do what I gotta do and snip the wires. It'd certainly be nice to see someone who made these. I think there was an Alpine kit that had plug and play dash speakers but it has since been discontinued. It also costs a fortune. As far as Shift's situation goes, I guess it depends on what you've got in there now and if you can justify it enough to tear it all out and start over again. I'd probably be the last person to ask about the sound systems on these trucks but I'm also looking to do this myself. I just want to have all of my ducks in a row before I start tearing into a virgin sound system that I've never messed with before. Indeed though, I am certainly learning a lot!

  • 8 months later...
Posted
On 2/18/2021 at 6:31 PM, Chris1985 said:

 

I am currently gathering all the equipment to start a build on my 17 denali W/Bose so i cant speak to much about the install side of things from my experience yet but i have talked to a couple who have done a number of these trucks. Did you have a budget in mind to start with?

 

As far as keeping the stock HU you can use that nav-tv which is nice but like stated expensive, I haven't talked to anyone who has used the llj harness but it looks good to, I will probably end up ordering my amp rack from them and modifying it to fit. They also sell speaker adapters and a couple other things for these trucks. I will be using the pac ap4gm61 to get optical from the head unit but you can also use rca depending on your set-up. It's about half the price of the nav tv and seems to have all the same features.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541AP4GM61/PAC-AmpPRO-AP4-GM61-Aftermarket-Amplifier-Interface.html

 

Pac also makes a harness that plugs straight into the bose amp and if you decide to go with a sep amp you don't have to run any new wire. As long as the new speakers are going in the same locations. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541APHGM02/PAC-APH-GM02-AmpPro-Speaker-Connection-Harness.html

 

I got a mti box for my truck with 2 JL 13tw5's - they make a bunch of different options depending on your budget and how much bass you want.  They aren't cheap but very well built and can be customized to whatever you want.  https://mtiacoustics.com/ 

 

If you search around you can find a basic prefab box for around $200 depending on the configuration. Ive also talked to a couple people who have done the jl center console box and they have been really happy with them but like anything else could have some rattles that you might have to chase out. The kicker seems like a good option to..

 

I will be going active 3 way up front with audio frog gb10 in the a pillars, gb25 in the stock dash location and gb60's in the doors. You don't have to get that crazy, many companies make wide band speakers that could be better replacements for the 2.75 in the dash and then just upgrade the doors. Audiofrog makes a gs series as well that is made to integrate into stock locations easily, focal has a integration series as well that could run off the bose amp and still be a nice upgrade. 

 

I don't think any of this is hard as you think and based on what you have already done to your truck you should be able to handle this but if you feel overwhelmed you could always take it to a local shop. Either way it's not a bad idea to get a quote from a couple places and see/hear some stuff in person anyway. 

 

Here's a couple pictures of my box and pillars. Now i just need winter to get over so i can start already!!

 

 

IMG_5359(1).jpg

IMG_5599.jpg

IMG_5355.jpg

IMG_5602.jpg

Really like the look of those pillars, did you dab or buy those like that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,623 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...