Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2014 GMC Sierra Z71 SLT.  I put Bilstein 6112 up front and 5100 in the rear.  I also gave the girl some new new shoes.  Nothing crazy just some Copper Discovery AT4s and I went from 275 55 20 to 275 60 20.  My question is...  I need some new UCA's. Mine are going and I am having a heck of time figuring out what will fit with my set-up.  

 

I am 80% highway and 20% offroad.  When I am off road I am in the backcountry in the mountains of CO.  I need some articulation to go from point A to point B, but I am not going wheeling as a pastime.  I worry that the stock UCA's might be an issue with the level even though it is only 1.8", but I can not fit any of the quality aftermarket ones that will fit my set up.  I don't need new wheels, or any of that.  It is not a cosmetic thing for me.  Just wanted a better suspension and more clearance.

 

Any Suggestions????  I thought for sure the Cognito UCA's would work, but they say they won't clear because I increase the tire size.

 

Also..  sorry for my ignorance on this subject.  I am no the guy that will spend all my time doing mods to my truck.  I just want it to get me where I need to go and would like some advice on how to make that happen.

 

JonnyB

Posted

At 1.8" you will be fine with the stock UCAs, but if you want a piece of mind, Camburg UCAs works for 1-3" of lift and are of very good quality. I know many UCAs say it's only for X.XX lift, but there is min and max range that the UCAs would fit. 1.8" should fall well with them. 

 

The well known aftermarket UCAs will rub on the tire if you run factory 20" wheels. I just installed readylift with UCAs and with stock tire size (275-55-20) it did not rub on the driver side but slightly on the passenger side. After swapping to to 275-60-20s, it rubs on both sides. Just enough to smudge some paint. The factory wheels have too much positive offset (+27 I think) for the UCAs. you can run wheel spacers (0.5" is all you need) or go with a 0 offset wheel. I'm iffy on using wheel spacers so I just keep the stock wheels and try not to go full lock on my turns. 

 

If you do the install yourself, make sure you get/rent a pickle fork/ball joint separator tool. 

 

 

Posted

Thanks for the info.  I have a little time to think on it... I have no interest in spacers, and there is nothing wrong with my wheels so need to replace.

 

Posted (edited)

My reply on a topic of this same nature from another thread:
" I had a 2" front level and I was running 33x12.5x18s with the stock UCAs and getting the rubbing on the UCA,
Stock wheels.
I had a Motofab UCA installed with a 3" front level (and a 1.5" body lift), the rubbing was almost non-existent - maybe a bit on total full lock.
I, now, have 35x12.5x18s and same - no rubbing except on total full lock.
Still with stock wheels.
YMMV, I suppose? "

Edited by MikeBMW
Spelling
Posted

OK..  Another question for all of you that undoubtedly no more than I do.  Looks like finding a beefier UCA that does not rub with my set-up could be like finding a unicorn...  What about Mevotech UCA.  They seem to be closer to the stock ones, but a bit more durable.  Any thoughts, opr experience with these??

 

JonnyB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Having bumper and other body damages can be very frustrating, especially as a result of a parking lot collision/bump. Our team wants to learn more about the damages to your truck so we can look into ways we might be able to help. When you get the chance, please fill out our support form with more details: https://s.gmc.com/support-request . A member of our team will follow up with you as soon as next available. We want to get you enjoying your truck to the fullest again. 
    • Did you even read this article?   Even the title of the article says "U.S.-Iran Deal Doesn’t Mean a Swift Return of Oil and Gas Flows"   Remember, crude oil prices are based on FUTURE purchases by the oil companies.  Gas prices are based on FUTURE purchases by the station.  This article stated that many of the oil producing nations have to restart their processes to get the oil produced.  Then the oil has to be shipped to wherever.  And it doesn't get there overnight.  And most of that oil is not coming here. Check out this site:  https://afdc.energy.gov/data/10621   A graph will pop up to show where the US imports their oil from.  Notice that there isn't a lot of import from OPEC and Iraq.  Most of the US import comes from Canada. The US oil produces are selling their oil on the open market, which is why the US fuel costs went up.  So you're correct, the US oil companies are going to slow walk the price downward.
    • Having codes and an engine light with no hints on what might be causing it is nothing short of frustrating. How long have these concerns been present? We want to know more so we can look into ways we might be able to help you. When you get the chance, please fill out our support form with additional details on your experience so far. A member of our team will follow up with you as soon as next available: https://s.gmc.com/support-request 
    • Knowing the life of your brakes is a highly important status to keep track of. If you suspect your brake sensors need attention, please fill out our support form with additional details on your experience. When did you last take it in for inspection? Our team will follow up with next steps as soon as next available. Please include your username and GM Trucks Forum in the form as well. Support Form: https://s.chevy.com/support-request 
    • I just purchased a 2004 Tahoe with 148,******. I used to have a 2006 Suburban that had the push button Auto 4X, 2Hi, 4Hi and 4Lo. When checking out this truck I noticed it had push button but didn’t focus on it. After the purchase when driving home, this is when I noticed it was different and after a little research found out it has the AWD stabilitrak system. I don’t live in an area that requires AWD. I bought the truck to start a new adventure in life with off roading, now that the kids are all grown up. I purchased the truck knowing it didn’t have the G80 rearend but plan on re-gearing to drive on 33s or 35s and upgrade with a rear locker and still be able to tow when needed. Blah Blah Blah Anyway I know am thinking about converting the stabilitrak  to Z71. I know I will have to replace the transfer case. So now the information gathering stage is happening to see if it is worth it. Is the front AWD stabilitrak differential different when compared to a non-AWD front diff? Will I need a completely different front differential or can it be converted? What else should I be considering? I did see something in a video for GMT900 platform with removing the ABS fuse that disables the stabilitrak and turns the truck into a 2 wheel drive. Would that work in the GMT800 platform?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...